2nd RMS
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2nd RMS
Who has had RMS replaced?
2007 997 4S manual
Had original done at 28,000 miles around November of 2009.
Now mechanic is saying it needs it again at 78,000 miles Feb of 2015.
Should I wait to do it with clutch job? How much is the going rate now?
2007 997 4S manual
Had original done at 28,000 miles around November of 2009.
Now mechanic is saying it needs it again at 78,000 miles Feb of 2015.
Should I wait to do it with clutch job? How much is the going rate now?
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From: Benton County, AR
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50K miles is ballparks for AOS life. Some fail with fewer miles. Granted not many but some. Others last more miles. My experience has been 80K to 100K miles.
If the AOS is truly bad you really can't wait to replace it. My experience is the AOS once it shows signs of trouble doesn't take long to advance to the point the thing has to be replaced to be able to use the car.
Might mention here if I tried to wait until my Boxster needed a clutch I'd still be waiting. 288K miles and the car is on its original clutch. While your 997 might not deliver the same clutch life as my Boxster I would hope your 997 doesn't need a new clutch at 78K miles.
Anyhow, for AOS failures, the quickest was just minutes. Driving along with no signs/symptoms of any trouble at all. Stopped at a stop light then after a bit of a wait for the light and pulling away from a stop light billows of oil smoke visible in the rear view mirror. Drove just 2 miles or so hoping to limp to nearest Porsche dealer but the smoking got so bad and the engine starting running rough I parked the car and called a tow truck.
Longest was on a cross country road trip. Once or twice after leaving CA when I pulled off the freeway to fuel up or stop for the night when stopped at a stop light the engine would give a very mild barely noticeable stumble and the CEL would come on. Error codes had me suspecting the MAF. So I pressed on. Second day much the same as the 1st. 3rd day ditto. The afternoon of the 3rd day I made it to my destination after a 2K mile several day drive. The next morning I started the engine and the smoke just billowed from the exhaust. Then I realized my MAF "diagnosis" was wrong. AOS.
My advice is to based on the tech's diagnosis replace the AOS. If you are "hard" on clutches, if you go through clutches like they were made out of butter then pre-emptively "while you are there" -- so to speak -- have the clutch replaced.
Then start saving for the next AOS. If you keep the car, drive it, you're going to replace the AOS again.
Oh, the cost? I do not recall what I paid for my car this last AOS and what I paid may not be the same as for a 997. I would guess $1000 would cover this easily even if done at a dealer. Having it done at an indy shop could cut that by 25% maybe more.
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He's asking about the Rear main seal and not about Air Oil Separator so I am a little confused about the reply above. Still, his input is valuable.
I had mine done at 50k under the warranty. Clutch remaining was at 50% but I had them replace it anyway. At 70k now and no leaks
Just to be clear: since they had the clutch out while replacing the RMS, I told the dealer to replace the clutch (trying to save on labor and future engine drop).
I had mine done at 50k under the warranty. Clutch remaining was at 50% but I had them replace it anyway. At 70k now and no leaks
Just to be clear: since they had the clutch out while replacing the RMS, I told the dealer to replace the clutch (trying to save on labor and future engine drop).
Last edited by cab83_750; Feb 24, 2015 at 12:40 PM.
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From: Benton County, AR
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He's asking about the Rear main seal and not about Air Oil Separator so I am a little confused about the reply above. Still, his input is valuable.
I had mine done at 50k under the warranty. Clutch remaining was at 50% but I had them replace it anyway. At 70k now and no leaks
I had mine done at 50k under the warranty. Clutch remaining was at 50% but I had them replace it anyway. At 70k now and no leaks
RMS? Ok. RMS. RMS. RMS. I think I have it now.
Ok, OP let me try this again.
My Boxster needed one at 25K miles. Done under warranty. The replacement is ok now with 265K miles.
The Turbo's RMS was ok up to around 120K miles then developed a pretty good leak. I hope to get the same kind of life from the replacement RMS as I have from the Boxster's replacement RMS.
