So, my engine is coming out
So, my engine is coming out
Lesser humans would probably have already set fire to their car for all of the issues I've had since trying to upgrade my 997TT from the EVT580 to a 700hp monster. However, I was calm and cool about the whole thing and we finally got the ol' girl running pretty well. Still some ponies left in the tune but making pretty good power. Some data logging could help.
And then I took a short roadtrip and noticed a metallic noise coming from the engine. Took it to my shop and there apparently is metal on the oil filter. So...motor started to come out last Thursday.
The point of this thread is not to get anyone's sympathy but to ask some of you more knowledgable folk what I should replace while the motor is out. I'm already going to be out about $7k pulling and cleaning out the motor. I might as well make the inside a little more bullet-proof so I can drive it without worrying so much about breaking it again. I'm pretty sure I'm done seeking more power so I don't think I need to go crazy on the mods. I just want to get rid of potential weak links.
Also, you guys think I should put on a GT3 throttle body and the IPD 80mm plenum? I already have the smaller IPD plenum but just thought it might be beneficial to do it now b/f we finish tuning the car. More air in, right?
And then I took a short roadtrip and noticed a metallic noise coming from the engine. Took it to my shop and there apparently is metal on the oil filter. So...motor started to come out last Thursday.
The point of this thread is not to get anyone's sympathy but to ask some of you more knowledgable folk what I should replace while the motor is out. I'm already going to be out about $7k pulling and cleaning out the motor. I might as well make the inside a little more bullet-proof so I can drive it without worrying so much about breaking it again. I'm pretty sure I'm done seeking more power so I don't think I need to go crazy on the mods. I just want to get rid of potential weak links.
Also, you guys think I should put on a GT3 throttle body and the IPD 80mm plenum? I already have the smaller IPD plenum but just thought it might be beneficial to do it now b/f we finish tuning the car. More air in, right?
I would consider welding in coolant pipe connectors - http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-001.htm The oem pressed fit/glued connectors are prone to eventual failure.
Install more robust head gaskets and strengthened 10mm head bolts - http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Marketplace.asp?Now=9%2F17%2F2012+12%3A55%3A16+PM& ParentID={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}&Curr={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}
I also upgraded to Carrillo connecting rods but with 2 bent oem ones, I didn't have much choice in that matter.
The throttle body and y-pipe are good suggestions for a more balanced package.
Good luck with your "improvements".
Install more robust head gaskets and strengthened 10mm head bolts - http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Marketplace.asp?Now=9%2F17%2F2012+12%3A55%3A16+PM& ParentID={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}&Curr={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}
I also upgraded to Carrillo connecting rods but with 2 bent oem ones, I didn't have much choice in that matter.
The throttle body and y-pipe are good suggestions for a more balanced package.
Good luck with your "improvements".
I would consider welding in coolant pipe connectors - http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-001.htm The oem pressed fit/glued connectors are prone to eventual failure.
Install more robust head gaskets and strengthened 10mm head bolts - http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Marketplace.asp?Now=9%2F17%2F2012+12%3A55%3A16+PM& ParentID={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}&Curr={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}
I also upgraded to Carrillo connecting rods but with 2 bent oem ones, I didn't have much choice in that matter.
The throttle body and y-pipe are good suggestions for a more balanced package.
Good luck with your "improvements".
Install more robust head gaskets and strengthened 10mm head bolts - http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/Marketplace.asp?Now=9%2F17%2F2012+12%3A55%3A16+PM& ParentID={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}&Curr={DB632267-FE09-40D4-866E-E6F70332D6E0}
I also upgraded to Carrillo connecting rods but with 2 bent oem ones, I didn't have much choice in that matter.
The throttle body and y-pipe are good suggestions for a more balanced package.
Good luck with your "improvements".
Good info on the coolant pipe fittings. Cheap insurance there. I'll definitely consider the head studs and gaskets...and maybe connecting rods.
Ugh, this is gonna really start adding up!
Some connecting rods, like Carrillo, require the oil pump to be machined/shaved to get adequate clearance. You probably want to make sure your shop has done that before. Alternatively, you can send your pump to Evoms and they can make the adjustment for about $250 if I'm remembering correctly. Also, there's a "technique" for installing these Hellfire gaskets and for correctly torquing the head bolts. I don't think it's rocket science but make sure your guys at least know what questions to ask. Best,
+1 on welding the coolant pipes and replace intermediate shaft with GT3 version
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The motor came apart a couple of days ago and they discovered that the bearings on a couple connecting rods had killed themselves. One was completely gone and another was cracked in half but still somehow in there. Metal pieces were scattered all over the inside of the engine. The crankshaft, a couple cylinder liners?, oil pump and one of the connecting rods need to be replaced.
