Hi Everyone,

I have recently been battling an emission test issue. I am having an issue with my "fuel tank ventilation" and "secondary-air system."

I have a Cobb tune and reflashed the car about a month ago with the Catted setup.

I drove the car for 120MI since the flash. 3+ hours. Drove the car gently for on 70mi stretch including stop and go traffic all the way up to cruising at 70mph maintaining a below 3K RPM. "I know, hard to do in a turbo." Turned the car off 4 times in efforts to force the secondary system to kick in with no success.

Since, I started the car twice "completely cold" over the past week and the codes still remain.

Do I have a bad gas cap or an air pump?

 

I believe you need this part. 99711002973

It does go bad

 

Have you had a chance to look into this further? I am getting the same codes, thinking of ordering the suggested by au2bahn part as well.

 

no update as of yet. I will try to replace the Gas Cap first before trying au2bahn's suggested part. I still think i need a few cold starts to trigger the Secondary pump sensor. I hope to resolve this this coming Sunday.

 

Hard to believe it is not cold enough in Colorado that the secondary air injection pump doesn't come on every time you cold start the engine.

Even in the mild (32F is about as cold as it gets) here in northern CA both my Boxster and 996 secondary air injection pump kicks on at cold start. And it doesn't take 32F either. Even under warmer temperature conditions the pumps kick on at cold start.

Thus I would hazard a guess that if at cold start the pump doesn't come on there is a pump problem. It is not getting power -- the connector was disturbed during some recent work, or a fuse is blown.

 

Secondary pump does turn on at cold start. I believe that the ecu needs to see the pump cycle a few times in conjunction with a drive cycle to clear its "not ready" emission code.

 

Are you getting "monitors not ready" errors? If you can map out a route and do the drive cycle as written you should be able to get everything ready. Highway speed driving won't do it (I thought a 200 mile trip at highway speeds would do it but it didn't). Also, 3000 rpm or less is important but also keeping speed at 60 mph or lower is required.

This worked for me:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.

Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.

Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.

Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.

 

Good luck with the Cobb tune. I couldn't ever make all codes clear with any of their tunes and wasted a lot of time driving and emailing them (save yourself the effort on this issue). I went back to my previous brand of tune to pass e testing. Had the car 'ready' in less than 10 minutes. Plus the time to swap injectors..... Wish I'd considered my need to etest every 2 years before going down this route.

 

Doobee really? I hate to hear that. I'm delaying my normal DIY winter maintenance trying to get this car to pass emissions.

Can anyone else relate to this issue with a Cobb flash?

I should have my gas cap tomorrow but, I wont be able to test it until Sunday.

 

How are you making out?

 

Not having much luck. Installed new gas cap did 4 cold starts and put another 100mi or so on the car. Still "Secondary Air pump" and "Gas ventilation" not ready. I decided to take the car to emission testing regardless of the status with no luck. They still sense a "Not Ready" status and hand me a emissions flyer.

I went to the local Porsche dealer and they said that they can clear the code but, it would take an hour of labor ($130) to do it. Of course, that is if there isn't any bad parts ect.

I did have "C0016 Powertrain DTC" code and decided to clear it and clear any other codes that existed. I will drive the car for the next few days and see if I can force this into ready status.

BTW, does anyone know how to use the Duramteric to force the Secondary Air pump on? I don't see an option with the car on or off. I would like to turn it on with the car off to ensure that i don't have a leak.

 

Have you tried flashing back to stock?

 

Unfortunately I can't. I have 1000cc injectors.

 

you may have to go with a bootleg smog

 

I know it's a pain but you might have to do the drive cycle again to reset the monitors. IIRC your DTC code and clearing the code will set the monitors to "not ready" and you have to start the process again. Did you try the 4-step drive cycle previously listed?