More comments directed to the OP: Be sure the diagnosis is correct. I'm not that familiar with the 997 engine but I bet there can be other sources of an oil leak.
When my Boxster was in the shop on the lift the SM walked me through the RMS diagnosis. He pointed out the various other places oil could leak from and the resulting oil leak sign at the bottom of the engine be mistaken for an RMS leak and every place he pointed out was free of any leak sign. The RMS was replaced (along with the IMS end flange and its bolts -- this IMS end flange/bolt thing may not be applicable to the 997 engine, unless it is one that still has the IMS and the end flange and bolts that hold the flange in place) and the leak was gone.
Might also mention that once the transmission is out of the car and the rear of the engine is exposed, if there are any places from which oil can leak behind the bell-housing these are eliminated as leak sources, too. In the case of my Boxster engine I do not recall if there are other leak source behind the bell housing. In the case of my Turbo, the tech told me there was one possible leak source, but it proved to be quite dry and oil tight. In the case of the 997 engine I do not know if there exists any oil plug or seal or whatever behind the bell housing that could mimic an RMS leak. The tech can show you this when he gets the tranny out of the car.
Oh, before I forget, I have to expand on the subject of the IMS end flange and bolts. If this exists in your car's engine then this has to be considered a leak and addressed. In the case of the Boxster engine (and the 996 engine) when the RMS was replaced the IMS end flange and bolts were replaced -- with upgraded parts -- at the same time. The SM explained to me that too many "RMS" leaks were coming back and the actual leak was the IMS end flange or its bolts. The improved flange came with a 3-ribbed seal (vs. the old flange's single o-ring) and micro-encapsulated bolts to ensure the bolts were oil tight. The bolts thread into a region of the engine that is under oil some of the time.
Last but not least, the tech should know this but I'll pass it on to you. When the new RMS is installed it should not be installed just exactly where the old RMS was installed. This is to avoid the journal portion of the seal ending up where the journal portion of the old RMS seal was. The old RMS seal probably left a slight groove in the journal. If the new seal ends up in this groove the new seal will leak prematurely.
The solution is to when installing the new RMS to install it just shy of where the old RMS was installed to avoid it ending up in the crank journal groove.
By habit someone might just drive/press the new RMS in as far as it can go. However, this is probably where the 1st RMS was located and maybe the 2nd RMS, too. The installer of the 3rd RMS has a bit work as he must be careful to install the seal so it seals against "virgin" crankshaft journal
diameter.
Added: That I mistook RMS for AOS also explains your question about letting this -- RMS -- go until clutch time. The answer is maybe. If the leak is not making a mess under the engine, if the oil is not getting onto other hardware, exhaust, suspension, what have you, if the oil leak is not severe enough to make a puddle of oil under the car, then you can just monitor the leak and let it go for now. It up to you.
The RMS in the Boxster appeared just prior to me heading out on a nice long road trip. I spoke with the SM and he said he's never seen an RMS turn severe and could not see why I couldn't take the trip so I headed out and covered around 8K miles. The leak was very very small when I left and it was the same when I returned. But I had the thing fixed as soon as I got back from the trip.
In the case of the Turbo, the leak progressed very rapidly to where it was making a mess of the bottom of the engine, and was showing spots on the ground under the rear of the car. At this point I decided to have the RMS fixed. With the tranny out of course the clutch was inspected but no measurable wear was found so the clutch went back in with nothing replaced *other* than the needle bearings in which the clutch control shaft pivots along with the needle bearing associated dust caps/seals. In the case of the Turbo the tech told me these items should always be replaced.
I do not know if the 997 clutch hardware has something comparable to the Turbo clutch needle bearings but the tech should know and he should then know if these should be replaced even if the rest of the clutch hardware is in perfect condition.
Last edited by Macster; Feb 24, 2015 at 12:36 PM.
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WOW MACSTER!
We could probably copy and paste your reply for both AOS and RMS to Wikipedia, it is that informative. (REP POINTS TO YOU)
The leak is not large. Basically the car has sat in the garage since November (last DE at VIR) and there is no evidence of leakage on the garage floor.
