2006 997S CAB - High Mileage purchase
2006 997S CAB - High Mileage purchase
Looking for insight - considering purchasing 2006 997S CAB with 91,600 on the clock. One owner detailed dealer service history. new clutch @ 54K; new F/R rotors and pads @ 73 and 64K; new water pump at 65K; new battery @ 75K; new tires F and R @ 83K. All goodies and options included - Black full Leather, Adaptive sport seats, Self-Dimming Mirrors, Heated Front Seats, Sport Chrono, NAV, Bose Prem Sound, 6-pack CD, Sport Shifter, Sport Exhaust - $39,995. Thoughts??
With those miles miles I'd say it's a buyers market regarding negotiating. I would offer $35k at most.
Did you get a PPI done by a reputable shop?
I just picked up a higher mileage Carrera S and one thing which didn't turn up in my checks was the suspension. After making the purchase I found out my rear shocks are toast. Definitely something I would add to the list for an independent shop to check before making a purchase.
Did you get a PPI done by a reputable shop?
I just picked up a higher mileage Carrera S and one thing which didn't turn up in my checks was the suspension. After making the purchase I found out my rear shocks are toast. Definitely something I would add to the list for an independent shop to check before making a purchase.
Having PPI done tomorrow. Definitely including DME report for engine hours and over revs. Thanks for tip on shocks. I'll make sure they include that as well. Price wise I thought the price point was decent at least according to KBB and NADA for a 06 997S CAB.
I paid less than that for mine, granted it's an 05 997S but with 30k lower miles and not as many options.
Here's my list to check:
- DME Report (Anything in range 5 = pass, range 4 should be low ie. bellow 100)
- Check water pump for leaks
- Check shocks for leaks & "bouncing" after going over bumps.
- Check for abnormal tire wear. In my case the left rear was worn way worse then the right rear. The culprit was either alignment or the blown shock which was leaking.
- Check all wear items primarily Clutch (travel & engagement), Master Cylinder (boot was torn on mine and needed replacement), brake pad thickness
- Ask for paint meter of car. This will rule out respray and or body work
- Check for RMS leaks etc.
Regarding pricing ignore KBB and NADA as they tend to be inflated. I'd reference Edmunds over those two.
Here's my list to check:
- DME Report (Anything in range 5 = pass, range 4 should be low ie. bellow 100)
- Check water pump for leaks
- Check shocks for leaks & "bouncing" after going over bumps.
- Check for abnormal tire wear. In my case the left rear was worn way worse then the right rear. The culprit was either alignment or the blown shock which was leaking.
- Check all wear items primarily Clutch (travel & engagement), Master Cylinder (boot was torn on mine and needed replacement), brake pad thickness
- Ask for paint meter of car. This will rule out respray and or body work
- Check for RMS leaks etc.
Regarding pricing ignore KBB and NADA as they tend to be inflated. I'd reference Edmunds over those two.
Last edited by spoddle; May 28, 2012 at 05:28 PM.
Unless you are prepared to work on the car yourself, remember the dealer and others charge just as much to fix an old Porsche as a new one. Worst case are you prepared to do an engine rebuild? $15 to $20 k?
Regarding the DME, I started this thread when I bought my car a year ago: dme-over-revs-ranges-3-4-5-reported-okl
Lots of good comments, lots said to run because I had a level 5 over rev. I've had it 10 months and put 6,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free. Do check the inner front tires for wear, these cars eat tires and my shredded through a set of fronts due to an alignment. It would be good to find a local Indy shop to do the PPI, so that you can walk through the car with them in detail. If you post a thread saying you are looking for a thorough Indy in your area to do the PPI, you will get good recommendations. I almost bought a turbo in Dallas, but fortunately asked for a recommendation for someone to review it and the car was a mess. Money well spent.
