DIY Oil Change on 997.1 step by step with pictures
#46
04-02-2012, 10:37 AM
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New jersey
Posts: 296
Rep Power: 24 
My answers in RED.
Did you pour some fresh oil into the filter housing before screwing it back on? My 9 quarts includes about 1/4 bottle of oil I had poured into the housing. I think some amount of oil is always in there and may not get incorporated into the dashboard reading???? (Just grabbing at straws here).
No, just empty filter housing
Also, was your oil warm or cold before you drained it? I drove my car before I changed the oil, and let it cool down just a little (so I wouldn't burn myself). I figured warm oil flows better. May be that made the difference? (Again, just grabbing at straws).
Cold, No difference (if it is cold it will take more time to drain)
Nevertheless, I'm sure 8.3 qt. is fine, if that is what your car is telling you it needs. But I understand your concern, since we all like to be very precise with these "hobby" cars.
always put less and check, later you can add if needed
No, just empty filter housing
Also, was your oil warm or cold before you drained it? I drove my car before I changed the oil, and let it cool down just a little (so I wouldn't burn myself). I figured warm oil flows better. May be that made the difference? (Again, just grabbing at straws).
Cold, No difference (if it is cold it will take more time to drain)
Nevertheless, I'm sure 8.3 qt. is fine, if that is what your car is telling you it needs. But I understand your concern, since we all like to be very precise with these "hobby" cars.
always put less and check, later you can add if needed
#49
04-10-2012, 12:09 PM
I think 997.2 filter is from the top, there is a black plastic octogon for which you might need a special wrench/cap, like on BMW 3s or Audi A4s or others
I will take pic tonight and post
#50
04-10-2012, 12:45 PM
So anonymous: who is negative?
#51
04-11-2012, 10:47 AM
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New jersey
Posts: 296
Rep Power: 24 use this filter tool to open it. -->
#53
04-11-2012, 12:40 PM
Has anyone used these products on their 997s?
This seems like a good way?
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks
Also, is this low enough clearance for those of us that still access it from the bottom?
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks
Also, is this low enough clearance for those of us that still access it from the bottom?
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks
#55
04-11-2012, 02:07 PM
Just a few things:
1) The engine should be slightly warm before you drain the oil. After driving your car for a few miles, wait so as not to get burning oil on your precious hands. Wear gloves and long sleeves. Warm oil flows better, faster and will not stay trapped in nooks and against cold parts.
2) I like to fill up the plastic canister with fresh oil, before re-installing it. It gives an extra supply of oil when the engine is cranked after loosing all its oil during the drain phase.
3) Always lubricate the round rubber gasket with your finger dipped in oil, before re-installing the canister.
4) I also believe the paper OEM filter is fine, as it has plenty of track records under its belt. You can always upgrade but in my opinion and unless you go all the way to metal filters, it does not make much difference. There will always be some oil that goes around the filter.
5) The magnetic plug is a good thing to check for metal shavings. Usually cost around $5.00 from Pelican parts.
6) I am against oil extractor: it is a nonsense. Oil must flow by the bottom and take with it all the sludge and debris. Do you insert a tube in your mouth when you want to hit the restroom? The same applies to a car.
7) Finally and mot importantly, the oil must be disposed of properly. Please, spare our planet and be a good Earth citizen.
Yves
1) The engine should be slightly warm before you drain the oil. After driving your car for a few miles, wait so as not to get burning oil on your precious hands. Wear gloves and long sleeves. Warm oil flows better, faster and will not stay trapped in nooks and against cold parts.
2) I like to fill up the plastic canister with fresh oil, before re-installing it. It gives an extra supply of oil when the engine is cranked after loosing all its oil during the drain phase.
3) Always lubricate the round rubber gasket with your finger dipped in oil, before re-installing the canister.
4) I also believe the paper OEM filter is fine, as it has plenty of track records under its belt. You can always upgrade but in my opinion and unless you go all the way to metal filters, it does not make much difference. There will always be some oil that goes around the filter.
5) The magnetic plug is a good thing to check for metal shavings. Usually cost around $5.00 from Pelican parts.
6) I am against oil extractor: it is a nonsense. Oil must flow by the bottom and take with it all the sludge and debris. Do you insert a tube in your mouth when you want to hit the restroom? The same applies to a car.
7) Finally and mot importantly, the oil must be disposed of properly. Please, spare our planet and be a good Earth citizen.
Yves
Last edited by yvesvidal; 04-11-2012 at 02:10 PM.
#56
05-03-2012, 11:26 AM
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New jersey
Posts: 296
Rep Power: 24
Update !!
i did my another oil change last week, and found the magenetic oil drain plug is Un-removable and looks like it made with soft aluminum and while removing its inner liners of the bolt is damaged and unable to unscrew it with hex bolt.
BTW, i used correct torque while tightening last time. Finally i used pliers to remove it. and put back my OEM one.
i will check with maxspeed on this for their explanation and update here.
i did my another oil change last week, and found the magenetic oil drain plug is Un-removable and looks like it made with soft aluminum and while removing its inner liners of the bolt is damaged and unable to unscrew it with hex bolt.
BTW, i used correct torque while tightening last time. Finally i used pliers to remove it. and put back my OEM one.
i will check with maxspeed on this for their explanation and update here.
#57
05-03-2012, 06:11 PM
I've used a fluid extractor for years on many cars and have had great success. I hear it is a factory recommended way to pull oil out of most modern Mercedes engines.
It was really nice on my old E36 BMW as I never had to get under the car at all. The dipstick tube and oil filter canister are both accessible from the top on those cars.
I don't think it will work though for the Porsche. Usually you put the suction tube down the dipstick pipe. The 997.1 and .2 don't have a dipstick pipe to access the oil pan. I don't think it will work. If anyone has used it, please let us know.
It was really nice on my old E36 BMW as I never had to get under the car at all. The dipstick tube and oil filter canister are both accessible from the top on those cars.
I don't think it will work though for the Porsche. Usually you put the suction tube down the dipstick pipe. The 997.1 and .2 don't have a dipstick pipe to access the oil pan. I don't think it will work. If anyone has used it, please let us know.
#59
08-24-2012, 08:32 AM
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: New jersey
Posts: 296
Rep Power: 24 if you like getting your hands dirty, you will enjoy doing this. good luck.