We could probably copy and paste your reply for both AOS and RMS to Wikipedia, it is that informative. (REP POINTS TO YOU)
The leak is not large. Basically the car has sat in the garage since November (last DE at VIR) and there is no evidence of leakage on the garage floor.
Oh God. You are right. Sorry. How I mistook RMS for AOS I have no idea.
RMS? Ok. RMS. RMS. RMS. I think I have it now.
Ok, OP let me try this again.
My Boxster needed one at 25K miles. Done under warranty. The replacement is ok now with 265K miles.
The Turbo's RMS was ok up to around 120K miles then developed a pretty good leak. I hope to get the same kind of life from the replacement RMS as I have from the Boxster's replacement RMS.
More comments directed to the OP: Be sure the diagnosis is correct. I'm not that familiar with the 997 engine but I bet there can be other sources of an oil leak.
When my Boxster was in the shop on the lift the SM walked me through the RMS diagnosis. He pointed out the various other places oil could leak from and the resulting oil leak sign at the bottom of the engine be mistaken for an RMS leak and every place he pointed out was free of any leak sign. The RMS was replaced (along with the IMS end flange and its bolts -- this IMS end flange/bolt thing may not be applicable to the 997 engine, unless it is one that still has the IMS and the end flange and bolts that hold the flange in place) and the leak was gone.
Might also mention that once the transmission is out of the car and the rear of the engine is exposed, if there are any places from which oil can leak behind the bell-housing these are eliminated as leak sources, too. In the case of my Boxster engine I do not recall if there are other leak source behind the bell housing. In the case of my Turbo, the tech told me there was one possible leak source, but it proved to be quite dry and oil tight. In the case of the 997 engine I do not know if there exists any oil plug or seal or whatever behind the bell housing that could mimic an RMS leak. The tech can show you this when he gets the tranny out of the car.
Oh, before I forget, I have to expand on the subject of the IMS end flange and bolts. If this exists in your car's engine then this has to be considered a leak and addressed. In the case of the Boxster engine (and the 996 engine) when the RMS was replaced the IMS end flange and bolts were replaced -- with upgraded parts -- at the same time. The SM explained to me that too many "RMS" leaks were coming back and the actual leak was the IMS end flange or its bolts. The improved flange came with a 3-ribbed seal (vs. the old flange's single o-ring) and micro-encapsulated bolts to ensure the bolts were oil tight. The bolts thread into a region of the engine that is under oil some of the time.
Last but not least, the tech should know this but I'll pass it on to you. When the new RMS is installed it should not be installed just exactly where the old RMS was installed. This is to avoid the journal portion of the seal ending up where the journal portion of the old RMS seal was. The old RMS seal probably left a slight groove in the journal. If the new seal ends up in this groove the new seal will leak prematurely.
The solution is to when installing the new RMS to install it just shy of where the old RMS was installed to avoid it ending up in the crank journal groove.
By habit someone might just drive/press the new RMS in as far as it can go. However, this is probably where the 1st RMS was located and maybe the 2nd RMS, too. The installer of the 3rd RMS has a bit work as he must be careful to install the seal so it seals against "virgin" crankshaft journal
diameter.
Added: That I mistook RMS for AOS also explains your question about letting this -- RMS -- go until clutch time. The answer is maybe. If the leak is not making a mess under the engine, if the oil is not getting onto other hardware, exhaust, suspension, what have you, if the oil leak is not severe enough to make a puddle of oil under the car, then you can just monitor the leak and let it go for now. It up to you.
The RMS in the Boxster appeared just prior to me heading out on a nice long road trip. I spoke with the SM and he said he's never seen an RMS turn severe and could not see why I couldn't take the trip so I headed out and covered around 8K miles. The leak was very very small when I left and it was the same when I returned. But I had the thing fixed as soon as I got back from the trip.
In the case of the Turbo, the leak progressed very rapidly to where it was making a mess of the bottom of the engine, and was showing spots on the ground under the rear of the car. At this point I decided to have the RMS fixed. With the tranny out of course the clutch was inspected but no measurable wear was found so the clutch went back in with nothing replaced *other* than the needle bearings in which the clutch control shaft pivots along with the needle bearing associated dust caps/seals. In the case of the Turbo the tech told me these items should always be replaced.