So, we're deciding on replacement parts now. GT3 crankshaft? Carillo rods? 3.8L conversion kit? Head studs? Welded coolant pipes.
I'm feeling 'Ugh!' and 'OH YEAH!' at the same time.
So, we're deciding on replacement parts now. GT3 crankshaft? Carillo rods? 3.8L conversion kit? Head studs? Welded coolant pipes.
I'm feeling 'Ugh!' and 'OH YEAH!' at the same time.
I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune as it sounds like you are in complete rebuild mode. I would only offer this advice;
First, completely check every engine part for reusability and replace anything that's questionable. My motor had to come out a second time and be torn apart again when a systemic error code occurred indicating one of the vario cam actuators failed so we replaced both of them. We also replaced cam chain guides and some other stuff that was questionable. I won't even tell you about the third time when it developed coolant leaks. You can just watch $5K bills flying out of your wallet if you don't get it right the first time and sometimes you just don't know until you put it back together. Also, if you rebuild it like it's going to be a 1,000 hp monster (strengthened head bolts, gaskets, etc.) you can be be pretty sure it's not going to come apart again at 700.
Second, I would source all of the parts from a single vendor, preferably one that is a tuning shop itself. They can help you decide what parts are most suitable for your setup and ultimate goals. They can also (hopefully) provide installation advice if your guys run into something that is unusual for them in the rebuild process.
Third, I would really double check how many 997.1 TT motors your guys have rebuilt from the ground up especially if you are going to tinker with performance cranks, cams and whatnot. Are they capable of doing what needs to be done to the ECU to get it "right"? If it's not a big shop and they make their bread and butter doing brakes, oil changes and other routine stuff, rebuilding one of these can quickly turn into a science project. My car sat in a "qualified" shop for seven months after being taken apart before I finally demanded that it be transported to Phoenix where Evoms did the rebuild. I think they had about 120 hours into the rebuild, reinstall and debugging which is a long time for a shop that's not set up to devote those levels of resources to a singular project. Also, think about what happens when you sell the car and you can say, " Joe Schmo at Shady Tree Motorsports did the rebuild", vs "John Bray at Evolution Motorsports (or something of that ilk) did the build". Your car's value at that point will in large measure be a function of the reputation of the builder. In short, if you have any doubts, get your motor into competent hands if not the entire car. What you spend in transportation will be a rounding error in the total project cost.
Good luck and keep the good attitude. Eventually, it will be a better car than it was. Best,
First, completely check every engine part for reusability and replace anything that's questionable. My motor had to come out a second time and be torn apart again when a systemic error code occurred indicating one of the vario cam actuators failed so we replaced both of them. We also replaced cam chain guides and some other stuff that was questionable. I won't even tell you about the third time when it developed coolant leaks. You can just watch $5K bills flying out of your wallet if you don't get it right the first time and sometimes you just don't know until you put it back together. Also, if you rebuild it like it's going to be a 1,000 hp monster (strengthened head bolts, gaskets, etc.) you can be be pretty sure it's not going to come apart again at 700.
Second, I would source all of the parts from a single vendor, preferably one that is a tuning shop itself. They can help you decide what parts are most suitable for your setup and ultimate goals. They can also (hopefully) provide installation advice if your guys run into something that is unusual for them in the rebuild process.
Third, I would really double check how many 997.1 TT motors your guys have rebuilt from the ground up especially if you are going to tinker with performance cranks, cams and whatnot. Are they capable of doing what needs to be done to the ECU to get it "right"? If it's not a big shop and they make their bread and butter doing brakes, oil changes and other routine stuff, rebuilding one of these can quickly turn into a science project. My car sat in a "qualified" shop for seven months after being taken apart before I finally demanded that it be transported to Phoenix where Evoms did the rebuild. I think they had about 120 hours into the rebuild, reinstall and debugging which is a long time for a shop that's not set up to devote those levels of resources to a singular project. Also, think about what happens when you sell the car and you can say, " Joe Schmo at Shady Tree Motorsports did the rebuild", vs "John Bray at Evolution Motorsports (or something of that ilk) did the build". Your car's value at that point will in large measure be a function of the reputation of the builder. In short, if you have any doubts, get your motor into competent hands if not the entire car. What you spend in transportation will be a rounding error in the total project cost.
Good luck and keep the good attitude. Eventually, it will be a better car than it was. Best,
Last edited by Steamboat; Sep 27, 2012 at 11:22 AM.
You should contact EVOMS and see if they can discount you their stage 1 motor build kit. Rods, head studs, heavy duty gaskets, pinning the camshafts, and even the intermediate gear all while keeping the 3.6L. A 3.8L can be a little overkill due to the different cam specs, but hey what do I know.
