what to look for when shopping for a v12v
what to look for when shopping for a v12v
All,
A long-time lurker here who has suddenly (and unexpectedly) achieved the means to purchase a U.S. 2011 or 2012 V12 Vantage. It won't be a daily driver but I will probably do 1.5K - 3K miles per year.
A few quick questions:
1) When shopping, what should I look for in terms of maintenance "red flags"? Clutch and brakes seem to be the usual suspects. What are the best methods for assessing clutch and brakes when test driving? What else should I be on the lookout for beyond the obvious of paint condition, panel fits, etc.?
2) I'm in the Northeast and will likely focus on dealers there and in the midwest. Any dealers to particularly focus on or avoid in terms of reputation? I'll likely have to rely on their mechanical evaluation (since I doubt they'd let my mechanic tear the car apart to inspect the brakes and clutch) so I'd like a dealer that is trustworthy.
3) Assuming, I can successfully purchase a car, how crazy is maintenance? I'm happy "to pay to play" but I will be at least 2.5 - 3 hours from the nearest dealership. Is there some basic maintenance that my local mechanic can handle? Are service manuals available?
Thank you in advance to the entire community . . . I've found the conversations here enormously helpful and informative!
A long-time lurker here who has suddenly (and unexpectedly) achieved the means to purchase a U.S. 2011 or 2012 V12 Vantage. It won't be a daily driver but I will probably do 1.5K - 3K miles per year.
A few quick questions:
1) When shopping, what should I look for in terms of maintenance "red flags"? Clutch and brakes seem to be the usual suspects. What are the best methods for assessing clutch and brakes when test driving? What else should I be on the lookout for beyond the obvious of paint condition, panel fits, etc.?
2) I'm in the Northeast and will likely focus on dealers there and in the midwest. Any dealers to particularly focus on or avoid in terms of reputation? I'll likely have to rely on their mechanical evaluation (since I doubt they'd let my mechanic tear the car apart to inspect the brakes and clutch) so I'd like a dealer that is trustworthy.
3) Assuming, I can successfully purchase a car, how crazy is maintenance? I'm happy "to pay to play" but I will be at least 2.5 - 3 hours from the nearest dealership. Is there some basic maintenance that my local mechanic can handle? Are service manuals available?
Thank you in advance to the entire community . . . I've found the conversations here enormously helpful and informative!
I don't know much about the dealers in your area, but the V12V I have has been pretty bullet proof so far.
The inspection method for the CCR brake system is pretty much the same as any other performance brake setup (pad thickness, rotor thickness, etc.,). Make sure you inspect the rotors for cracking, they're big money for replacement.
The clutch is hydraulic, so it's difficult to inspect based on pedal height engagement. You can check for clutch slippage by short shifting when going up a hill, but the only sure way to check clutch life is by opening up to do a visual. The manual transmission and clutch setup for the V12V is fairly beefy, and there shouldn't be the same issues as in the sport shift transmissions; unless of course from driver abuse. A look at the rear tire tread should provide some obvious clues. If the tires have significantly more tread than the fronts, obviously they've been replaced at least once.
Most used V12V's in North America should still have factory warranty, as they have only been recently introduced and have not been around for a significant length of time.
I would suggest having an independent mechanical inspection done from a reputable dealer.
Maintenance records should be easy to get from the dealership or previous owner, and if the previous owner performed his own service work (oil changes, etc.,), he should be able to provide receipts for the filters, oil, etc.
If you place the car on a lift, make sure to inspect with your nose as well as your eyes. Careful sniffing can reveal the smell of gear oil (leaks), burning motor oil (leaks), residual smell of burning clutch lining, and excessive rubber smell from burnouts or race abuse.
Also make sure to check for scrapes or gouges on the exhaust system and under the front carbon fiber spoiler.
Also make sure to check the usual suspects - Engine oil level & color
Power steering fluid level & color, also smell to see if it smells burned
Brake fluid level & color, also see if there are any particulates in the fluid. Particulates are a good sign if the brakes have been overheated or if the car has been tracked.
Check for play in the front end, and check for abnormal or uneven tire wear.
If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
The inspection method for the CCR brake system is pretty much the same as any other performance brake setup (pad thickness, rotor thickness, etc.,). Make sure you inspect the rotors for cracking, they're big money for replacement.
The clutch is hydraulic, so it's difficult to inspect based on pedal height engagement. You can check for clutch slippage by short shifting when going up a hill, but the only sure way to check clutch life is by opening up to do a visual. The manual transmission and clutch setup for the V12V is fairly beefy, and there shouldn't be the same issues as in the sport shift transmissions; unless of course from driver abuse. A look at the rear tire tread should provide some obvious clues. If the tires have significantly more tread than the fronts, obviously they've been replaced at least once.
Most used V12V's in North America should still have factory warranty, as they have only been recently introduced and have not been around for a significant length of time.
I would suggest having an independent mechanical inspection done from a reputable dealer.
Maintenance records should be easy to get from the dealership or previous owner, and if the previous owner performed his own service work (oil changes, etc.,), he should be able to provide receipts for the filters, oil, etc.
If you place the car on a lift, make sure to inspect with your nose as well as your eyes. Careful sniffing can reveal the smell of gear oil (leaks), burning motor oil (leaks), residual smell of burning clutch lining, and excessive rubber smell from burnouts or race abuse.
Also make sure to check for scrapes or gouges on the exhaust system and under the front carbon fiber spoiler.
Also make sure to check the usual suspects - Engine oil level & color
Power steering fluid level & color, also smell to see if it smells burned
Brake fluid level & color, also see if there are any particulates in the fluid. Particulates are a good sign if the brakes have been overheated or if the car has been tracked.
Check for play in the front end, and check for abnormal or uneven tire wear.
If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.
I've had mine since December of 2012 and have ad no problems. The recommended maintenance is once a year and costs around $1100-$1200? No more than any other exotic cars like Ferrari or Maserati. You can also get a PPI if it's used to make sure there's no obvious issues.
Good advice groutguy and Will, for the purchase of nearly any car. Can't think of anything specific regarding the V12V to add. I have had no issues in two years of ownership save some chrome trim on the passenger-side window popping up a bit. By the time Aston produced the V12Vs they had corrected most of the niggles of the earlier Vantages.
Congrats on now being in a position to purchase and good luck in your search.
Congrats on now being in a position to purchase and good luck in your search.
Last edited by Racer_X; May 20, 2013 at 06:54 AM.
You are going to LOVE this car bit really is a unique car. It's a very reliable car. One area I would check is second gear while cold. If it crunches at all have them address it. Other than that mine has been awesome.
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