I do not know if the 997 clutch hardware has something comparable to the Turbo clutch needle bearings but the tech should know and he should then know if these should be replaced even if the rest of the clutch hardware is in perfect condition.
RMS? Ok. RMS. RMS. RMS. I think I have it now.
Ok, OP let me try this again.
My Boxster needed one at 25K miles. Done under warranty. The replacement is ok now with 265K miles.
The Turbo's RMS was ok up to around 120K miles then developed a pretty good leak. I hope to get the same kind of life from the replacement RMS as I have from the Boxster's replacement RMS.
More comments directed to the OP: Be sure the diagnosis is correct. I'm not that familiar with the 997 engine but I bet there can be other sources of an oil leak.
When my Boxster was in the shop on the lift the SM walked me through the RMS diagnosis. He pointed out the various other places oil could leak from and the resulting oil leak sign at the bottom of the engine be mistaken for an RMS leak and every place he pointed out was free of any leak sign. The RMS was replaced (along with the IMS end flange and its bolts -- this IMS end flange/bolt thing may not be applicable to the 997 engine, unless it is one that still has the IMS and the end flange and bolts that hold the flange in place) and the leak was gone.
Might also mention that once the transmission is out of the car and the rear of the engine is exposed, if there are any places from which oil can leak behind the bell-housing these are eliminated as leak sources, too. In the case of my Boxster engine I do not recall if there are other leak source behind the bell housing. In the case of my Turbo, the tech told me there was one possible leak source, but it proved to be quite dry and oil tight. In the case of the 997 engine I do not know if there exists any oil plug or seal or whatever behind the bell housing that could mimic an RMS leak. The tech can show you this when he gets the tranny out of the car.
Oh, before I forget, I have to expand on the subject of the IMS end flange and bolts. If this exists in your car's engine then this has to be considered a leak and addressed. In the case of the Boxster engine (and the 996 engine) when the RMS was replaced the IMS end flange and bolts were replaced -- with upgraded parts -- at the same time. The SM explained to me that too many "RMS" leaks were coming back and the actual leak was the IMS end flange or its bolts. The improved flange came with a 3-ribbed seal (vs. the old flange's single o-ring) and micro-encapsulated bolts to ensure the bolts were oil tight. The bolts thread into a region of the engine that is under oil some of the time.
Last but not least, the tech should know this but I'll pass it on to you. When the new RMS is installed it should not be installed just exactly where the old RMS was installed. This is to avoid the journal portion of the seal ending up where the journal portion of the old RMS seal was. The old RMS seal probably left a slight groove in the journal. If the new seal ends up in this groove the new seal will leak prematurely.
The solution is to when installing the new RMS to install it just shy of where the old RMS was installed to avoid it ending up in the crank journal groove.
By habit someone might just drive/press the new RMS in as far as it can go. However, this is probably where the 1st RMS was located and maybe the 2nd RMS, too. The installer of the 3rd RMS has a bit work as he must be careful to install the seal so it seals against "virgin" crankshaft journal
diameter.
Added: That I mistook RMS for AOS also explains your question about letting this -- RMS -- go until clutch time. The answer is maybe. If the leak is not making a mess under the engine, if the oil is not getting onto other hardware, exhaust, suspension, what have you, if the oil leak is not severe enough to make a puddle of oil under the car, then you can just monitor the leak and let it go for now. It up to you.
The RMS in the Boxster appeared just prior to me heading out on a nice long road trip. I spoke with the SM and he said he's never seen an RMS turn severe and could not see why I couldn't take the trip so I headed out and covered around 8K miles. The leak was very very small when I left and it was the same when I returned. But I had the thing fixed as soon as I got back from the trip.
