My clutch has recently started getting very stiff and heavy. It's noticeably taking more force to step on the clutch.

Is my clutch going bad? Researched online it might have something to do with the slave cylinder going bad in transmission. Also, is the clutch under factory warranty? i doubt it but thought i'd ask. Thanks.

2007 V8V with 15k miles.

 

I've never heard of it taking more effort on a AM, when the clutch goes bad(worn out friction disc which is common), you get a high pedal..just touching the pedal and your clutch is disengaged. The pedal is a tad stiffer but that wouldn't be the concern, you would be complaining of the clutch slippage and high pedal over the effort..the pressure plate fingers are more outward and require a tad more effort..but again not really an amount that you would be making a thread..

Causes of a stiff pedal, don't really see the slave cyl doing this, there pretty good...the friction disc could be rusted on the splines, but would cause clutch sticking issues.

The master cyl for the clutch could be particially blocked, or the line to the slave cyl could be restricted. The hindge and spring on the clutch pedal could the siezing causing the stiff pedal, but this would cause the pedal to not return correctly..

Really hard to track a cause unless felt..is the pedal stiff like a brake pedal, meaning hydraulic stiff..or is it a free motion but with extra effort

 

i would say its free motion with extra effort. It just seems moderately stiffer than i remember...

 

it could be the clutch bearing. I had the same symptoms. Soon after, he broke, and the clutch also because of this problem.

 

Ya, sounds like clutch bearing. If it was master/slave cylinder, the pressure would actually be same or less, but it would require alot more pedal travel (and eventually go all the way to the floor). Whereas if the actual resistance of the pedal is getting more firm, that means that something is binding or not traveling smoothly (aka throwout bearing).

It does mean the life of your clutch is coming to an end usually (although not always). Regardless if clutch still has life left or not, you have to take everything out anwyays, so you might as well replace (or upgrade should you chose).

hope that helps

 

The slave cyl is the clutch bearing, there is no slave and also a clutch bearing, it is one unit, if the roller bearings in the slave went out you would be hearing grinding and squealing noises with other concerns..the bearings will not cause extra pedal effort, for the applying force motion is the slave cyl, the roller bearing in the slave unit will just spin,

 

Anyone know if it's the same diagnosis for db9? I have a manual 6spd in my db9 and the clutch feels very stiff and heavy and the clutch engages super high like almost when you completely let out of it just before that point as you roll onto first gear. I haven't been able to test or drive any other 6 speed db9 they are super rare and I can't find one to drive locally... I dont know if this is the normal way the clutch is supposed to feel or of my clutch needs service... The dealer didn't give me a straight answer when I tried to find out more about this, and they are not too sure with manual db9 cars either most of their cars are automatic based...and our local dealer is in the process or restructuring in addition, so not sure if it would be feasible for them to get a manual db9 in to have me come and take a quick drive.

 

Yes, if the pedal disengages near the top(bairly pressing pedal), the clutch is worn, some cars have an adjustable quadrant to delete the extra pedal motion, but with AM being a hydraulic system versus a cable system..this can't be done..so to get the pedal back to normal(near pedal push down clutch disengages), the clutch would need to be replaced providing the pedal isn't spongey and has no air..

Good test I do is get car into a roll in 1st gear no more than 2,000rpm, then shift to 4th and go full throttle. If your clutch starts to spin freely versus being sync'd to the increased speed..clutch is finished. I do however notice though that DB9 has a stiffer pedal than a V8V, this is due to the larger clutch(DB9 is also a twin plate clutch system)

 

Irish, there is a lot of talk about how the AM clutch is "weak". Do you find this to be true?

 

The clutch feel in the Astons tend to be "heavy" compared to a lot of other sports cars. The change in the fulcrum point like irish mentioned could make you think the pedal is heavier.

 

^^^ Josh is there any way to test mine? or at least see if it needs replacing or sorting out? At least maybe for diagnosing purposes.

 

Not that is weak, it can hold the stock power + a little..but it does not like abuse..hard launches, racing..pretty much anything fun
Aston had got into a contract with Valeo to make the clutch systems, once your signed in your stuck with what you can get..in 2009 the clutch was lightend and strengthened abit..but the main fault is in the friction disc.

The friction disc is stamped verus rivets, if the pressure plate was riveted together, I don't think we would even be talking about clutch issues on regular manual tranaxles..just ASM's, the ASM system operates great with a new clutch, once 50%, it's all downhill from there..1mm of wear in the friction disc and it's 50%, 2mm and it's finished!!

 

I had two service managers at two different Aston dealers tell me today that it is normal for the clutch on my 2009 Vantage V8 to engage and disengage at the top of the pedal travel.

One also opined that the clutch should last 25,000 miles in a stick, but the automated manual far less.

 

Sunir, like irish said doing an acceleration at WOT from low RPM in a high gear like 4th will tell you for certain if the clutch is toast as it will definitely slip.

As for visual inspection, there aren't any "peep" holes position to view the clutch disc and physically see or measure the disc thickness.

We generally just run 'em until it starts to slip all over everywhere.

 

BS
On manuals the clutch does feel heavier compared to other cars but it is not normal for them to engage at the top of the travel
ASM gearboxes are only worse if they are abused and "learns" not done.
My last ASM1 roadster got well over 25k with no issues before I sold it.