PSS10 Settings (997.1 Turbo)
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PSS10 Settings (997.1 Turbo)
Hello all!
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</O
I am getting ready to have a set of PSS10s installed on my 997.1 Turbo. Does anyone have any recommended setting that are tried and proven?<O</O
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Also, I will doing an aggressive alignment. Anyone have alignment setting that are also recommended? <O</O
<O</O
Thanks,<O</O
SZ <O</O
<O
</OI am getting ready to have a set of PSS10s installed on my 997.1 Turbo. Does anyone have any recommended setting that are tried and proven?<O
</O<O
</OAlso, I will doing an aggressive alignment. Anyone have alignment setting that are also recommended? <O
</O<O
</OThanks,<O
</OSZ <O
</O
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Are the PSS10's with the PASM? If so, there is no setting really, unless you go to a DSC module made by TPC Racing or other tuners who have modified the PASM bos. As for alignments, you can go mild to wild and if you do a search you will find many threads on it.
Cheers.
Cheers.
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yes, PASM. I was thinking of lowering 15mm instead of the full 20mm. I am a bit unsure as to what alignment settings to use. I was thinking of using GT2 or GT2RS alignment settings?
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Do you or are you planning on tracking it a lot? if yes and you don't drive on the road too much on long drives, then going for the GT2 or GT2RS alignment is fine. If you drive on the street quite a bit, particularly more than 50 miles or so each time, those alignments may be a bit aggressive from a -ve camber perspective.
I run, 2 MM toe OUT and -ve 2deg camber in the front, about .8 MM toe IN in the rear with about -1.5 deg camber in the rear. It's a very aggressive track alignment and it will accelerate the wear on the insides of the front and rear tires, but I don't drive that much so I figure it's OK. With the front toe out and rear toe in, the car will catch the ruts necessitating me to keep both hands on the steering wheel. Much like a GT3, with my alignment set-up I need to pay attention at all times as the car will tramline fairly easily.
Going 15 or 20 MM will not effect the set-up much at all and it's preference for stance and the roads you drive on (it goes without saying that with the 20MM you will have more clearance). However, you need to make sure that there is a slight pitch forward, i.e., if the rear height is 26 1/2 the front should be 26 (from the ground to the fender opening above the wheel at the center line of the wheel).
One last advice, make sure that the alignment shop knows exactly what they are doing as these cars are a little harder than the run of the mill cars to set-up.
Hope this helped.
Cheers.
I run, 2 MM toe OUT and -ve 2deg camber in the front, about .8 MM toe IN in the rear with about -1.5 deg camber in the rear. It's a very aggressive track alignment and it will accelerate the wear on the insides of the front and rear tires, but I don't drive that much so I figure it's OK. With the front toe out and rear toe in, the car will catch the ruts necessitating me to keep both hands on the steering wheel. Much like a GT3, with my alignment set-up I need to pay attention at all times as the car will tramline fairly easily.
Going 15 or 20 MM will not effect the set-up much at all and it's preference for stance and the roads you drive on (it goes without saying that with the 20MM you will have more clearance). However, you need to make sure that there is a slight pitch forward, i.e., if the rear height is 26 1/2 the front should be 26 (from the ground to the fender opening above the wheel at the center line of the wheel).
One last advice, make sure that the alignment shop knows exactly what they are doing as these cars are a little harder than the run of the mill cars to set-up.
Hope this helped.
Cheers.
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Also read Can's article below. It should tell you all you need to know.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...red-turbo.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...red-turbo.html
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Do you or are you planning on tracking it a lot? if yes and you don't drive on the road too much on long drives, then going for the GT2 or GT2RS alignment is fine. If you drive on the street quite a bit, particularly more than 50 miles or so each time, those alignments may be a bit aggressive from a -ve camber perspective.
I run, 2 MM toe OUT and -ve 2deg camber in the front, about .8 MM toe IN in the rear with about -1.5 deg camber in the rear. It's a very aggressive track alignment and it will accelerate the wear on the insides of the front and rear tires, but I don't drive that much so I figure it's OK. With the front toe out and rear toe in, the car will catch the ruts necessitating me to keep both hands on the steering wheel. Much like a GT3, with my alignment set-up I need to pay attention at all times as the car will tramline fairly easily.
Going 15 or 20 MM will not effect the set-up much at all and it's preference for stance and the roads you drive on (it goes without saying that with the 20MM you will have more clearance). However, you need to make sure that there is a slight pitch forward, i.e., if the rear height is 26 1/2 the front should be 26 (from the ground to the fender opening above the wheel at the center line of the wheel).
