Which spacers are better?
Which spacers are better?
I've been considering putting new wheels on my Vantage. Just for the simple reason to pull out the wheels closer to the edge of the fenders. However, I like the OEM wheels very much (7 spokes star). As an alternative, I started to look for spacers and so far I have found two types: The ones that you bolt on to the original bolts of the car, and new ones come out from the spacers to mount the wheels on. And the other type which requires to change the original bolts for longer ones, to have enough thread to mount the wheels.
But, which one is better?
But, which one is better?
There are a few very detailed threads talking about these issues if you search.
You have a trade off to choose.
If you replace the stock 60 mm studs for longer ones, then you've got to do a little grinding to get them to fit in and they are very hard to find (thread and fitment is unusual). RSC has a complete system with 15 and 20 mm spacers and replacement (73 mm I believe) studs. It's pricey but it's proven. If you wanted to return to stock later however, I would be concerned about where you would find new studs, stock length, that would fit back into the holes you had to grind slightly to fit the RSC studs into. It's absolutely essential that the pressed in studs are in completely and tight, else you run the risk of the studs being loose and that leads to um a v bad outcome. No one that I know of has placed these spacers and then replaced the studs back to stock.
If you choose the bolt on spacers, you can have them made relatively cheaply (compared to the RSC solution) but unless you are putting very thick spacers on, you will have to grind down (shorten) the stock studs so that the lugs you screw onto them to anchor the spacer to the hub will fit inside the wheels you're putting on. Again, if you wanted to return the car to stock, you would subsequently have to replace the ground down studs but you might be able to get away with a new 60 mm set bought from Aston as there would not have been any alteration of the diameter of the mounting holes on the hub.
If you wanted to leave the stock studs in place then you'd need quite thick spacers (I have not done the math and I'm not sure anyone else has posted that number here) in order to leave the 60 mm stud in place and not have to grind it down. It might be too wide to accomplish the goal of 'filling the wells' with the tires and make the solution look amateurish. I'm considering this option actually but haven't yet had the wheels off, measured and 'done the math'. I wouldn't mind the wheels being a bit more 'out there' than the current 15/20 mm solution but not too far 'out there'.
You can find the RSC solution here. The general consensus is 15 mm front and 20 mm rear for the best look. Stuart is a stalwart poster here on 6Speed and can hook you up no problem.
I haven't seen any pics of cars with thicker spacers to compare. Would be interesting if people who have them would post them. If you are interested in a bolt on spacer solution then you can check with Adaptec, another forum sponsor. I've found Lenny to be very helpful in discussing possible solutions but, as I said, have not decided to go that route to date.
You have a trade off to choose.
If you replace the stock 60 mm studs for longer ones, then you've got to do a little grinding to get them to fit in and they are very hard to find (thread and fitment is unusual). RSC has a complete system with 15 and 20 mm spacers and replacement (73 mm I believe) studs. It's pricey but it's proven. If you wanted to return to stock later however, I would be concerned about where you would find new studs, stock length, that would fit back into the holes you had to grind slightly to fit the RSC studs into. It's absolutely essential that the pressed in studs are in completely and tight, else you run the risk of the studs being loose and that leads to um a v bad outcome. No one that I know of has placed these spacers and then replaced the studs back to stock.
If you choose the bolt on spacers, you can have them made relatively cheaply (compared to the RSC solution) but unless you are putting very thick spacers on, you will have to grind down (shorten) the stock studs so that the lugs you screw onto them to anchor the spacer to the hub will fit inside the wheels you're putting on. Again, if you wanted to return the car to stock, you would subsequently have to replace the ground down studs but you might be able to get away with a new 60 mm set bought from Aston as there would not have been any alteration of the diameter of the mounting holes on the hub.
If you wanted to leave the stock studs in place then you'd need quite thick spacers (I have not done the math and I'm not sure anyone else has posted that number here) in order to leave the 60 mm stud in place and not have to grind it down. It might be too wide to accomplish the goal of 'filling the wells' with the tires and make the solution look amateurish. I'm considering this option actually but haven't yet had the wheels off, measured and 'done the math'. I wouldn't mind the wheels being a bit more 'out there' than the current 15/20 mm solution but not too far 'out there'.