I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune as it sounds like you are in complete rebuild mode. I would only offer this advice;
First, completely check every engine part for reusability and replace anything that's questionable. My motor had to come out a second time and be torn apart again when a systemic error code occurred indicating one of the vario cam actuators failed so we replaced both of them. We also replaced cam chain guides and some other stuff that was questionable. I won't even tell you about the third time when it developed coolant leaks. You can just watch $5K bills flying out of your wallet if you don't get it right the first time and sometimes you just don't know until you put it back together. Also, if you rebuild it like it's going to be a 1,000 hp monster (strengthened head bolts, gaskets, etc.) you can be be pretty sure it's not going to come apart again at 700.
Second, I would source all of the parts from a single vendor, preferably one that is a tuning shop itself. They can help you decide what parts are most suitable for your setup and ultimate goals. They can also (hopefully) provide installation advice if your guys run into something that is unusual for them in the rebuild process.
Third, I would really double check how many 997.1 TT motors your guys have rebuilt from the ground up especially if you are going to tinker with performance cranks, cams and whatnot. Are they capable of doing what needs to be done to the ECU to get it "right"? If it's not a big shop and they make their bread and butter doing brakes, oil changes and other routine stuff, rebuilding one of these can quickly turn into a science project. My car sat in a "qualified" shop for seven months after being taken apart before I finally demanded that it be transported to Phoenix where Evoms did the rebuild. I think they had about 120 hours into the rebuild, reinstall and debugging which is a long time for a shop that's not set up to devote those levels of resources to a singular project. Also, think about what happens when you sell the car and you can say, " Joe Schmo at Shady Tree Motorsports did the rebuild", vs "John Bray at Evolution Motorsports (or something of that ilk) did the build". Your car's value at that point will in large measure be a function of the reputation of the builder. In short, if you have any doubts, get your motor into competent hands if not the entire car. What you spend in transportation will be a rounding error in the total project cost.
Good luck and keep the good attitude. Eventually, it will be a better car than it was. Best,
First, completely check every engine part for reusability and replace anything that's questionable. My motor had to come out a second time and be torn apart again when a systemic error code occurred indicating one of the vario cam actuators failed so we replaced both of them. We also replaced cam chain guides and some other stuff that was questionable. I won't even tell you about the third time when it developed coolant leaks. You can just watch $5K bills flying out of your wallet if you don't get it right the first time and sometimes you just don't know until you put it back together. Also, if you rebuild it like it's going to be a 1,000 hp monster (strengthened head bolts, gaskets, etc.) you can be be pretty sure it's not going to come apart again at 700.
Second, I would source all of the parts from a single vendor, preferably one that is a tuning shop itself. They can help you decide what parts are most suitable for your setup and ultimate goals. They can also (hopefully) provide installation advice if your guys run into something that is unusual for them in the rebuild process.
Third, I would really double check how many 997.1 TT motors your guys have rebuilt from the ground up especially if you are going to tinker with performance cranks, cams and whatnot. Are they capable of doing what needs to be done to the ECU to get it "right"? If it's not a big shop and they make their bread and butter doing brakes, oil changes and other routine stuff, rebuilding one of these can quickly turn into a science project. My car sat in a "qualified" shop for seven months after being taken apart before I finally demanded that it be transported to Phoenix where Evoms did the rebuild. I think they had about 120 hours into the rebuild, reinstall and debugging which is a long time for a shop that's not set up to devote those levels of resources to a singular project. Also, think about what happens when you sell the car and you can say, " Joe Schmo at Shady Tree Motorsports did the rebuild", vs "John Bray at Evolution Motorsports (or something of that ilk) did the build". Your car's value at that point will in large measure be a function of the reputation of the builder. In short, if you have any doubts, get your motor into competent hands if not the entire car. What you spend in transportation will be a rounding error in the total project cost.
Good luck and keep the good attitude. Eventually, it will be a better car than it was. Best,
Thanks for the great post. That's pretty much my attitude right now. As long as the motor is out, lets make her bulletproof. My car is at MaxRPM Motorsports. They're a 6-speed sponsor. Alex is definitely well known around these parts for his work on Porsche. He has six motors in his shop right now!
You should contact EVOMS and see if they can discount you their stage 1 motor build kit. Rods, head studs, heavy duty gaskets, pinning the camshafts, and even the intermediate gear all while keeping the 3.6L. A 3.8L can be a little overkill due to the different cam specs, but hey what do I know.
Not sure on the 3.8L either. Better low-mid range torque sounds good though...
Thanks for the tip on EVOMS. Most of my parts are from them. I bought the car out of Phoenix over 2 years ago. Had I known I would be where I am today with the car I would have had it shipped straight to EVOMS, modified, and then shipped up here to me in Seattle.