One last advice, make sure that the alignment shop knows exactly what they are doing as these cars are a little harder than the run of the mill cars to set-up.
Hope this helped.
Cheers.
I run, 2 MM toe OUT and -ve 2deg camber in the front, about .8 MM toe IN in the rear with about -1.5 deg camber in the rear. It's a very aggressive track alignment and it will accelerate the wear on the insides of the front and rear tires, but I don't drive that much so I figure it's OK. With the front toe out and rear toe in, the car will catch the ruts necessitating me to keep both hands on the steering wheel. Much like a GT3, with my alignment set-up I need to pay attention at all times as the car will tramline fairly easily.
Going 15 or 20 MM will not effect the set-up much at all and it's preference for stance and the roads you drive on (it goes without saying that with the 20MM you will have more clearance). However, you need to make sure that there is a slight pitch forward, i.e., if the rear height is 26 1/2 the front should be 26 (from the ground to the fender opening above the wheel at the center line of the wheel).
One last advice, make sure that the alignment shop knows exactly what they are doing as these cars are a little harder than the run of the mill cars to set-up.
Hope this helped.
Cheers.
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Also read Can's article below. It should tell you all you need to know.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...red-turbo.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...red-turbo.html
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I run, 2 MM toe OUT and -ve 2deg camber in the front, about .8 MM toe IN in the rear with about -1.5 deg camber in the rear. It's a very aggressive track alignment and it will accelerate the wear on the insides of the front and rear tires, but I don't drive that much so I figure it's OK. With the front toe out and rear toe in, the car will catch the ruts necessitating me to keep both hands on the steering wheel. Much like a GT3, with my alignment set-up I need to pay attention at all times as the car will tramline fairly easily.
Anyone interested I'll post my setting for street driving with toe out front as set by Lucent the tuner; minus .02 degree front toe out (there is a formula to translate degree to mm as posted by 412bb). The factory setting is supposed to be 0.0 to plus .08 toe *in*. Toe out front makes steering and turn-in very quick and enjoyable - not for everyone though.
Last edited by cannga; Dec 15, 2012 at 09:53 PM.
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Diagram of my alignment setting - this is mainly for street driving. Note slight front toe out, which improves turn-in response and makes steering very quick, but not nervous. I love it because I;'ve found the stock Turbo steering to be a little "lazy." As always unless you are an advanced driver. please be careful with speed for the first few weeks after you have an alignment change.
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Great info! Thank you.
My coilovers just arrived yesterday. I expect to have them installed next week!
They are also installing my FVD Stage 2+ (+ headers, 82mm TB and Plennum).
-SZ
My coilovers just arrived yesterday. I expect to have them installed next week!
They are also installing my FVD Stage 2+ (+ headers, 82mm TB and Plennum).
-SZ
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With all mods, but particularly with major suspension work, an experienced setup man is absolutely *critical*. Please don't let a rookie tech touch the suspension; it's a recipe for headache and potential disaster.
Good luck with the toys and have fun, and be careful with the first few drives after installation. As I am sure you already know, "slow in fast out" is particularly true for our rear engine Turbo, and especially so with newly installed suspension. Lucent always tell me to take it easy the first few weeks after any suspension change, because I am an amateur driver I am sure.
Last edited by cannga; Dec 16, 2012 at 12:02 PM.
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You are welcome. The person who does the installation for you has plenty of experience with suspension setup and Bilstein installation right? It's not his first time?
With all mods, but particularly with major suspension work, an experienced setup man is absolutely *critical*. Please don't let a rookie tech touch the suspension; it's a recipe for headache and potential disaster.
Good luck with the toys and have fun, and be careful with the first few drives after installation. As I am sure you already know, "slow in fast out" is particularly true for our rear engine Turbo, and especially so with newly installed suspension. Lucent always tell me to take it easy the first few weeks after any suspension change, because I am an amateur driver I am sure.
With all mods, but particularly with major suspension work, an experienced setup man is absolutely *critical*. Please don't let a rookie tech touch the suspension; it's a recipe for headache and potential disaster.
Good luck with the toys and have fun, and be careful with the first few drives after installation. As I am sure you already know, "slow in fast out" is particularly true for our rear engine Turbo, and especially so with newly installed suspension. Lucent always tell me to take it easy the first few weeks after any suspension change, because I am an amateur driver I am sure.
