I've recently purchased the GT2 Slave conversion from AMS,
Just wondering if many people can chime in with how the install was, and if they reused the stock slave rod, or if they used another version.

I've been in contact with AMS and they say that the stock one should be good, but i know with similar kits, the rods have been modified to account for a difference in length.

I know the stock one will probably work, but it seems that may make the engagement point very low.

(I guess people who have the EVOMS and other kits can chime in as well.)

Thanks!

 

rod length doesn't have anything to do with engagement point. its a hydraulic system. the fluid makes up for any rod length difference until you get so short it blows the rod out of the slave.
why not just use the oem gt2 setup? its better uses all oem parts and works like a charm. best part is its usually cheaper than any of the bracket setups.
i did the drill and tap method and spent less than 600$ for everything. did the install myself

 

Thanks for the reply.
I was going to go the OEM route, however when pricing everything the kit didn't end up being much more... (with most of the dealers, shipping & Canadian Duty fees)
I've actually followed your threads quite a bit on the conversion and it was my path before I got a quote from some of the places that sell the parts.

I'm aware of the slave length, but I see too many discussions indicating that a longer rod is better
All jokes aside, I have no reason to doubt that the stock rod is suitable, just wondering why the other kits include a rod; and what causes so many discussions on the topic

 

most folks do the conversion the same time they do the clutch. if they change to a triple disk or clutch masters style of clutch the engagement point changes. on a cable operated style slave form the old muscle car days it is a simple rod length change. hydraulics changed all that.
i have the oem and a custom made rod that i tried. no difference at all. the only way to effectively change the engagement point is to have an adjustable clutch pedal.

i sourced all my parts from pelican parts. cheapest around.

 

Awesome, thanks again for the insight.
I'll go ahead and install as directed.

 

32krazy is correct rod length does nothing for engagement height. i had an adjustable one and only thing changing lengths did was make it pop out. to change engagement travel you need a different master cylinder. i have not tried this yet but i want to.

 

We use a longer pin to correct for the difference in slave cylinder location. It's correct that the displacement of the slave cylinder is dependent on the geometry of the master and pedal, as well as the relative sizes of the master and slave cylinder. But the position of the clutch release arm achieved with that displacement will vary with the bracket design and length of the pin.

 

Agreed. Has anyone looked into an alternate master cylinder to swap in? It'd be really useful in twin and triple disk clutch setups on this platform.