DIY oil change for 2010 C2
#1
11-18-2011, 03:23 PM
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 19
Rep Power: 0 
DIY oil change for 2010 C2
I didn't see a post for DIY oil change of a 2010 C2 so I thought I would post my experience.
You will need 8 quarts of oil. I used mobil 1 5-40.
I got the filter kit from pelicanparts.com, which was cheaper than suncoast.
I drove the car backwards over some ramps and put an oil drain pan under the car.
I used a 6 mm allen key with a 2 foot pipe for some leverage and loosened the drain plug.
I unscrewed the drain plug and the oil drained - not too fast for the drain pan even though the oil was warm.
Don’t bother looking under the car for the filter housing as described in all the other DIYs (pre 2010 models I guess).
The filter housing is in the engine compartment on the right side. You could use a 36 mm socket but I just used an adjustable pliers like a plumber uses.
When you compare the old and new filter, the center hole in the new one is much smaller, just push it hard in the housing and the center hole will stretch.
Replace the rubber gasket on the filter housing cover and screw it down.
I opened the filler tube on top of the valve cover to release the suction.
Clean and replace the drain plug.
Fill up with 7 quarts, drive off ramps and warm up the engine.
Check the oil level.
I added another quart for a total of 8.
You will need 8 quarts of oil. I used mobil 1 5-40.
I got the filter kit from pelicanparts.com, which was cheaper than suncoast.
I drove the car backwards over some ramps and put an oil drain pan under the car.
I used a 6 mm allen key with a 2 foot pipe for some leverage and loosened the drain plug.
I unscrewed the drain plug and the oil drained - not too fast for the drain pan even though the oil was warm.
Don’t bother looking under the car for the filter housing as described in all the other DIYs (pre 2010 models I guess).
The filter housing is in the engine compartment on the right side. You could use a 36 mm socket but I just used an adjustable pliers like a plumber uses.
When you compare the old and new filter, the center hole in the new one is much smaller, just push it hard in the housing and the center hole will stretch.
Replace the rubber gasket on the filter housing cover and screw it down.
I opened the filler tube on top of the valve cover to release the suction.
Clean and replace the drain plug.
Fill up with 7 quarts, drive off ramps and warm up the engine.
Check the oil level.
I added another quart for a total of 8.
#4
01-31-2012, 08:21 PM
Great step by step jjlawyer.
Agreed! I did my at 1000 miles just to clear out the metal debris. Felt guilty I guess.
Anyone care to share their thoughts (pro and cons) on using a suction tube to extract the used oil instead of draining from bottom? I am planning to do this in between scheduled changes. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Anyone care to share their thoughts (pro and cons) on using a suction tube to extract the used oil instead of draining from bottom? I am planning to do this in between scheduled changes. Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
#5
01-31-2012, 08:36 PM
I didn't see a post for DIY oil change of a 2010 C2 so I thought I would post my experience.
You will need 8 quarts of oil. I used mobil 1 5-40.
I got the filter kit from pelicanparts.com, which was cheaper than suncoast.
I drove the car backwards over some ramps and put an oil drain pan under the car.
I used a 6 mm allen key with a 2 foot pipe for some leverage and loosened the drain plug.
I unscrewed the drain plug and the oil drained - not too fast for the drain pan even though the oil was warm.
Don’t bother looking under the car for the filter housing as described in all the other DIYs (pre 2010 models I guess).
The filter housing is in the engine compartment on the right side. You could use a 36 mm socket but I just used an adjustable pliers like a plumber uses.
When you compare the old and new filter, the center hole in the new one is much smaller, just push it hard in the housing and the center hole will stretch.
Replace the rubber gasket on the filter housing cover and screw it down.
I opened the filler tube on top of the valve cover to release the suction.
Clean and replace the drain plug.
Fill up with 7 quarts, drive off ramps and warm up the engine.
Check the oil level.
I added another quart for a total of 8.
You will need 8 quarts of oil. I used mobil 1 5-40.
I got the filter kit from pelicanparts.com, which was cheaper than suncoast.
I drove the car backwards over some ramps and put an oil drain pan under the car.
I used a 6 mm allen key with a 2 foot pipe for some leverage and loosened the drain plug.
I unscrewed the drain plug and the oil drained - not too fast for the drain pan even though the oil was warm.
Don’t bother looking under the car for the filter housing as described in all the other DIYs (pre 2010 models I guess).
The filter housing is in the engine compartment on the right side. You could use a 36 mm socket but I just used an adjustable pliers like a plumber uses.
When you compare the old and new filter, the center hole in the new one is much smaller, just push it hard in the housing and the center hole will stretch.
Replace the rubber gasket on the filter housing cover and screw it down.
I opened the filler tube on top of the valve cover to release the suction.
Clean and replace the drain plug.
Fill up with 7 quarts, drive off ramps and warm up the engine.
Check the oil level.
I added another quart for a total of 8.
#7
01-31-2012, 10:42 PM
I think that the filter and oil plug should have been torqued with a torque wrench at the proper spec.
The M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel is not an approved Porsche oil and it may have additives that are not proper for gas engines.
The M1 5W40 ESP is an approved oil but it has lower P/Zn.
The M1 5W50 may be a better bet, but the M1 0W40 (European Formula) still is an API SL rated oil and has 1000/1100 P/Zn.
See Mobil 1 list HERE.
The M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel is not an approved Porsche oil and it may have additives that are not proper for gas engines.
The M1 5W40 ESP is an approved oil but it has lower P/Zn.
The M1 5W50 may be a better bet, but the M1 0W40 (European Formula) still is an API SL rated oil and has 1000/1100 P/Zn.
See Mobil 1 list HERE.
Last edited by adias; 01-31-2012 at 10:53 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
02-01-2012, 04:35 AM
I think that the filter and oil plug should have been torqued with a torque wrench at the proper spec.
The M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel is not an approved Porsche oil and it may have additives that are not proper for gas engines.
The M1 5W40 ESP is an approved oil but it has lower P/Zn.
The M1 5W50 may be a better bet, but the M1 0W40 (European Formula) still is an API SL rated oil and has 1000/1100 P/Zn.
See Mobil 1 list HERE.
The M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel is not an approved Porsche oil and it may have additives that are not proper for gas engines.
The M1 5W40 ESP is an approved oil but it has lower P/Zn.
The M1 5W50 may be a better bet, but the M1 0W40 (European Formula) still is an API SL rated oil and has 1000/1100 P/Zn.
See Mobil 1 list HERE.
Drain plug 37lb/ft
Filter cap 19 lb/ft
#9
08-21-2012, 11:11 PM
crap - i did the filter cap at 37lb/ft! what damage (if any) is potentially caused? i'm going to retorque now...
#12
08-22-2012, 12:35 PM
just back off on it now. If you damaged it the cap would have cracked or stripped the threads. ( As they are only some type of plastic)
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...er-change.html
link if anyone needs pics on the oil change too.
Last edited by cerbomark; 08-22-2012 at 12:42 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