You can find the RSC solution here. The general consensus is 15 mm front and 20 mm rear for the best look. Stuart is a stalwart poster here on 6Speed and can hook you up no problem.
I haven't seen any pics of cars with thicker spacers to compare. Would be interesting if people who have them would post them. If you are interested in a bolt on spacer solution then you can check with Adaptec, another forum sponsor. I've found Lenny to be very helpful in discussing possible solutions but, as I said, have not decided to go that route to date.
Last edited by Aston.Ca; Apr 3, 2012 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Added more detail, fixed typos, clarified, added link to Adaptec
There are also some spacers from the German company H&R (link) available. For the one with width 22mm (11mm per wheel) you don't need to change the bolts as they are coming with modified nuts for use with the existing bolts. Also they are TUV (German technical control board) approved, so it's not some cheap stuff. Within this TUV certification it's clearly stated, that the bolts do not need to be shortened. Though I don’t know if 11mm more track on each side is enough....
They have also spacers with 46mm (23mm per wheel), but then the bolts must be shortened as explained by Aston.Ca.
They have also spacers with 46mm (23mm per wheel), but then the bolts must be shortened as explained by Aston.Ca.
Can you post any more details and/or pics on that solution Jarod? Looks like the site requires a password to access (couldn't get through from the link). I must be missing something as I'm not sure how thinner spacers wouldn't require shortening the stock studs while thicker ones would.
Can you post any more details and/or pics on that solution Jarod? Looks like the site requires a password to access (couldn't get through from the link). I must be missing something as I'm not sure how thinner spacers wouldn't require shortening the stock studs while thicker ones would.
The second ones are most likely of the type another poster described, where the studs have to be shortened so that the bolts holding them onto the hub are below the surface of the spacer (they countersink them)
In my opinion, the trick is to find out how much we need to cut the original bolts in order to fit the bolt on spacers from Adaptec. If it is like 5mm and that will help the bolts to fit within the empty spaces the wheel has between its holes.. Great! Because, I don't think that is too much, and we'd still could go back safely to stock without any risk of the wheels falling off, if so we decide. Now if it is like 10mm.. I don't know but, I would be reluctant to do that.
In the case of the RSC spacers, the issue is that we need to grind the holes of the brake discs (20 of them) so, the new studs can fit. And if you screw up and grind those holes too much, you are royally screwed! If the discs are a little loose, you will have vibration at driving and braking. And once you do that, you are stuck with that as you can not go back to stock! However, If done properly and carefully, and everything went well, the day you decide to go back to stock (or change wheels) the new studs can be cut and shortened (20 of them!!) back to oem of 60mm.
It would be interesting to know which way would you choose?
In the case of the RSC spacers, the issue is that we need to grind the holes of the brake discs (20 of them) so, the new studs can fit. And if you screw up and grind those holes too much, you are royally screwed! If the discs are a little loose, you will have vibration at driving and braking. And once you do that, you are stuck with that as you can not go back to stock! However, If done properly and carefully, and everything went well, the day you decide to go back to stock (or change wheels) the new studs can be cut and shortened (20 of them!!) back to oem of 60mm.
It would be interesting to know which way would you choose?
There are also some spacers from the German company H&R (link) available. For the one with width 22mm (11mm per wheel) you don't need to change the bolts as they are coming with modified nuts for use with the existing bolts. Also they are TUV (German technical control board) approved, so it's not some cheap stuff. Within this TUV certification it's clearly stated, that the bolts do not need to be shortened. Though I don’t know if 11mm more track on each side is enough....
They have also spacers with 46mm (23mm per wheel), but then the bolts must be shortened as explained by Aston.Ca.
They have also spacers with 46mm (23mm per wheel), but then the bolts must be shortened as explained by Aston.Ca.
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In my opinion, the trick is to find out how much we need to cut the original bolts in order to fit the bolt on spacers from Adaptec. If it is like 5mm and that will help the bolts to fit within the empty spaces the wheel has between its holes.. Great! Because, I don't think that is too much, and we'd still could go back safely to stock without any risk of the wheels falling off, if so we decide. Now if it is like 10mm.. I don't know but, I would be reluctant to do that.