Not sure on the 3.8L either. Better low-mid range torque sounds good though...
Thanks for the tip on EVOMS. Most of my parts are from them. I bought the car out of Phoenix over 2 years ago. Had I known I would be where I am today with the car I would have had it shipped straight to EVOMS, modified, and then shipped up here to me in Seattle.
Thanks for the tip on EVOMS. Most of my parts are from them. I bought the car out of Phoenix over 2 years ago. Had I known I would be where I am today with the car I would have had it shipped straight to EVOMS, modified, and then shipped up here to me in Seattle.
Also, and let me preface this by saying that I don't know anything about the shop your car currently resides at so this is not a dig at them, when my car went to Evoms, the motor was completely disassembled, the pieces "stored" in a half dozen large Tupperware containers, the tranny was out and nothing was cataloged or whatever. The car itself was just a "roller" and I had lingering doubts it would ever run again. When the transporter arrived in Tempe, he dumped this mess in Evoms parking lot and I was later told the staff just stared and said, "Oh, $hit". Some parts were missing and others damaged, apparently in transit. In short, a real CF.
Bottom line, Evoms went above and beyond not only to sort everything out and make it right but to then meticulously turn the car into an incredibly strong runner. It was completely detailed and looked beautiful when I picked it up. The rebuilt motor comes with a one year warranty and now 7,500 miles, a dozen track days and $50K +/- later (including the 775 kit) I'm pleased to report it's running flawlessly. Moral of the story; it's never too late nor impossible to get your car to the guys who pretty much wrote the book on tuning Porsche TT's. I spent $1500 to move the car to Phoenix and it was probably the smartest money I spent in the project. Good luck,
Last edited by Steamboat; Sep 27, 2012 at 04:23 PM.
If you are seriously thinking about going "big bore" you should be setting your sights on 1000 hp or more. Anything less than that you can pretty well get with your 3.6 and an aggressive tune and build. When I checked into 3.8 and 4.0 upgrades they added at least $10K to the rebuild and it wasn't a simple "plug and play" despite what some might say. You definitely would want one of the big tuning houses to do the whole project. Lots of nuance involved.
Also, and let me preface this by saying that I don't know anything about the shop your car currently resides at so this is not a dig at them, when my car went to Evoms, the motor was completely disassembled, the pieces "stored" in a half dozen large Tupperware containers, the tranny was out and nothing was categorized or whatever. The car itself was just a "roller" and I had lingering doubts it would ever run again. When the transporter arrived in Tempe, he dumped this mess in Evoms parking lot and I was later told the staff just stared and said, "Oh, $hit". Some parts were missing and others damaged, apparently in transit. In short, a real CF.
Bottom line, Evoms went above and beyond not only to sort everything out and make it right but to then meticulously turn the car into an incredibly strong runner. It was completely detailed and looked beautiful when I picked it up. The rebuilt motor comes with a one year warranty and now 7,500 miles, a dozen track days and $50K +/- later (including the 775 kit) I'm pleased to report it's running flawlessly. Moral of the story; it's never too late nor impossible to get your car to the guys who pretty much wrote the book on tuning Porsche TT's. I spent $1500 to move the car to Phoenix and it was probably the smartest money I spent in the project. Good luck,
Also, and let me preface this by saying that I don't know anything about the shop your car currently resides at so this is not a dig at them, when my car went to Evoms, the motor was completely disassembled, the pieces "stored" in a half dozen large Tupperware containers, the tranny was out and nothing was categorized or whatever. The car itself was just a "roller" and I had lingering doubts it would ever run again. When the transporter arrived in Tempe, he dumped this mess in Evoms parking lot and I was later told the staff just stared and said, "Oh, $hit". Some parts were missing and others damaged, apparently in transit. In short, a real CF.
Bottom line, Evoms went above and beyond not only to sort everything out and make it right but to then meticulously turn the car into an incredibly strong runner. It was completely detailed and looked beautiful when I picked it up. The rebuilt motor comes with a one year warranty and now 7,500 miles, a dozen track days and $50K +/- later (including the 775 kit) I'm pleased to report it's running flawlessly. Moral of the story; it's never too late nor impossible to get your car to the guys who pretty much wrote the book on tuning Porsche TT's. I spent $1500 to move the car to Phoenix and it was probably the smartest money I spent in the project. Good luck,

I'm plenty confident in my shop. They've worked very closely with Evoms in the past. His daily is a 800whp 996TT.
I've been thinking about the 775 kit as well. I have all of the 700 kit stuff from Evoms, including the underdrive pulley from the 775 kit. I wouldn't need a whole lot more to get there.





