One more for good measure ...

 

Here's one solution to installing a fuse--the fuse holder from Radio Shack. Just cut the red wires on the remote switch, and install the fuse holder in-line.

 

The Bussman-type fuse tap shown in DonL's picture doesn't fit well in the Aston's fuse box. Would inlining a 20 amp fuse in the red wire provide the same protection? I have the same set up now as dicktahoe showed in his pics and I really need to add a fuse in the circuit. Just want to be sure that the inline route provides the same protection. Thanks.

EDIT: Just saw dicktahoe's new post. I bought a fuse holder for a conventional cylindrical glass 20 amp fuse from Pep Boys. Planning on putting it inline with the red wire if that will suffice. Let me know if that'll do or not.

 

It fits fine in a '07 fuse box. Am I missing something?

 

I recall not being able to get it to fit because the fuse tap needed to fit within the fuse slot in an orientation in which the red wire faced inward into the fuse box, not outward as shown in your pic.

How does your switch operate? Is OEM operation (flaps close above 1500) provided when the switch is on or off? The functionality I am going for is: flaps always open as default (switch off); OEM operation only when I flip the switch on.

 

Yes, any type of fuse holder inserted into the red wire will work just fine. I chose the one shown in my picture, because it holds the same fuses as are used throughout the car. However, if the glass fuse blows, it causes no problem, so you could just replace it whenever.

With that said, there was another issue that has been brought up and that is "is the valve normally closed at start-up?" If so, then start-up would be quieter. My take is that with Fuse 22 in (or with the switch operated) you can hear the valve closing for about 10-seconds after the ignition is turned on. The valve doesn't close off the whole exhaust (like a potato in the tail pipe would do), it just closes (or bypasses) part of the exhaust to make it quieter, until you get above about 4,000 RPM.

Comments please?

 

Very Cool, and an easier and cleaner installation than the way I did it with a couple of Spade Lugs, and then having to install and inline fuse. Very Cool.

 

Okay, as an update, I installed the fuse adapter in the orientation shown by DonL and the switch did operate the way I wanted: loud as default, quiet when switch turned on. Not sure why it didn't work previously.

Thanks dicktahoe re: the info on the inline fuse. The flaps are open in OEM operation except in the 1500-4000 rpm range. Therefore, the car is quieter in the range of rpms in which one typically drives. The remote switch only lets you toggle between OEM operation and always-open operation of the flaps. Because the flaps are open during OEM operation below 1500 rpm, the car will be loud upon start up regardless of the switch setting.

 

Curious: Congrats on the car. It looks fantastic! Sorry about the exhaust flap diversion.

 

Racer_X---

I live for your diversions They are what keep good threads going! Besides, you and Tahoe gave great information.

 

As I recall, the "supply side" or battery side of the fuse box is near the relays, and the "load side" is the side nearer the center of the trunk. You want to install your devices on the load side and not on the supply side. That may be the reason it didn't work as you first tried it. Just a thought , and sorry for the thread diversion also .