Ok, just had the Bilsteins, drop links and swaybars installed. I had everything set to your specs except the ride height, I lowered 20mm all around. I drove it for about 7 miles and here is my feedback thus far:
1. A bit bouncy both in normal and sport mode.
2. I made a left turn at normal driving speed and lost a bit of traction. Definitely oversteered. This has me a bit worried.
I'm taking it back to the shop tomorrow to make sure nothing is loose. A heard a little rattle coming from the front passenger side as I went over bumps but it could be my mind playing tricks on me.
Is this normal with this setup?
Looks great though!!! I figured it will make a few more trips to the shop before we dial the suspension in right.
Your feedback is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Angel
Last edited by SUB-ZERO; Jan 29, 2013 at 07:11 PM.
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Ok, just had the Bilsteins, drop links and swaybars installed. I had everything set to your specs except the ride height, I lowered 20mm all around. I drove it for about 7 miles and here is my feedback thus far:
1. A bit bouncy both in normal and sport mode.
2. I made a left turn at normal driving speed and lost a bit of traction. Definitely oversteered. This has me a bit worried.
I'm taking it back to the shop tomorrow to make sure nothing is loose. A heard a little rattle coming from the front passenger side as I went over bumps but it could be my mind playing tricks on me.
Is this normal with this setup?
Looks great though!!! I figured it will make a few more trips to the shop before we dial the suspension in right.
1. A bit bouncy both in normal and sport mode.
2. I made a left turn at normal driving speed and lost a bit of traction. Definitely oversteered. This has me a bit worried.
I'm taking it back to the shop tomorrow to make sure nothing is loose. A heard a little rattle coming from the front passenger side as I went over bumps but it could be my mind playing tricks on me.
Is this normal with this setup?
Looks great though!!! I figured it will make a few more trips to the shop before we dial the suspension in right.
1. Yes stiffer spring will always make a car feel "bouncy" and Bilstein is no exception. This is the law of physics: you are trading ride for handling and there is no way around it. That said, give it a few weeks, I predict that you will get used to it and it will become as the best daily driver you ever own. I've driven my car with Bilstein for 40,000 plus miles on LA streets and have no problem whatsoever, and I am not particularly young.
That said, there are other factors that will increase or decrease this stiffness:
A. What tire are you using and what pressure are you running? What does the differential TPMS read? 0 throughout?
B. Which sway bar and which drop link? What are your settings, front and rear?
C. Are you on 20" or 19" wheel?
2. Oversteer: Drive the car carefully at first and give it some time, say a few weeks. You will get used to it and will be able to make more accurate observation.
Unless you make sudden changes (braking in middle of curve, off throttle in middle of curve), for me it is *extremely* hard to induce oversteer at street speed in our Turbo, unless you are at extreme street speed of course. IMHO: you might be right but, as mentioned, slow down and give yourself a few weeks to get used to the new suspension setup; your observation and adjustment then will be more reliable, IMHO.
Pro's and very very advanced drivers give suspension evaluation and feedback in their sleep; for amateurs I think it takes us weeks to make reliable observation.
3. Rattle: Do have the car checked but yes, when you go over bumps in parking lot, the spring makes noise as it moves within the spring seats vertically.
Noise at slow speed, on bumps, and at extreme steering angle **may** be an annoying normal. (I think it's primarily the spring moving within the seats, but there have been other explanations proposed.) Noise at high speed, say above 10mph, and on smooth road, is never normal. Either way have the car checked by a pro to make sure everything is ok.
4. Ride height: Just make sure your measurement is accurate and it *is* only 20mm you are lowering. You have checked using the measurement method (this is the *only* way to make accurate measurement) in my Bilstein thread? Severe lowering alters the 3D relationship of the suspension links and may cause harm (altered suspension behavior, broken link, etc.). It's doable, up to around 30mm, but don't suggest ever lowering more than 20mm.
Good luck, drive carefully, and have fun. I am sure you already know "slow in, fast out" - universal truth that's even truer
when you switch to a more aggressive suspension.
Last edited by cannga; Jan 30, 2013 at 07:27 PM.
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First congrats - stiffer is the way the Turbo is meant to feel for a number of Porsche enthusiasts (partly why guys on GT2/GT3 forum have nothing but disdain for the stock Turbo's softness).
1. Yes stiffer spring will always make a car feel "bouncy" and Bilstein is no exception. This is the law of physics: you are trading ride for handling and there is no way around it. That said, give it a few weeks, I predict that you will get used to it and it will become as the best daily driver you ever own. I've driven my car with Bilstein for 40,000 plus miles on LA streets and have no problem whatsoever, and I am not particularly young.