In the case of the Turbo, the leak progressed very rapidly to where it was making a mess of the bottom of the engine, and was showing spots on the ground under the rear of the car. At this point I decided to have the RMS fixed. With the tranny out of course the clutch was inspected but no measurable wear was found so the clutch went back in with nothing replaced *other* than the needle bearings in which the clutch control shaft pivots along with the needle bearing associated dust caps/seals. In the case of the Turbo the tech told me these items should always be replaced.
I do not know if the 997 clutch hardware has something comparable to the Turbo clutch needle bearings but the tech should know and he should then know if these should be replaced even if the rest of the clutch hardware is in perfect condition.
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Had mine replaced at 18k miles, it was replaced under CPO warranty, I believe the final cost was $1,200 or $1,500, can't remember now. I also heard that RMS will leak if you park it for a long extended period. If you don't drive the car, the seals will dry up and it will leak. Make sense, since mine was parked for 3 months before I purchased it.
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@Macster... just got in from out in the garage doing a little mechanical work on some engines, and despite even having a bit of a buzz.... ok, a bit more than a buzz, I still got through your entire post above....
Ive read many of your archived posts in the past, and I too think you should get a few rep points.
My weigh in is... Do clutch at same time as rms. don't skimp as the majority of the cost is only parts.
Damn, I hope some of you didn't pay $1200 bucks to replace your AOS!!
OUCH!!
Ive read many of your archived posts in the past, and I too think you should get a few rep points.
My weigh in is... Do clutch at same time as rms. don't skimp as the majority of the cost is only parts.
Damn, I hope some of you didn't pay $1200 bucks to replace your AOS!!
OUCH!!
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From: Benton County, AR
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These engines do not like to sit unused.
A good portion of the approved oils (those Group IV oils with POA as a base) for these engines are not seal friendly, but have additives (ester based oil) to help the seals.
But the oil needs to be circulated once in a while to bath the seals for this additive to be of any value.
If the engine sits unused too much the seals dry and shrink and will leak. My Boxster -- except for the RMS -- has been oil tight but I bought it a few months after the car was made and have used it a lot since then. The car currently has almost 300K miles on it. The original RMS leak (or IMS end flange leak) was I think just one of those things. And that the replacement has so far proved oil tight I think confirms this.
In the case of my 2003 Turbo, I bought it in 2009 with just 10K miles on it. While I didn't think the car would be a problem, I found out the hard way I was wrong. The 6-speed developed a selector shaft leak. Luckily this was replaced under warranty (the tranny, mind you, not just the seal).
But out of warranty, at around 115K/120K the water pump seal developed a leak, the RMS developed a leak, as did the front diff axle flange seals.
I can't help but blame this "flurry" of leaks on the fact the car sat relatively unused for the first 6 years of its life.
What you may consider doing if the leak isn't too bad and if you can't drive/use the car more often, is to switch to a Group V oil one that is ester based. Ester is very seal friendly, almost too friendly, as it causes seals to swell. (Which is one reason why it is used as an additive in POA oils.)
The "problem" is the oil may not "fix" the leaks. The other problem is as I understand it the ester based oil causes seals to swell a bit. If one switches away from an ester based oil the seals will shrink and leaks could reappear and be even worse.
For me, switching to an ester based oil is not really a viable option. While I hold nothing against ester based oils I prefer to whenever possible fix leaks by replacement of the leaking part rather than rely upon some "magic elixir".
So my advice to you would be if the leak is bad enough replace the seal. Then strive to drive the car more often, give it regular use, so the new seals, and the rest of the seals have some chance of remaining oil tight.
A good portion of the approved oils (those Group IV oils with POA as a base) for these engines are not seal friendly, but have additives (ester based oil) to help the seals.
But the oil needs to be circulated once in a while to bath the seals for this additive to be of any value.
If the engine sits unused too much the seals dry and shrink and will leak. My Boxster -- except for the RMS -- has been oil tight but I bought it a few months after the car was made and have used it a lot since then. The car currently has almost 300K miles on it. The original RMS leak (or IMS end flange leak) was I think just one of those things. And that the replacement has so far proved oil tight I think confirms this.
