I posted this in the GT3/GT2/GT forum but I wanted to post it in here as well...

I have a 2008 GT2 with the EVOMSiT 670 kit (drsullivan's old car) and am looking at building the engine in it and have a few questions.

1. What are the best aftermarket connecting rods? I know EVOMS has some but was wondering if there are any others I should look at?

2. Any recommendations on head studs? Brand, length, etc...

3. Anything else I should consider changing at the same time? From what I've read the pistons and crank should be fine so am not worried about them really. I'm not shooting for 1000+hp so I figure if I change the two weak spots of the rods and head studs I should be pretty well set.

Any other tips or reccomendations are appreciated as well. Thanks.

 

As important as what you are putting into your motor, is who is doing the actual build. Specifically, how many 997.1 TT's have they actually done and does the shop have a dyno for testing and break-in procedures?

John Bray at Evoms did mine in 2011 and it has been rock-solid for 15,000+ miles, many of them on the track, ever since. We used Carrillo rods, ARP bearings, hellfire gaskets, and strengthened head bolts. We also welded all the coolant pipes as a preventive measure and the Carrillo rods require the oil pump to be re-clearenced. That isn't a complex job but it needs to be really right and you probably don't want your's to be the first (or second) one some machine shop down the street has attempted. Please let me know if I can provide any additional info. Best,

 

I had my engine rebuilt by FVD and they used Carrillo rod's, Mahle 3.8ltr pistons and liners, Shrick cams and a GT3 RSR oil pump. The rest of the parts are stock.


I also had all of my coolant connections welded.

 

carrillo rods racewear headstuds.

what are you running for fuel? e85 will want a full system overhaul, large injectors, pumps and lines. proefi standalone gives you greater flexibility in tuning and running flex fuel. intake setup? turbos? once this is all done the tran will need to be looked at to handle the power as well as the diff and axles.

easy to build a 1000 hp motor not so easy to get the power were you want it and not break the driveline

 

Contact Todd @Protomotive. His shop is very close to you. Majority of the built motors out there were either done by him or the parts came from him.

1) Pauter Rods work perfect. No clearance issues that require shaving like carillo rods.

2) Protomotive has their own headstuds and fab the case for them as well.

3)I would do the pinned regrind cams as well, valve springs, 3.8 mahle kit since the motor is open already. A couple other small things too (PM TTDude, he knows these motors very well too)

 

Thanks for the help guys. I was unaware of the need to grind on the Carillo rods so would like to avoid that. In general I'm not going for a sky high build quite yet, but I want the base to be good so I can push it higher and not have to worry about it.

I'll do some calling around tomorrow to figure out some details.

 

"Clearancing" is a very poor substitute for exchanging the turbo oil pump for the more expensive RSR pump. Are you really OK with grinding the turbo pump casing ? Seems a bad place to go cheap. Your engine, your money. Best of luck.

 

There's a lot of 1200+ whp cars with pauter rods that have no issues. You don't need carillo rods

 

I agree--Pauter makes a beautiful product, which is, in my opinion, every bit the equal of Carillo, or anyone else. My point was there are those who have used a particular Carillo H-beam rod that collides with the stock Turbo oil pump who have "solved" the problem by attacking the pump with a die grinder. The real prize winners are the mental defectives who ground off the rod radius. These morons apply such fixes instead of simply buying the Carillo rods that don't hit the pump, or
buying a fine set of Pauters. This is why you should DO YOUR HOME WORK before you let anybody touch your very expensive, very complicated Mezger engine.


Check Please.

 

Sorry--I'm back, with a question that's puzzled me for quite a while. Rod sectional shape. I think I know that h-beam rods in wet sump engines incur greater drag and thus higher parasitic HP losses than do tapered rods. My question is, in a "dry sump" (inappropriate term, I think) does the h-beam suffer the same higher-than taper-section losses, or not? There are a great many very knowledgeable folks here on the Six who know the answer to this most pressing question of the decade. Please share your wisdom.


Sorry for the semi-highjack. Back to the bar.

 

From what I've heard carillo will not shave or change the size of there rod for the 997tt engine. So your forced to shave it down if you go that route. I'm sure you can change the pump, but it's not worth all the headache/extra costs when the pauter rod works fine. I see where your coming from though as some people don't know about that issue until they get to that point or hear from there installer what they had to do to make it fit. If it doesn't fit don't install it

 

i think tim941nyc would disagree with you. the pauter rods don't have enough end cap material to keep the bolts from separating on huge power builds. since he dynos 1400+ rwhp and clearances his oil pump to run carrillo rods i think he has proven it can be done safely.

there arent ANY carillo rods that won't contact the oil pump without clearancing since they are a true h beam unlike the pauters . the reason is the carillo have beefier end caps and larger stronger mid sections which the paupers lack. while pauper makes a nice rod for 100$ difference in cost its a no brainer which to get

to insinuate that anyone who goes outside the box or uses a non typical product is a moron shows how little you know of building a huge hp car.

 

I never said carillo won't work if you read my post. I said pauters have worked fine. I have spoken with tim on the phone before, very nice guy. He does like the carillo rods, but I havnt heard of any issues with pauter rods so why not use them? I don't think everyone plans to run 1400whp. 1200whp would be my max. Lol

 

I'm going to have my Rturbo motor rebuilt at the end of this coming track season. I am shooting for durability/reliability as a primary goal since 90% of use is track. I just acquired a GT3RSR crankshaft and RSR oil pump. We will be using Carillo rods along with Mahle 3.8 piston/sleeves. Nothing crazy, pretty straight forward. If I recall correctly, the RSR pump will need to be clearanced very slightly to clear the Carrilos but apparently it's no biggie and done all the time.

 

32krazy!--Both your reading comprehension and your manners need a little work. I did not insinuate ANYTHING about going outside the box or using non-typical parts. My reference was to those "engine builders", at least two of whom have been unhappily documented here and on Rennlist. The third of which I am personally aware involved a friend and a shop that was but is no longer a sponsor here. That shop gave my pal a scary-low price for the build, which became a six month plane crash. All three of these "professional" engine builders all did the same stupid stupid thing, to wit, replaced many reciprocating parts, sent others out to various shops, then re-assembled the engine without appropriate measurements or checks, and then started/ran/drove/chassis dyno'ed them with predictable bad results. The worst of the bunch even announced that the "funny ticking sound" was normal in a rebuild, and everything would "self-clearance" in short order.


Using new, new-design, or non-typical parts is not only okay, it's how a lot of progress gets made. It is the essence of hot rodding. But to do it without using the most basic of smart mechanical practices makes the culprit a moron. Period.