I want to do some track days in my Turb....but the PCCB's have me sweating.
I want to do some track days in my Turb....but the PCCB's have me sweating.
Is there a pad i can install that will ensure less damage on the rotors?
I know i can switch out for steels but before spending a few $k on something i'm going to rarely use i'd rather see if there is a viable option with what i already have.
Thanks in advance.
I know i can switch out for steels but before spending a few $k on something i'm going to rarely use i'd rather see if there is a viable option with what i already have.
Thanks in advance.
I never understood how people eat threw there brakes and rotors in some posts that I've read....I dive my car in sport mode most of the times on the track and to be honest it never really seems to cut into my driving...remember that if your line are clean and you don't drive like a idiot even with a casual slip of the rear end you really have to be on the verge of crashing for the system to kick in...now if your driving showing off and power sliding then yes it cuts down on the rear to straighten you out...3 years of track time and my brakes and rotors are like new...
Originally Posted by Brooklyn boosting
I never understood how people eat threw there brakes and rotors in some posts that I've read....I dive my car in sport mode most of the times on the track and to be honest it never really seems to cut into my driving...remember that if your line are clean and you don't drive like a idiot even with a casual slip of the rear end you really have to be on the verge of crashing for the system to kick in...now if your driving showing off and power sliding then yes it cuts down on the rear to straighten you out...3 years of track time and my brakes and rotors are like new...
PSM eats away at the rear pads/rotors in those situations. Step 1 in my car is turning the ignition on. Step 2 is turning PSM off. Since I've been doing that no noticeable decrease in rotor thickness.
You might not have as much power as others. PSM intervenes on my car simply driving straight at WOT. At the track, sometimes the fastest way around a tight corner requires oversteer/rotation of the rear end out beyond what PSM likes. And then sometimes I just like to carry a nice drift from time to time but it's rare.
PSM eats away at the rear pads/rotors in those situations. Step 1 in my car is turning the ignition on. Step 2 is turning PSM off. Since I've been doing that no noticeable decrease in rotor thickness.
PSM eats away at the rear pads/rotors in those situations. Step 1 in my car is turning the ignition on. Step 2 is turning PSM off. Since I've been doing that no noticeable decrease in rotor thickness.
Originally Posted by jazzwu
Hey there so you get PSM kicking in even going straight WOT? Would that still apply even on a stock car?
Of course with a poor road surface or
if it's raining or snowing it can easily kick in.
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At 570 whp I'm sure that's enough to break loose in any situation I'd like... like the above poster explained it's not worth taking it full off I as it's never really deactivated anyway... I know all about tight corner entry and exit to be honest that's not my driving style... I use hard brakes to enter turn slow entry until you feel weight transfer then gradually increase speed exiting the turn...porsche don't like to be thrown into turns which would cause rear brakes to straighten you out... if your in the track just to have some fun it really makes no difference... if your going max guns blazing then well your brakes are toast no matter what you do..
PASM kicks in on my car in a straight line too.
I don't track my car, but if I did/do.
The PCCB hats will come off, and steelies go on. Not worth an "experiment" in my opinion.. too costly and too many bad stories out there.
my .02
I don't track my car, but if I did/do.
The PCCB hats will come off, and steelies go on. Not worth an "experiment" in my opinion.. too costly and too many bad stories out there.
my .02
DONT worry about it.
Have dozens of clients with pccb that do just fine time and time again that are "above average" and there are no problems. If you have to ask advice on brakes on a forum you are not in the position to turn stability off.
Have dozens of clients with pccb that do just fine time and time again that are "above average" and there are no problems. If you have to ask advice on brakes on a forum you are not in the position to turn stability off.
For one or two track days, your PCCBs should be fine, depending on two things (1) your driving style - if moderate then good, if more aggressive beware and (2) the track configuration - high speed tracks with heavy brake zones and technical corners will punish your PCCBs (due to the heat generated and as mentioned PSM intervention), momentum tracks are easier on brakes.
From experience, I burnt through my rear PCCBs in one heavy track season (about 20 track days) as an advanced solo driver. Prior to that, my PCCBs were ok after 12 track days but I was in the intermediate run groups and not pushing the car as hard. My car also has PTV in addition to PSM so my rear rotors really get a work-out). For one or two track days, your PCCBs should be fine, however if you plan on doing more track days, I would highly recommend swapping to steel rotors. I use the Girodisc rotors setup, paired with Pagid Yellows RS29, works great. Enjoy!
From experience, I burnt through my rear PCCBs in one heavy track season (about 20 track days) as an advanced solo driver. Prior to that, my PCCBs were ok after 12 track days but I was in the intermediate run groups and not pushing the car as hard. My car also has PTV in addition to PSM so my rear rotors really get a work-out). For one or two track days, your PCCBs should be fine, however if you plan on doing more track days, I would highly recommend swapping to steel rotors. I use the Girodisc rotors setup, paired with Pagid Yellows RS29, works great. Enjoy!




