Can someone explain why the oil should be at operating temperatures before draining?
And like the 996 do we turn the engine over with a fuse pulled to prevent running?
I can't find a DIY for the 997.1 TT . Closest I found
http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo...-diy-pics.html

Are there any gotchas beside the mad oil flow that may or may not be really hot?

TIA

 

For shops okay. I think operating temperature is way too hot for DIY. Ive done all the oil changes on my m3 at with just a 5 minute warm up. It's enough to have the oil flow freely. I haven't done the changes on my TT but I've read the flow is forceful. If the catch pan isn't quite lined up, hot oil can spray all over and If you're lying on the ground, you won't be able to get out of the way.

 

Have you seen a DIY?

 

I've seen one.. Let me find it..

 

Thanks I'd appreciate it.

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-m97-70-a.html

That's the link, right here in the DIY section. Only thing I'd add its that it's also possible to drain the 2 turbos by removing the inlet pipe, but didn't drain enough to be worth the effort IMO….only a couple ounces of the 8+ quarts.

 

Here's an excellent diy video

 

Thanks
I've done oil changes on many cars before but was wondering if there were any specifics like pulling fuses and why?
Hot oil, why? I know it flows better but it very light oil and it flows better well on its own. But Thanks again.

 

If you are going to do your own servicing you should at least do it right. Porsche calls for the oil to be at (or above) a certain temperature. Really it should at least be hot enough to check the oil level after filling the engine with the specified amount of oil to ensure the electronic oil level system is reporting the correct oil level.

There is no factory requirement to pull the fuse. The engine cranks so slowly on the starter motor (approx. 75 RPMs) that at this speed the gear pump is not very effective. I note with my 996 Turbo when I start the engine initially the oil pressure jumps a bit then actually falls as the engine cranks and doesn't rise until the engine fires and RPMs rise.

The only caution the factory has for the 996 Turbo oil change (and this may apply to the 997 Turbo at least with the Mezger engine) is to pour or add the oil slowly to the oil tank to give the oil time to drain into the crankcase.

New sealing rings should be used.

While the amount of oil drained from the turbos is small the idea is to ensure the same amount of oil drains from the drain holes as some kind of way to check turbo oiling is ok.

After you have everything buttoned up and the engine has sat a few minutes then fire the engine up and let it idle until the engine/oil is hot enough to take an oil level reading. Confirm the oil level reading agrees with the amount of oil that was added.

As an aside, I like to ensure all warning lights go out and the engine sounds ok. Not so much because I fear I made a mistake -- start up one of these engines without oll and by the time you hear the engine the engine is toast -- it is just habit. Also, I can't help but as I walk behind the car to gather up my tools and clean up to take a look under the car for any signs of any oil leak. Might also mention here I look under the car after I have added the oil but before I start the engine. Years ago a friend of mine changed the oil in his motorcycle engine. As he was preparing to start the engine he (or I, I don't really remember now) spotted a growing puddle of fresh oil on the ground under the engine. He had forgotten to fit the drain plug.

Back to the oil level check. With my 996 Turbo the factory manual says to after a 20 minute hot oil drain period 7.8l of oil should be added to the engine. Then when the oil level is checked the reading should be at the max. line. Not above it. And not below it. This confirms the oil level system is working properly.

 

I changed oil on a new motor. First time the oil looked relatively clean. Next time, few thousand miles after the first 3,000 mile change and immediately after 15 mile drive in hot weather. There were very fine particles in drain pan. I did drive it much harder after the break-in so that may be the difference. I wore a face shield, rubber gloves and long sleeves. Downside, oil was sprayed everywhere. Presumably the oil filter would have captured the debris eventually.

 

subscribed

 

DO NOT USE THAT TYPE OF OIL PAN.
Watch how fast that oil come out. Also notice how the drain pain starts to overflow when he cuts to the next seen. Look at the floor while he is talking about the oil filter to see that it did overflow and make a big mess.
Also, you need to replace the small o-ring at the tip of the oil filter housing. The filter kit does NOT come with this o-ring. You have to order that part separate. You should also replace the crush washers for the crank case and oil tank.

 

Great point about the pan. I have the same. When I decide to change it myself, I was going to cut the opening larger to accommodate the flow of oil.

 

Here's a summary (attached) write-up someone did a while back..

I also have the same one, but I got this one just for doing oil changes on the turbo.. works great, and no chance of overflowing!



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Ive done all the oil changes on my m3 at with just a 5 minute warm up