http://www.parts-express.com/

 

Buy the non-shielded ones, more power, only $5 more ea.

Non shielded, $19.90 ea, 40W RMS, 80W peak: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...eaker--295-307

Shielded, $15.00 ea, 30W RMS, 60W peak: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...4-ohm--295-302

 

Would be great for someone to try the more expensive Aurum Cantus. They should be a good fit. Also from parts express.

 

I did the sub driver swap today. Thanks again RyeM3 for the idea and the DIY write-up. The difference was immediately noticeable, just like with the other drivers. The bass is cleaner and tighter -- man those Bose drivers are really muddy-sounding!

A few tips that may help in addition to all the earlier posts:

1) The seat back posts that need to be removed take a 6mm hex (allen) wrench, at least on my '09 Turbo. Mine were torqued fairly tightly so took a little muscle.

2) The two torx bolts holding the sub box itself are T-30. They are long but the access space is tight so a ratchet or power driver may not fit. I used a manual wrench here.

3) You absolutely want a power driver for the bazillion T-20 screws holding the box together and also holding the drivers in the box. You may need some sort of extension depending on the type of cordless driver you have. Don't forget also you need a driver with a socket head. I used a 1/4" socket head for my cordless driver, a 1/4"x4" socket extension and a 1/4" T-20 socket. Luckily I had all this stuff already.

Be careful not to over-torque them when tightening as you could crack the plastic. I used a low setting for the box screws and I torqued the 8 screws on the drivers by hand. They should all be tight and evenly-torqued to avoid vibrations or air leaks.

4) I tested the new setup first before bolting everything back together. Just tighten a few screws to keep the box closed, plug it in and make sure both drivers are operational. I played some bass-heavy material and with the fader set all the way to the front.

Also be sure you've got the drivers' polarity correct. On mine at least, the crimp connectors that needed changing were both the + ones and the terminals on the old and new drivers are both marked with +/- so it's not difficult to keep straight.

Lastly be careful with the cable routing. It's pretty obvious where it goes. You don't want to pinch it between the box halves or let it flop around which might cause noise or potentially work connections loose over time.


I didn't keep track of how long this job took but it is certainly one of the easier DIY car tasks I've done. Zero swearing required, and no blood.

Cheers,

 

Awesome contribution Chris! I'll try to cite your post in my first post detailing the whole install. Wait until you break in the drivers, they keep getting better.

 

Perhaps someone may be able to shed some light on this for me.
I have the Bose system with subs. I replaced the head unit with Parrot Asteroid Smart and used Most-Hur.
I am not too big in to strong bass (too much loud music in my teenage years) it gives me headaches. But i still appreciate a light to moderate clean low end.
I found the subs to be way too strong for my taste, so even when i had stock unit, it was turned almost all the way down to the fullest. And i completely lowered it when pulled the original stereo.
Now, with the Parrot unit it is still hitting hard at times. I have to set the EQ even further down on the head unit to the point were lows are almost non existent in order for the sub not to make me go insane.
I am considering of replacing stock speakers and don't know what to do as the overall setup. Overall sound is just horrible. Should i just disconnect the subs? or could there be some other problems with my setup?

Thanks

 

It seems like something may be out of whack with the install, like maybe not all the mid and tweeter drivers are functioning or the new gear does not mesh well with the Bose equalization and amps. In my experience with the stock PCM 3 system it is often hard to even tell if the subs are contributing anything to the sound, and the stock drivers in the doors are not capable of much low-end either. It always sounded thin and upper-midrange-heavy to me.

Perhaps try disconnecting the sub box and see if that is really the trouble spot. You only need to remove 4 bolts to test that.

Or if a pro shop did your install, I'd suggest having them double check everything and they may have a spectrum analyzer or other gear to test what your response curve looks like.

 

saw this on parts express anybody care to comment if this could be better than the dayton audios?http://www.parts-express.com/tang-ba...oofer--264-831
they are certainly more expensive. my only apprehension is the sensitivity numbers so it might seem that more volume will comeout of the daytons that this

 

The physical depth looks like it may be a problem. The Daytons are very nearly the same size as the stock Bose, but these look significantly bigger. The sub box has very little extra room for either diameter or depth of the drivers...

 

Correct. Look all the way through the thread, I bought a pair of these! They look great, but the diameter is way too big. Would require modifications to make them work. I think we might have better chances with the Aurum Cantus. Oh, there's plenty of room for the depth. Check the page in the thread with the measurements of the sub speakers.

 

So, I'm most of the way through the speaker replacement...going with the focals, with the 8" door woofers. I'm confused by some of the wiring. The 8" door speakers were labeled +/-, so that was easy enough. The rest seem not to follow a consistent logic. I always assumed the capacitors were on the + lead. However, I believe the rear speakers have red wiring, which always indicated +, or so I thought, and black wiring going to the capacitors. And then there are the striped wires, on some seem to go to the positive lead, and on others seem to go to the negative lead.

I've got eveything (except the center channel...awaiting the replacement tweeters) hooked up, and it sounds tons better IMO. Not sure if I've got polarity right though. Any guidance is appreciated.

Oh, and if anyone wants a center channel tweeter, let me know. I bought two.

 

I believe the black stripe wires are negative. I went back into my system and double checked the polarities at one point and added it to the thread. If I get a chance, I'll add that detail to the first post. It is in the thread though.

 

Another way to determine polarity is to connect a 9V battery directly a speaker, noting which lead is touching the + on the battery, and note the direction the speaker moves, outwards or inwards. Replace with the new speaker in the same orientation.

 

That's how I double checked them.

 

This is a fantastic thread, haven't read every page but it is very informative and thank you for the information and the effort to keep everyone updated.

I am undertaking a similar task, however for the Subwoofers I have found a great Focal 5" sub but am concerned about the depth. Specs can bee seen here http://www.focalaustralia.com.au/sho...pia-subwoofer/

Appreciate any thoughts or comments on these subs.