In the case of my 2003 Turbo, I bought it in 2009 with just 10K miles on it. While I didn't think the car would be a problem, I found out the hard way I was wrong. The 6-speed developed a selector shaft leak. Luckily this was replaced under warranty (the tranny, mind you, not just the seal).
But out of warranty, at around 115K/120K the water pump seal developed a leak, the RMS developed a leak, as did the front diff axle flange seals.
I can't help but blame this "flurry" of leaks on the fact the car sat relatively unused for the first 6 years of its life.
What you may consider doing if the leak isn't too bad and if you can't drive/use the car more often, is to switch to a Group V oil one that is ester based. Ester is very seal friendly, almost too friendly, as it causes seals to swell. (Which is one reason why it is used as an additive in POA oils.)
The "problem" is the oil may not "fix" the leaks. The other problem is as I understand it the ester based oil causes seals to swell a bit. If one switches away from an ester based oil the seals will shrink and leaks could reappear and be even worse.
For me, switching to an ester based oil is not really a viable option. While I hold nothing against ester based oils I prefer to whenever possible fix leaks by replacement of the leaking part rather than rely upon some "magic elixir".
So my advice to you would be if the leak is bad enough replace the seal. Then strive to drive the car more often, give it regular use, so the new seals, and the rest of the seals have some chance of remaining oil tight.
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Had mine replaced at 18k miles, it was replaced under CPO warranty, I believe the final cost was $1,200 or $1,500, can't remember now. I also heard that RMS will leak if you park it for a long extended period. If you don't drive the car, the seals will dry up and it will leak. Make sense, since mine was parked for 3 months before I purchased it.
The Turbo 6-speed is a bit "fiddly" to remove and the engine has to be supported. Either by an engine jack/stand which of course has to extend/reach up to support the engine while the car remains high enough in the air that the tech can work under the car, or the engine is supported by a special tool that bolts to where the rear sway bar bolts and supports the engine.
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@Macster... just got in from out in the garage doing a little mechanical work on some engines, and despite even having a bit of a buzz.... ok, a bit more than a buzz, I still got through your entire post above....
Ive read many of your archived posts in the past, and I too think you should get a few rep points.
My weigh in is... Do clutch at same time as rms. don't skimp as the majority of the cost is only parts.
Damn, I hope some of you didn't pay $1200 bucks to replace your AOS!!
OUCH!!
Ive read many of your archived posts in the past, and I too think you should get a few rep points.
My weigh in is... Do clutch at same time as rms. don't skimp as the majority of the cost is only parts.
Damn, I hope some of you didn't pay $1200 bucks to replace your AOS!!
OUCH!!
When my Turbo's clutch was exposed at around 120K miles to have the RMS done the clutch friction disc had no measurable wear. The friction disc material thickness measured from the appropriate side to the rivet head was 1.7mm and this is the new disc dimension. By way of comparison the disc is considered worn out when only 0.3mm material remains.
(My Boxster's clutch was exposed at 25K miles and deemed to be in fine condition so I didn't have this hardware replaced. The clutch is therefore original and has so far lasted nearly 300K miles.)
Back to the Turbo: The only clutch hardware the tech recommended be replaced was the needle bearings (and related seals/dust caps) that the clutch control shaft runs in. He said for the Turbo these should always be replaced.
BTW, these are "fiddly" to remove and get back in which accounts for some of the labor time.
'course each owner has to use his own judgement and rely upon the judgement of his trusted tech. If the tech says "replace", or if the owner just wants the peace of mind, then replace whatever one wants to when the tranny is out of the car.
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On my 2002 Boxster? No. But 300K miles is getting pretty close. Just checked: 289,999 miles. 10,001 miles to go. Sometime this year I think the 300K mile threshold will be reached.
Added: I actually feel pretty good about the 2002 Boxster, how good a car it has been, and use almost every opportunity to mention its high miles, well, what good car it has been.
But I got my comeuppance, of sorts, recently. Late last year, early this year, in my 2003 Turbo on a trip back to the midwest to take care of some family business on the way back to CA early in January I stopped at the Springfield MO Porsche dealer to have the Turbo's oil/filter service done. the odometer had just reached 130K miles and every 5K miles regardless if I'm at home with the car or on the road I get the oil/filter service done. (Except the one time I lost track of time/miles and let it go 10,000 miles.)
