On a side note, I wonder why his rotors only lasted 15k miles. I must be missing something.

I do know that most mechanics want to replace pads and rotors at the same time. It makes everything perfect, trouble free and quick.

 

In June 09 I had 11,500 miles and had a set of bad rotors (Link Here) the dealer said was because the pads were pressed against the rotor after a wash and then I stored the car for the winter. Kinda creative thinking I thought but they did replace rotors and pads under the warranty and now 3,500 miles later the same thing? But since it did just come out of storage, they may be onto something, but this time the bill is on me.

I just tried to order the Hawk HPS on Amazon but cannot figure out the fronts part number. Anyone with those pads?

Not sure if I will have the rotors turned or replaced?

 

Why would the rotors need to be replaced? Can they not be turned if necessary, and then if out of limits obviously replaced.

 

Google it and most places now will turn drilled rotors.

Btw, my routine:
Wash car
200mph blow dry wheels and brake system
Drive the car for a few miles

This ensures that the pads do get dried up and the rotors don't rust. If I were you, see if you can just NOT engaged the brakes while in storage. Just chock them to stabilize the car.

 

Porsche recommends the use of "Optimoly Brake Cylinder Paste " when servicing the Brakes/Rotors. Any one know why or where this is supposed to be applied? I know to use regular "anti-seize paste" for various areas but never heard of "Optimoly Brake Cylinder Paste".

 

My Pagids didn't come with a slot for the wear sensor. All the sensor does is break a wire and cuts the circuit, causing your CEL to come on.

You can take the wear sensor, clip most of the sensor off and leave about an inch on the wire. If you expose and twist the wire, you won't have to worry about your CEL. I covered mine with heat-shrink for added protection.

 

I found the answer to my question so thought I'd post for others. Turns out it's basically "antiseize" compound/paste but Porsche's recommend (possibly for higher temp situations?

You apply it to the inside of the "hat" where it mates to the axle.

regards.

 

Getting ready to do my brakes on my 997 tt. Trying to figure out where this optimoly goes. You said it's where the hat meets the axle. Not share what the hat is. I assumed it's for the caliper bolt threads.......

 

If you put the rotor on your head, it would look like a hat (ala Fred Astaire).

Joke aside, the rotor is often called a "hat" since it looks like a hat.

Some call it a bell.

FYI, I don't use anti-seize but that's me and I'm not Porsche. I only use that compound on exhaust nuts and bolts.

Cheers!

 

Get a feel for original Porsche parts costs First.

Go to suncoastparts and select your car and check out cost of:
pads, rotors, sensors, brake pad spring clips, caliper bolts, brake dampers.

The springs aren't too necessary as you most likely can re-use them if they are not too worn.
I would not skimp out on the caliper bolts. You want new caliper bolts as a tremendous amount of pressure is generated during braking...and if these bolts fail (crack, snap, ..) then you'll be in trouble. Be sure to torque the caliper bolts to the spec for your car. For 997's it is 63ft-lbs.
As for the brake pad sensors..you don't need them. You can just disconnect the old sensors from the pads..Then, if they are not broken (open circuit)..you can just leave connected to the car and zip tie back. If the sensor is broken..cut the wire, solder together (when the whole sensor + wire harness is disconnected), shrink wrap and electrical tape the end.. lastly reconnect to car electrical socket and zip tie back (not connected to pads).
As for the brake pad dampers, you don't need them typically. I found that the brakes usually don't squeak without them.

So without new sensors and dampers, you can save about $100 or so for fronts.

Then, I'd ask your local Porsche Dealer to quote you on the parts required for a brake job. Call the parts center and speak to the rep. They'll give you a good estimate (ask for a discount, many times they will oblige especially if you mention suncoastparts.com prices).
If cost is an issue, you won't even want to ask for the labor cost. lol.. It will be about the same as the parts if not more.


Usually, you'll get the best price after negotiating for a discount with Porsche dealer..not always.

Next, check the parts list numbers as the dealer can make mistakes too. Ask me how I know.

If it is too expensive, then you may want to consider third party parts. Many are just as good.

Third, if you have questions on how to DIY,..search youtube and these forums. There are plenty of write ups. I have a GTS with centerlocks which make taking off the wheels a PIA..here is my write up if you're interested:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...997-2-gts.html

Good Luck

 

Optimoly goes on the center lock threads. You'll see that they are/were covered by them when you take the wheels off. Be generous with application.

You may also want to coat the hub behind the rotors when you put in new rotors to prevent lock up on next change.

Hope you have the required torque wrench,breaker bar, and socket to get wheels off/back on to spec (450ft-lbs with wheel in air). You'll need a helping hand to apply brakes with car on, wheels in air, as the wheel will turn while torquing back on.

Here's a write up I did recently for my GTS which also has center-locks:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...997-2-gts.html

Good Luck

 

After leaving car sitting a couple weeks after a rain, the front brake pads locked to the rotors and broke loose with a loud pop and made a grinding sound for a few miles. Since it was overdue for brakes I had an indy replace both. they replaced pads and rotors and changed brake fluid for around $1200.00. Should have done it myself but I rarely get the time. I don't know what manufacturer they used but the performance is sure better.