Thanks Mark, that's what it seems like. Maybe tomorrow I'll join the "I removed my door panel" club.

 

Success. The arm rest pad is normally held on by three, 7 mm nuts. Two of the nuts were floating around inside the arm rest cavity on my car.

For now I've re-installed the 2 loose nuts and tightened the 3rd.

Note for anyone else: These are flanged, smooth-face nuts with no sort of serration or lock washer associated to retain them. A little locktight or some lock washers should be on-hand if you dig into your arm rest to help ensure they don't come loose again.

 

Alright Jeff! Congratulations for fixing something with out causing more mayhem than before you started, as my projects sometimes do. I can imagine that the sound of those 2 nuts rattling around in there was quite annoying.

 

I had a steering wheel air bag rattle on my 2007 V8 Vantage that only sounded when I went over big bumps. I had my Aston dealer order the airbag screw sleeves, which were so cheap he didn't even charge me for them, and it took me all of 5 minutes to install with a Torx T30 driver. Just drove the car last night, taking care to go over a number of big bumps, and now the rattle is gone!

Interestingly, the Aston dealer had never ordered these parts before and knew nothing about this fix.

Thanks

Henry

 

I've got one noise...a rattle in what sounds like/appears to be in the rear window shelf back in the area or behind the rear seats over bumps...or maybe its coming from the boot decklid where the top side underpanel is fastened, the prior owner had XM installed and that are is not buttoned up fully that may be it, I'm gonna have all the XM stuff removed and the audo system right proper back to stick priemium factory audio as per build sheet, for now the rattle is just over medium to large bumps, other than that car is solid, no noises, quiet as can be.

 

Sunir, I seem to remember my AM tech mentioning that the DB9's have a fairly common rattle in their rear decks. Funny is that when I mentioned rattles he took me to his "Rattle" cabinet and showed me his assortment of various thickness foam and mole skin type materials with adhesive backing that he uses on the various models. He had a specific list of rattles and their locations that were common with various models. I think I have finally fixed all of mine.

 

this thread is awesome. well done guys!

 

Mark is there any way I can contact this tech or find out any of his mole skin tricks to use to help...it's not a super bad one, just want to see of maybe there is a bolt loose or if like you said it's common in DB9 maybe it's an easy adjustment...

thanks man

 

sorry to revive an old thread. but Mark, would you mind being kind and take picture of the door and show us where we need to unscrew to access those loose bolts inside. i just started hearing some annoying rattle coming from exactly where you said, the rear upper portion of the driver side door panel.

do you only have to remove the door handle to get to those screws?

 

I had not one but TWO Vantages (under warranty) that had bolts that came loose in the drivers door.

 

i took the driver door panel off today. Irish's instruction was spot on. Thank again Irish, remind me to buy you a beer if you're in LA.

for those who only want to check the arm rest bolts and the door latch release cable, which is held by two bolts behind the arm rest, you only need to take the arm rest off to check. But for me, the rattle originates in the rear upper section of the door panel. so i took the whole panel off. turns out for me, it was the screw that holds the glass in place of the bracket that was loose. which wasn't a surprise. i had a hunch it was a glass screw since when i wiggle the glass, i could hear the rattle. it's all reminiscent of the old 1999 mitsubishi that i owned back in the day which had the exact same window screw problem.

i was having trouble reacching the screw with a wrench until i noticed a hole in the metal frame that looked as if it was design for this exact purpose (re-tightening the screw). you had to lower and raise and lower the window a couple time for that hole to line up with the screw in order to stick a screw driver through it.

whoever attemp this, there're 4 torx bolts at the bottom of the door panel, one in the mid section towards the front inside a tunnel, and one up top in upper right. you DO need to disconnect two cables as Irish pointed out before pulling the entire panel off. and you really just "lift UP" the panel to separate the panel from the door frame. it's much easier if you have someone help you hold the panel while you reach inside to disconnect the cables.

now onto the annoying parcel shelf rattle, can't pin point where around the parcel shelf it's rattling ughh..