Anyhow, the SM mentioned he liked to see these cars driven -- the Turbo's odometer had just rolled over 130K miles -- when said something along the lines if he liked the Turbo with its 130K miles he ought to be really impressed with my Boxster with nearly 300K miles. I then awaited the usual comments and response.
I got some comments/response alright but not what I was expecting.
The SM told me there was a Boxster in the area with *over* 300K miles and not only (like my car) was it on its original clutch but (not like my car) it was on its original AOS, too. (My 2002 is on its 3rd replacement AOS.) And the air wasn't already out of my sails enough, the SM told me this Boxster was an early model year too.
I still feel good about my Boxster, that there is another higher mileage Boxster around doesn't change that.
But the lesson learned is like there is always a faster car, there is also a car with more miles.
Added: I actually feel pretty good about the 2002 Boxster, how good a car it has been, and use almost every opportunity to mention its high miles, well, what good car it has been.
But I got my comeuppance, of sorts, recently. Late last year, early this year, in my 2003 Turbo on a trip back to the midwest to take care of some family business on the way back to CA early in January I stopped at the Springfield MO Porsche dealer to have the Turbo's oil/filter service done. the odometer had just reached 130K miles and every 5K miles regardless if I'm at home with the car or on the road I get the oil/filter service done. (Except the one time I lost track of time/miles and let it go 10,000 miles.)
Anyhow, the SM mentioned he liked to see these cars driven -- the Turbo's odometer had just rolled over 130K miles -- when said something along the lines if he liked the Turbo with its 130K miles he ought to be really impressed with my Boxster with nearly 300K miles. I then awaited the usual comments and response.
I got some comments/response alright but not what I was expecting.
The SM told me there was a Boxster in the area with *over* 300K miles and not only (like my car) was it on its original clutch but (not like my car) it was on its original AOS, too. (My 2002 is on its 3rd replacement AOS.) And the air wasn't already out of my sails enough, the SM told me this Boxster was an early model year too.
I still feel good about my Boxster, that there is another higher mileage Boxster around doesn't change that.
But the lesson learned is like there is always a faster car, there is also a car with more miles.
Last edited by Macster; Feb 28, 2015 at 11:57 AM.
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Wow! And I thought the 3.0SC engines are the bulletproof engines. When I see the opportunity in the early forums, I'll mention your 300k engine.
I could understand the engine lasting that long. The clutch story is somewhat questionable. Thhe only way I could see the other car lasting 300k is for 98% of it being highway driving.
I could understand the engine lasting that long. The clutch story is somewhat questionable. Thhe only way I could see the other car lasting 300k is for 98% of it being highway driving.
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Wow! And I thought the 3.0SC engines are the bulletproof engines. When I see the opportunity in the early forums, I'll mention your 300k engine.
I could understand the engine lasting that long. The clutch story is somewhat questionable. Thhe only way I could see the other car lasting 300k is for 98% of it being highway driving.
I could understand the engine lasting that long. The clutch story is somewhat questionable. Thhe only way I could see the other car lasting 300k is for 98% of it being highway driving.
I know from my experience with my 2.7l Boxster I can get the car moving off from a stop with very little clutch slipping. I do not use the clutch to "brake" the car and at all times practice good clutch habits.
While it is true my Boxster (and Turbo) sees considerable highway miles I can assure you the Boxster (and to a lesser extent the Turbo) also sees city and stop and go driving.
But I am quite adept at getting the car (both cars in fact) moving without much clutch slippage and this is one reason why the clutch has lasted so long.
BTW, on the subject of high miles cars/engines, I know (2nd hand by the posts of its owner) of a 996 Turbo (a S model too I think) with over 400K miles. At something like 420K miles the owner decided to pull the engine and tear it down to address some leaks and to refresh what he assumed was a worn engine. The owner reported the engine internals had no measurable wear.
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miken168
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Oct 6, 2015 09:21 AM