Alright, in the latest saga of getting my car's reliability back to OEM spec, I wanted to know what people have done to minimize the Y-pipe popping off of the coupler between the Y-pipe and the throttle body? I have a stock Y-Pipe (looking for an IPD or do88 if anyone is selling one) connected to a GT3 TB. I've tried three different t-bolt clamps without much success. I've read up on the EVOMs kit, but I'm not at the point of spending >$600 on that system. If someone has had good success on fixing this problem, can you link me to the parts that you've purchased and installed? I've cleaned everything off with CARB cleaner, wiped off any excess oil/etc., but I continue to have some issues. The coupler is the do88 coupler that came with the plenum and GT3 TB.

As I said above, links to the parts you've installed would be awesome. The TB --> Coupler is holding tight. The Coupler --> Y-pipe is a whole other story.

Thanks all!

 

Told ya it would take a bucket ....

Here brother : https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...3402ecs06a-13/

get these and teh 1/2" wide ones, get multiple and change after opening twice, don't over tighten tho ..... any clamp wider than the "lip" area will fail, positoining is everything .....

these are tested to 2.4 Bar/34Psi .... so I know they work ...

Good luck

 

Haha that’s too funny. I figured the bucket was needed for the install and not the popping off (which I had read about)

The install was nice and smooth. The popping off, not so much. Thanks for the tip. I’ll pick those up and give them a shot.

 

I would install a 997TT TB and call it a day.

 

Try Oetiker stepless screw clamps. They can be tightened up more than a worm drive (put anti seize on the threads so the stainless doesn't gall). Wide clamps aren't a good fit at the TB connections.

Part of the issue with this connection is on the other end of the y pipe. When the engine moves it wants to take the y pipe with it and the connections to the ICs have to flex. I like the AMS setup because it has more silicone and less rigid tube inside the engine bay. Plus the connection point is more convenient. Most y pipes reach down toward the cutouts in the body sides and have less hose to flex. Because these connections are usually at about 90 degrees to the movement of the motor those joints dont want to come apart and instead it wants to pull apart at the TB. Better engine mounts reduce this movement.

Which coupler are you using? Some are better than others. The new AMS one has a hump in it for a bit more flex and stretch.

 

I've tried everything, and eventually just got the EVOMS leak proof kit, 82mm GT3 TB, IPD Y-Pipe and Plenum.
Haven't looked back since. Definitely worth the cost and reliability piece of mind. Plus some added performance too - feels like maybe 30 more HP.

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Right now I’m using the do88 coupler. I’ll take a look at the AMS coupler and see if it’s available to purchase separately.

 

The factory parts work very well when assembled correctly. The throttle body has a groove machined into the throttle body and y-pipe. The coupler has a raised area that fits into the groove. Like an o-ring would. The tricky part is getting them to line up properly. I have some pictures on my phone that shows what the issues are.

The groove on the throttle body is 1/2" from the machined surface at the end of the throttle body. The coupler has the counterpart about 1/4" from the end of the coupler. So if you shove the coupler so it bottoms out on the back of the throttle body you are not matching up the groove to the raised portion of the coupler. If you are careful you can actually feel the coupler fall into the groove. Once there and the clamp directly over the groove, the coupler should not come off. I found the factory clamps, as well as some on the ones that come in intercooler kits, are very narrow. I went with aftermarket ones that are wider to make it easier to make sure the couple is squeezed into that groove and has plenty of pressure to keep it there.

Cleaning the surface is helpful. Another old school trick is to use Aquanet hair spray to help slide the coupler on easier. Then as it dries it is like having a "glue" holding it as well. I have used this a lot over the years and it seems to help. Always go back and tighten your clamps after every heat cycle for 3-4 cycles. If you use constant tension clamps or not. And it is always good to check the tension on the clamps from time to time. It's easy and may help keep everything happy longer.

It can be a pain to line up with the tight spaces in that engine bay. But take your time and you will get it all sorted. Good luck.

 

Thanks 86Merc. Those pictures are really helpful!

TT.BRN - I ordered those hose clamps and it looks like this issue is settled for now

Now onto the master cylinder which just started showing signs of age/wear this week. My wife says my car is like whack-a-mole.

 

BTW, I reached out to Evolution and their leak proof kit is out of stock. They are switching manufacturers so it may be several months (summer time) before they are available again.

 

Subscribed as I need to install my ipd plenum & gt3 throttle body.

 

I had this issue...

Replaced the tube itself with the newer Porsche style, and don't use any lubricant to get it on.

Zero issues after popping two clamps on the previous.

Porsche mechanic said once it pops off you have to replace it.

 

Shadow, do you have a part number you can share? I reached out to AMS to see if they sell the coupler by itself, but haven’t heard back yet. Looking for other options just in case this becomes a bigger headache.

 

Sorry .. misread 😬

I missed gt3 TB