In the case of the RSC spacers, the issue is that we need to grind the holes of the brake discs (20 of them) so, the new studs can fit. And if you screw up and grind those holes too much, you are royally screwed! If the discs are a little loose, you will have vibration at driving and braking. And once you do that, you are stuck with that as you can not go back to stock! However, If done properly and carefully, and everything went well, the day you decide to go back to stock (or change wheels) the new studs can be cut and shortened (20 of them!!) back to oem of 60mm.
It would be interesting to know which way would you choose?
In the case of the RSC spacers, the issue is that we need to grind the holes of the brake discs (20 of them) so, the new studs can fit. And if you screw up and grind those holes too much, you are royally screwed! If the discs are a little loose, you will have vibration at driving and braking. And once you do that, you are stuck with that as you can not go back to stock! However, If done properly and carefully, and everything went well, the day you decide to go back to stock (or change wheels) the new studs can be cut and shortened (20 of them!!) back to oem of 60mm.
It would be interesting to know which way would you choose?
That's a valid point.
Don't get me wrong, I have no preference between the two types of spacers.. I, myself, I'm trying to decide which to purchase. And I would like to see some opinions on the topic.
I am just pointing out that the Adaptec bolt on type would be "less work" to install and uninstall, "if the cutting of the oem studs is minimal" (5mm. - from 60mm to 55mm). There would be a lot less work to be done. We don't have to take the brakes out, the discs, the hubs, the grinding of 20 holes etc. Just cut the studs and bolt on the spacers to the hub. Again, if the cutting of the oem studs is minimal, later we can go back to stock safely and easily if we want to.
If the cutting is more than 5mm. I wouldn't do it.
So, in my opinion everything rides on finding out how much we need to cut the studs to install the bolt on spacers!!! Too much, No good...
In your case Stuart (RSC), the installation of your spacers need more work and precision. Too much grinding of those holes on the discs, and we are royally screwed up! as we will have vibration, in both driving and braking. And if that happens, we can't go back to stock by putting the oem studs back as they will be loose. The installation needs to done right, the first time. No errors! No second chances here! But, If done right... then, yes we would be able to go back to the stock set up later if we want to by just cutting the longer studs from 73mm to 60mm.
I am just pointing out that the Adaptec bolt on type would be "less work" to install and uninstall, "if the cutting of the oem studs is minimal" (5mm. - from 60mm to 55mm). There would be a lot less work to be done. We don't have to take the brakes out, the discs, the hubs, the grinding of 20 holes etc. Just cut the studs and bolt on the spacers to the hub. Again, if the cutting of the oem studs is minimal, later we can go back to stock safely and easily if we want to.
If the cutting is more than 5mm. I wouldn't do it.
So, in my opinion everything rides on finding out how much we need to cut the studs to install the bolt on spacers!!! Too much, No good...
In your case Stuart (RSC), the installation of your spacers need more work and precision. Too much grinding of those holes on the discs, and we are royally screwed up! as we will have vibration, in both driving and braking. And if that happens, we can't go back to stock by putting the oem studs back as they will be loose. The installation needs to done right, the first time. No errors! No second chances here! But, If done right... then, yes we would be able to go back to the stock set up later if we want to by just cutting the longer studs from 73mm to 60mm.
Here's the deal with bolt on spacers:
Since most wheels (inlcuding the V8V wheels) have backside pockets between the stud holes, the stock studs do not have to be flush with the spacer and therefore do NOT have to be cut. The extra stud length just protrudes into the pockets. Obviously it can't be too much...just look at your wheels.
However, what has to be flush is the top surface of the spacer nut, since its diameter is too large to fit into the pocket recess. You can buy special lugnuts that are shorter than typical expressly for this purpose at your local auto parts store. Nevertheless, there is a minimum thickness where this will work. Generally we are talking about a bolt on spacer no less than 20mm.
I had made some 23mm bolt on spacers and the nuts were below the surface of the spacer face by a couple mm's.
