2010 Carrera S Manuel 3500 Miles

Black leather
Self dimming mirrors
Heated front seats
Dynamic cornering lights
Navigation for PCM
Bluetooth
Bose Sound
XM radio
Sport Chrono Pkg
Universal audio interface

CPO warranty good till 2016.

83k. Good deal? Also, what do you think this will sell for in two years. Tough question i know because the 991 is coming out.

 

A good deal for the dealer.

 

Go to porsche.com and run a pre-owned search. There are about 40 2010 C2S's for sale by dealers. Focus on the ones that are CPO, manual, that have similar miles as yours, etc., then ask the dealers what the sticker prices were on those. Compare it to yours and you'll know whether it's a good price or not. If it's not a good price, you'll then have leverage to negotiate it down.

 

Its not that easy. Im on their site it only lets you search nearby dealers and dealers near me dont many in inventory. Instead i used auto trader and cars and searched the whole nation. i found most 2009s similar to mine are listed at avg of 75k and 2008s prob avg 69k. They also dont have such a long warranty. Curious as to what other peoples opinions are when they first read the deal.

 

I would get stick and make sure its Min 25 off of sticker price.
there is a few dealers with some new 2010 out there that will take 22,500 off the new one.
my opinion anything less then 25k is not that hot.search cpo also
http://ucl.porsche.de/ucl/plsql/usa/...3RQNVT&styp_=s

 

25% off sticker? seems really high. ive been calling around and it seems the best i can do is 10%

 

according to kelly blue book its worth 91k. dunno how much weight should be put into that

 

Below is a process I have used many times successfully to negotiate a mutually fair price or at least educate me to what I believe to be a fair price.

Go to Consumer Reports website and rebuild your subject car as a new car with their 2010 pricing (assume they have not removed all their 2010 new car info by now), using the options you have. When finished you will have values for both list and invoice pricing. Next start to deduct for depreciation, mileage, condition, etc. The biggest hit will be depreciation, you will have essentially two years worth - 2010 and 2011 since once you buy it you will have an instantly depreciated asset. Run your numbers and compare to what the dealer is asking. Having both list and invoice will give you a sense of what the dealrs profit margin could be (there are others factors like year end cash incentives to dealers from the factory but you could probably ignore this).

I'd also open up your Porsche.com pre-owned search and do not use any location constraints. Find as many cars similar to yours and see what the "selling" market is saying (you may need to make some geographical corrections as CA and FL may have a market premium compared to GA). Now you have another number to compare with your dealer quote. You also have the data to make a reasonable counter offer if you find the dealer number is too high.

This is only one of many ways to educate yourself, and I think what many folks are saying on this post is that there is a lot of info available to you ... use it to be better informed as dealers count on making their money from those who are not informed. Good luck.

 

Yep .. search of 2010 cars shows a lot of cars asking 89-95K .

My opinion .. buy a new car at those prices . I've been saying for a long time that if a dealership has a 2010 car wish them well with THEIR car .
They will never sell it close to what its really worth and as long as one is ready to overpay he may as well at least buy himself a new car where someone else didn't pick his nose in it for 3500 miles . Just my opinion.

 

halperin,

I just went through this and have been searching all over for a 997.2S. Most dealers I've tried to deal with are willing to go as low as $75K for an 09 but are mainly strippers (i.e. no nav, ipod, non-CPO, etc). On various Internet sites, 2010s are listed for around $85K. My car is very similar and the difference is that my car has 500 more miles than the car you're looking at. You should be able to get it for around $80-81K and then ask for deals on the add-ons such as tire warranty, clearbra, and lo-jack if you are interested in those items. I searched for months and have lost out on the vehicles I wanted in trying to haggle for the extra $$ off. There are people willing to overpay. It takes a little bit of luck finding the right car and then having the right dealer willing to make a deal on that car. I also agree that 89-95K on a 2010 is too much. I've called a few dealers around the country and some are willing to deal brand new 2011 cars for at least 95K. If that's the car you really want and can afford it, you should go for it. When you drive this car and see it in your garage, you are not going to think about the extra couple of grand off that you could've gotten.

 

IMO
80-83 is a reasonable deal. MSRP is probably around 100k with the options listed. The car is depreciated 2 years (since 2012 Porsches are already out) so if you assume 10% depreciation per year it's about right. Personally, I'd opt for a lightly used car with CPO warranty, why not let someone take the hit in depreciation?? The only concern that I would have are these the options that you want??

WRT 991, I think it's way too early to say since no one knows if the changes will be well received or not...

 

This is a really good idea, in addition to some of the other suggestions I read. I would also add that you can actually see a summary of the prices people paid for NEW 2010's over the last 6 months (i.e. 2010 car sold in 2011) across the country on TrueCar.com. Let me know if you have trouble getting the data. If I recall correctly, the average price was about 1k below invoice. Invoice is about 11% or so below MSRP. So you should expect 11% off MSRP minus $1k (more or less) minus what you think the relative value of a used car with miles vs. a new car are worth. This is just one approach. But if your pricing is near what people paid for new 2010's is, then it's probably not a great deal. But like somebody else said, there might be people out there willing to overpay.

P.S. If you can calculate the MSRP and Invoice price and post it here, you'll probably get more specific answers re: whether or not XYZ price is good or not. You can only get a "ballpark" estimate without that information.

 

I will estimate based on how much my car was, that this car had a MSRP of 98k. My car had similar options except I have pdk and a few other things that added 5k of options to what this car has, and my car msrp was 103k.
So they are asking 15k below sticker which I see demo cars with less miles and more fully loaded being listed at my local dealers (which is totally depended on timing).
If it was me, and I really wanted the car, I would be happy getting it for 80 to 81k. Dont let someone else drive off in it for a few $$$ of extra savings.

 

This is great advice. It's of course important to do your homework and make sure the dealer's price is reasonable, but if you find what you like don't get hung up over 1 or 2k. While you are trying to beat up the dealer to save $1,000 someone may come along willing to pay more than you and then you've lost out on what you want. That said--if you don't feel right with the deal, there will always be a new one to come around. Do your homework and you'll know what's right. Good luck to the OP in your search!