That said, there are other factors that will increase or decrease this stiffness:
A. What tire are you using and what pressure are you running? What does the differential TPMS read? 0 throughout?
B. Which sway bar and which drop link? What are your settings, front and rear?
C. Are you on 20" or 19" wheel?
2. Oversteer: Drive the car carefully at first and give it some time, say a few weeks. You will get used to it and will be able to make more accurate observation.
Unless you make sudden changes (braking in middle of curve, off throttle in middle of curve), for me it is *extremely* hard to induce oversteer at street speed in our Turbo, unless you are at extreme street speed of course. IMHO: you might be right but, as mentioned, slow down and give yourself a few weeks to get used to the new suspension setup; your observation and adjustment then will be more reliable, IMHO.
Pro's and very very advanced drivers give suspension evaluation and feedback in their sleep; for amateurs I think it takes us weeks to make reliable observation.
3. Rattle: Do have the car checked but yes, when you go over bumps in parking lot, the spring makes noise as it moves within the spring seats vertically.
Noise at slow speed, on bumps, and at extreme steering angle **may** be an annoying normal. (I think it's primarily the spring moving within the seats, but there have been other explanations proposed.) Noise at high speed, say above 10mph, and on smooth road, is never normal. Either way have the car checked by a pro to make sure everything is ok.
4. Ride height: Just make sure your measurement is accurate and it *is* only 20mm you are lowering. You have checked using the measurement method (this is the *only* way to make accurate measurement) in my Bilstein thread? Severe lowering alters the 3D relationship of the suspension links and may cause harm (altered suspension behavior, broken link, etc.). It's doable, up to around 30mm, but don't suggest ever lowering more than 20mm.
Good luck, drive carefully, and have fun. I am sure you already know "slow in, fast out" - universal truth that's even truer when you switch to a more aggressive suspension.
1. Yes stiffer spring will always make a car feel "bouncy" and Bilstein is no exception. This is the law of physics: you are trading ride for handling and there is no way around it. That said, give it a few weeks, I predict that you will get used to it and it will become as the best daily driver you ever own. I've driven my car with Bilstein for 40,000 plus miles on LA streets and have no problem whatsoever, and I am not particularly young.
That said, there are other factors that will increase or decrease this stiffness:
A. What tire are you using and what pressure are you running? What does the differential TPMS read? 0 throughout?
B. Which sway bar and which drop link? What are your settings, front and rear?
C. Are you on 20" or 19" wheel?
2. Oversteer: Drive the car carefully at first and give it some time, say a few weeks. You will get used to it and will be able to make more accurate observation.
Unless you make sudden changes (braking in middle of curve, off throttle in middle of curve), for me it is *extremely* hard to induce oversteer at street speed in our Turbo, unless you are at extreme street speed of course. IMHO: you might be right but, as mentioned, slow down and give yourself a few weeks to get used to the new suspension setup; your observation and adjustment then will be more reliable, IMHO.
Pro's and very very advanced drivers give suspension evaluation and feedback in their sleep; for amateurs I think it takes us weeks to make reliable observation.
3. Rattle: Do have the car checked but yes, when you go over bumps in parking lot, the spring makes noise as it moves within the spring seats vertically.
Noise at slow speed, on bumps, and at extreme steering angle **may** be an annoying normal. (I think it's primarily the spring moving within the seats, but there have been other explanations proposed.) Noise at high speed, say above 10mph, and on smooth road, is never normal. Either way have the car checked by a pro to make sure everything is ok.
4. Ride height: Just make sure your measurement is accurate and it *is* only 20mm you are lowering. You have checked using the measurement method (this is the *only* way to make accurate measurement) in my Bilstein thread? Severe lowering alters the 3D relationship of the suspension links and may cause harm (altered suspension behavior, broken link, etc.). It's doable, up to around 30mm, but don't suggest ever lowering more than 20mm.
Good luck, drive carefully, and have fun. I am sure you already know "slow in, fast out" - universal truth that's even truer
when you switch to a more aggressive suspension.Question. They mentioned that they were going to align the car taking into account a 190-200lb driver (me). Did you account for the driver when you aligned your Turbo?
I dropped the Turbo off at the shop a few hours ago. The guys are going to look everything over once more to be on the safe side.
I'll provide an update as soon as I get back in the seat! As always, thanks for your support!
-SZ