Guys,

My car has a Clutchmasters stage 3 twin disc clutch in it now. It is borderline undriveable - especially when hills come into play. Folks with Carrera GT consider it significantly more challenging to drive with the on/off nature. I'm going with Sachs 2.5 but need to pick a flywheel.

1) Dual mass flywheel. Probably the easiest of the options to drive and also quietest. Should also give better shock insulation for crankshaft pulley. Most expensive option by about $1k

2) GT3rs single mass flywheel. $1k cheaper. Less crankshaft pulley insulation. But I do have the prodrive pulley so its on there pretty good. It will be a little harder to drive but with Sachs single disc clutch I'm thinking it will feel orders of magnitude easier to drive than my existing twin disc anyhow.

What do you guys think - should I save the $ and get the GT3rs single mass flywheel? Pro's and con's?

 

No experience or opinions on this?

 

It really comes down to your use and tolerance. There are pro's and cons. I can tell you the Sachs drives like stock. Much better than the stage 3 in my opinion. With it you can do a LWFW and proper sprung disc for a nice compromise on all. And it will hold a solid 750hp. Many have 800 kits with it.

Give me a call and I will gladly go over details with you.
Sam

 

I've got a flywheel that's pretty good used. Somewhat local to you too. On me if you're interested.

 

I have a 964RS lightweight flywheel on mine with a Sachs 2.5 clutch. Overall the difference in acceleration is worth it to me. 1st is nuts, 2nd is amazing. In the summer it sometimes rattles with the AC on and if I lug it in 5th or 6th on slow acceleration it sounds terrible (as a member on this forum has pointed out in previous threads).

I'd probably do it again as the engine response is amazing now, but there are some drawbacks as listed above.

 

I'm a little confused as to why you say the GT3/single mass flywheel is $1,000 cheaper than the 996/997 turbo dual mass flywheel? You can get the dual mass flywheel for under $1,000 if you look around. List price on it is $1,200.

Sorry if I am mis-reading this but sounds like you may be getting gouged.

 

Pros are engine spins up much quicker and it makes the cars throttle response feel alive especially for modded cars with larger turbos and trick exhausts,

Cons are its little bit more noisy but for me it gives the car much more character and if driven properly the extra noise is easily managed out. I have a LWFW and absolutely love it.

I wouldn't have it for driving in rush hour traffic day to day other than for the odd journey though where its fine but there are better cars for that sort of thing. This cars for tracks and autobahn cross continent jaunts.

 

Sachs 764PP/ GT3RS 4.0 disc/ 964RS LWFW

Unbeatable combo for anything up to 700hp or so. The 4.0 disc is very quiet. Perfect modulation especially when combined with GT2 clutch hydraulics. I'd say it's easier to drive than the stock assist clutch. Zero noise with A/C off, just a tiny bit of occasional rattle with A/C on. 20lbs lighter that stock DMFW clutch. Have your ECU coded for a LWFW to prevent any stalling issues.

 

Thanks for all the feedback. I thought this job would be cheaper. Below is the breakdown of the job from my shop. This is with Sachs 2.5 and stock dual mass flywheel. I suppose the flywheel is in fact under $1000. But notice how much cheaper the bill is in the 2nd invoice which is from a car I found on eBay. Apparently that job used the single mass flywheel which is what got me wondering...

But now looking at them side by side it appears the real $ difference is the price of the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. The other job has the whole kit for $1325. Whereas my quote they total $2200!

 

While a LWFW is pretty light, the DMFW is also quite light considering.

The DMFW acts in part as a crankshaft dampener and helps isolate the crank from the more sudden and severe loads and shocks.

By buying a less expensive LWFW you are saving FW money while betting crankshaft money.

Frankly my gambling instincts would have me making the opposite bet. Spend a bit more for a DMFW and to increase the odds of avoiding a crankshaft failure down the road.

 

Agree with this.


I installed the triple carbon ERP clutch on my car, I would think that the engagement of this setup (above) makes more sense.


Sometimes, I want to just redline my car and completely drop the clutch, this is what the clutch was designed for right? How about drivetrain limits? My point is over upgrading when unnecessary.


Go toward a stock setup with increased parts around that same philosophy. (increased pressure with pressure plates ect.)

 

Unless a built engine is in your future you don't want more clutch than the "Sachs 2.5". Everything is a trade off, and the clutch/flywheel is a big deal when it comes to the overall enjoyment of the car.

If you blip the throttle to rev match downshifts a lot (5k rev match?) then maybe the lightweight flywheel would be worth something to you.

I'm running The Sachs 2.5 kit from AWE for like ~1700 and re-used my OEM flywheel. To be honest I couldn't even tell anything had changed. Only difference was the clutch held the power. I'm a big fan of doing the minimum necessary, you can go down a rabbit hole and spend a lot of money and get zero return very easily.

 

Show me a crankshaft failure as a result of a LWFW.... A Mezger on every RS comes with a LWFW from the factory. If you use a factory RS sprung disc you have nothing to worry about. The springs on the disc dampen the shock loads.. I wouldn't call the DMFW light. It's almost 25lbs heavier than the 964RS FW and 28lbs heavier than a Cup FW.

 

Make sure you guys know what your getting. Don't go blindly buying a "2.5" kit, whatever that means. Make sure you know what is in the kit. There is no such thing as a 2.5 designation by Sachs. You want a Sachs Motorsport 764PP and a sprung disc if using a LWFW, or a solid disc for a dual mass. Don't get ripped off. The 764PP/4.0disc/964RSlwfw with all the bolts, ring gear, throw out bearing and guide tube is right at $2k. These are all OEM factory parts using the strongest available pressure plate Sachs makes. No, this is not a 2.x kit.

 

A big Plus one !