Those are high miles and the car may go a long while but you should get a significant discount. I agree with the $35,000 suggestion, but would really be at $30,000. Argue that you are effectively buying a car that is three times as used as one with 30,000 miles and there are plenty of 30,000 mile 997's out there. It would cost less than twice the $30,000 you are offering to buy the same car with 1/3 the miles, so $30,000 is a very reasonable price. Ask them if they think it would sell for $25,000 once it hits 100,000 miles? Tell them that is only six months away relative to average mileage on the car.
All said, my only complaint on mine was that if I was patient I could have spent the same money for a car with less miles. I hope to put over 100,000 on mine before I sell it and expect today a depreciation bullet because of it. This car, for a high mileage car, sounds like what you want relative to records, but you should expect to get a price in line with the usage.
There is a high mileage thread, check that for the highest mileage cars and PM the owners and ask them what to look out for. It would be great if you get it and it runs strong forever, but do your homework, be cautious and demand a deep discount. Make sure they know $30,000 is not a great price it is a fair price relative to the usage on the car that you are able and willing to pay.
Lots of good comments, lots said to run because I had a level 5 over rev. I've had it 10 months and put 6,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free. Do check the inner front tires for wear, these cars eat tires and my shredded through a set of fronts due to an alignment. It would be good to find a local Indy shop to do the PPI, so that you can walk through the car with them in detail. If you post a thread saying you are looking for a thorough Indy in your area to do the PPI, you will get good recommendations. I almost bought a turbo in Dallas, but fortunately asked for a recommendation for someone to review it and the car was a mess. Money well spent.
Those are high miles and the car may go a long while but you should get a significant discount. I agree with the $35,000 suggestion, but would really be at $30,000. Argue that you are effectively buying a car that is three times as used as one with 30,000 miles and there are plenty of 30,000 mile 997's out there. It would cost less than twice the $30,000 you are offering to buy the same car with 1/3 the miles, so $30,000 is a very reasonable price. Ask them if they think it would sell for $25,000 once it hits 100,000 miles? Tell them that is only six months away relative to average mileage on the car.
All said, my only complaint on mine was that if I was patient I could have spent the same money for a car with less miles. I hope to put over 100,000 on mine before I sell it and expect today a depreciation bullet because of it. This car, for a high mileage car, sounds like what you want relative to records, but you should expect to get a price in line with the usage.
There is a high mileage thread, check that for the highest mileage cars and PM the owners and ask them what to look out for. It would be great if you get it and it runs strong forever, but do your homework, be cautious and demand a deep discount. Make sure they know $30,000 is not a great price it is a fair price relative to the usage on the car that you are able and willing to pay.
Last edited by DoninDEN; May 28, 2012 at 09:51 PM.
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most independent shops may not have porsche computer. which dealer does PPI? I know most independent shops do PPI
ask for a list of PPI before you take the car there. many shops do minimal checking.
if the car is on the pennisula, i can help you check the car out.
any reason why you are stuck on this car? unless it shows like a cream puff, i would look at others and maybe pay $7k more for a less driven one. remember repairs can add up and you'll end up with a high mileage car still. it's not always about getting the lowest price.
ask for a list of PPI before you take the car there. many shops do minimal checking.
if the car is on the pennisula, i can help you check the car out.
any reason why you are stuck on this car? unless it shows like a cream puff, i would look at others and maybe pay $7k more for a less driven one. remember repairs can add up and you'll end up with a high mileage car still. it's not always about getting the lowest price.
The 997s are trending very similiar to the 993s and are unlikely to depreciate beyond the low 40s for some time even with the high miles. The previous owner has already addressed many of the issues that tend to be problematic in that mileage range and given the provenance of the car I don't think it is a bad buy at all. I would much rather have the car you described than something that comes off a whole-salers lot.
I hope you guys are right for my sake. But what you've priced on line, isn't that asking price?
I've been paying careful attention to prices as I bat around the idea of selling my '05 C2 with 73K and I think his asking price is in the ballpark given the fact that it is a C2S Cab with those options. There is room for negotiation, but I disagree with those who say $35K or lower.



