After speaking with nearly every tuner over the winter about the direction I wanted to go with my 997.1TT cabriolet they all wanted me to ship my car to them to complete the instillation. This was not the route I wished to go however, I knew very little about the layout of my car.

After joining the forum and reaching out to Mitch at Cobb I dictated to him my desires and he recommended I contact Sam. The initial conversation lasted roughly two hours and once it was concluded I had plotted a course to what I believe is responsible performance given the depth in which I wanted to take the car. I would be doing these modifications myself along with the help of my Friend Nick


It wasn't long after that I concluded round 1 of the modifications Sam supplied:
Cobb
IPD plenum
82mm throttle body
Air filter

At that time I also installed
Tubi Race
AMS headers
CenterLock conversion with RS spyder wheels
HR sport springs.

Total time for the 1st round of modification took 8 hours.

 

Cant go wrong with Sam. Not just the best price and advice but you get your parts in a couple of days. Best guy with the best parts........
Good luck with the build.

 

As I knew July would be very warm and knowing I would be needing at the very minimum intercoolers to match my desired for spirited driving without compromising performance again I reached out to Sam for my 2nd round if modifications;

AMS Alpha intercoolers
Cobb 1000cc injectors
LWFW and Clutch


I also acquired:
Turbo inlet pipes
Spark plugs
Sharkwerks elbows

For this phase the mill would be coming out and I would be pinning the coolant lines at this time.

As I neared completion I was going to dock the mill back into the car and let the turbos alone.
They very day I was finishing up I called Sam and decided to upgrade the turbos. Ironically this was the very same day Choi had told me he lost his mill. Naturally I had a few questions for him as my build mirrors his. However, I was in no way deterred from following through with upgrading the turbos, not to mention running the very same map from Sam that was in Choi's car at the time of the casualty.

The turbos showed the very next business day and I docked the mill that night.

Total time for these modifications 21 hours

 

I've put roughly 75 miles on the car since competing the build shaking it down. I haven't done any full power pulls as of yet. My initial observations are the car is more efficient to speed it seems so much smoother through the rpm range. I love the LWFW it makes blipping the throttle on shift a breeze.

The map is very safe ( rich) just logging the car during normal high way and city driving shows rich characteristics. I'll be doing some pulls and Sam will be modifying the map from there. The plan is to dial the map in conducive to my driving style from the logs then putting the car on the dyno for fine tuning. I will do this for both 93 octane as well as E85.

I wanted to thank Sam as everyone knows he's a pleasure to work with and a true asset to this community. I've been involved in several forums at various capacities and it's very rare to have a vendor like him.

Also thanks to the cobb guys Jon and Mitch for their support thus far. We have a lot more work to do and I know they are up to the task.

To my friend Aaron for supporting this project
And my Ace in the hole Nick. He helped me every step of the way.
Thanks to my wife for dealing with me for the last seven days haha.

 

I have a lot more picture if there is anything specific anyone wants to see

 

Really curious about the lwfw work, any pics or info would be of interest for me. Thinking about doing this to, but not sure if it's a diy, or how long the swap takes.

 

If you have access to a lift and a way to support the transmission it's a DIY. There are only 4 bolts that hold the dif/trans housing to the engine. Removing the pin from the fork is easy and if you tape the fork in place to install the pin it's very doable also. The torque specs are a little different from a dual mass set up and I can provide those if needed.

Most shops will want to pull the engine and the trans as a unit where as this is the way I did mine you can perform clutch/flywheel work with the engine in.

Id say it's a 5 hour job pulling the plastic, the driveshaft, trans brace, axel bolts, cross braces, and disconnecting the slave. I disconnected the fitting and left the slave attached to the trans and re bled the system.

You'll be working in a decent space and it may be easier to remarry the trans to the engine over head.

I have made my own clutch alignment tool and I can make others if anyone is interested.

I am very satisfied with the system the noise for me is enjoyable at idle.

I would reach out to Sam or he can chime in and provide exactly what components I installed. I know it's all the new RS components but I don't have the part numbers ect.

 

Congrats Ron! It truely is the greatest DYI project I have ever seen. Your car should be flying. Although we share the same map with similar hardware, your car should be faster than mine.


My new motor should be here sometime early August and hopefully back on the road by mid August. We will see.


If you are interested, I'm selling my lwfw along with 752PP and GT2 disc. I can sell you for a great price. Depends on your power level, you may need stronger PP and RS disc from Sam.

 

Awesome thread Ron. Good luck with your datalogs etc...

 

Thanks guys it was a lot of fun working on this platform. I've restored and modified a lot of cars and motorcycles, and as an engineer I'm always like why the hell did they do that. This wasn't the case with porsche, I was more like wow I can't believe they are doing that. There wasn't a single over tighten bolt nothing was a pain in the but. If you simply follow the order of operation everything went very smoothly.

Another note. I know the plastic elbows under the cooler have been known to fail, I replaced mine. In retrospect the Sharkwerks stainless elbows are very nice and nothing at all is to be taken from them they fit perfectly, however the plastic elbows found stock on the car are also very nice. Looking at the parts there must have been 8 tools and 16 slides required to make each one several hundred of thousands of dollars went into make them. This is of course pending they didn't make them in a mud base which I doubt.

 

Ron I gotta say you were faster than most all shops at this! Your attention to detail and ability will all be worth it with a solid runner. Ready to start logging and getting her dialed in!

 

I am amazed at how many true wrenchers there are on this forum. Awesome work.

I am happy when I change my own oil without issues...lol

 

I agree. I changed my own oil yesterday and was glad I only spilled a few hundred cc on the floor. I change it while the oil is cold because I'm too chicken to do it when the oil is warm like it's supposed to be done.

 

The trick is to dial that plug slowly and hopefully it drops and the falling oil doesn't smack it. You should alway change your oil after getting up to temp your contaminating the new oil more than what it's worth.

 

Can you explain what you mean by contaminating the new oil? I wasn't sure why it was supposed to be changed while hot but figured there must be some reason...