Since most wheels (inlcuding the V8V wheels) have backside pockets between the stud holes, the stock studs do not have to be flush with the spacer and therefore do NOT have to be cut. The extra stud length just protrudes into the pockets. Obviously it can't be too much...just look at your wheels.
However, what has to be flush is the top surface of the spacer nut, since its diameter is too large to fit into the pocket recess. You can buy special lugnuts that are shorter than typical expressly for this purpose at your local auto parts store. Nevertheless, there is a minimum thickness where this will work. Generally we are talking about a bolt on spacer no less than 20mm.
I had made some 23mm bolt on spacers and the nuts were below the surface of the spacer face by a couple mm's.
Can you post any more details and/or pics on that solution Jarod? Looks like the site requires a password to access (couldn't get through from the link). I must be missing something as I'm not sure how thinner spacers wouldn't require shortening the stock studs while thicker ones would.
I agree with karlfranz, I am not sure if 11mm are visible anyhow.
Not sure if the pockets of the AM wheels are deep enough to cover the full length of the studs for bolt-on-spacers < 20mm... for spacer > 20mm it might work.
I've done some searching, and the H&R 23mm spacers are £185, but the 11mm spacers are £265, but need longer studs which they don't provide. Everywhere I've looked, the wider ones are much cheaper!
The fittings are different, for the 23mm you get a pair of spacers complete with studs & a new set of fastening nuts. The spacers are fastened to the original studs using the fastening nuts provided, and the wheel can then be fastened on to the spacer studs using your original wheel nuts. No other fixing accessories are required. You may need to grind off the end of the original studs.
For the 11mm ones you get a pair of spacers which should be fitted between the wheel & the hub, and then fastened with longer bolts / studs. The longer wheel bolts / studs are not supplied, and must be ordered separately.
I think I might just do the back ones, it seems to be cheaper, much easier to fit, and look better.
The fittings are different, for the 23mm you get a pair of spacers complete with studs & a new set of fastening nuts. The spacers are fastened to the original studs using the fastening nuts provided, and the wheel can then be fastened on to the spacer studs using your original wheel nuts. No other fixing accessories are required. You may need to grind off the end of the original studs.
For the 11mm ones you get a pair of spacers which should be fitted between the wheel & the hub, and then fastened with longer bolts / studs. The longer wheel bolts / studs are not supplied, and must be ordered separately.
I think I might just do the back ones, it seems to be cheaper, much easier to fit, and look better.
If there is a 23mm bolt-on spacer solution that does not require any modification to the existing studs, I would definitely install them on the rear wheels of my car to widen its stance. Looking online the prices seem to be very reasonable, about $150US per pair. Who wants to be the guinea pig?
Here's the deal with bolt on spacers:
Since most wheels (inlcuding the V8V wheels) have backside pockets between the stud holes, the stock studs do not have to be flush with the spacer and therefore do NOT have to be cut. The extra stud length just protrudes into the pockets. Obviously it can't be too much...just look at your wheels.
However, what has to be flush is the top surface of the spacer nut, since its diameter is too large to fit into the pocket recess. You can buy special lugnuts that are shorter than typical expressly for this purpose at your local auto parts store. Nevertheless, there is a minimum thickness where this will work. Generally we are talking about a bolt on spacer no less than 20mm.
I had made some 23mm bolt on spacers and the nuts were below the surface of the spacer face by a couple mm's.
Since most wheels (inlcuding the V8V wheels) have backside pockets between the stud holes, the stock studs do not have to be flush with the spacer and therefore do NOT have to be cut. The extra stud length just protrudes into the pockets. Obviously it can't be too much...just look at your wheels.
However, what has to be flush is the top surface of the spacer nut, since its diameter is too large to fit into the pocket recess. You can buy special lugnuts that are shorter than typical expressly for this purpose at your local auto parts store. Nevertheless, there is a minimum thickness where this will work. Generally we are talking about a bolt on spacer no less than 20mm.
I had made some 23mm bolt on spacers and the nuts were below the surface of the spacer face by a couple mm's.
Has someone got a link to the H&R product? I'm assuming that the spacer studs for this are threaded for the stock Aston lugs correct? This is a custom solution for Astons?
Has anyone seen spacers wider than 15mm on the fronts?





