V8 Vantage- No Power to Car but Battery is Charged
Tried to search this but did not turn up any info.
I have not driven my Vantage for about a month, during this time it stays on a battery tender trickle charger. When I went to go take it out this weekend I was shocked to discover the car acted as if the battery was completely dead, figured the trickle charger may have gone bad. Put another charger on it (post under the hood since I could not access the trunk where the other charger was connected to the rear posts). Next day still acted like it was completely dead (nothing whatsoever). Accessed the battery (very difficult since the seat can not be moved with no power) and metered the battery to discover it had a full charge.
Checked all the terminals, connections, etc. Everything looks great and the battery is only a few months old.
I found a large 60A fuse near the battery, checked it and it was good. Began to remove the pasenger seat so I could remove the interior panel to see if there is a main fuse that is not visible. Realized I would need to reset the airbag SRS if I continued and then decided I would post here before I continue to dismantle the car.
Anyone had a similar thing happen or know where a main fuse is located that I should check?
I have not driven my Vantage for about a month, during this time it stays on a battery tender trickle charger. When I went to go take it out this weekend I was shocked to discover the car acted as if the battery was completely dead, figured the trickle charger may have gone bad. Put another charger on it (post under the hood since I could not access the trunk where the other charger was connected to the rear posts). Next day still acted like it was completely dead (nothing whatsoever). Accessed the battery (very difficult since the seat can not be moved with no power) and metered the battery to discover it had a full charge.
Checked all the terminals, connections, etc. Everything looks great and the battery is only a few months old.
I found a large 60A fuse near the battery, checked it and it was good. Began to remove the pasenger seat so I could remove the interior panel to see if there is a main fuse that is not visible. Realized I would need to reset the airbag SRS if I continued and then decided I would post here before I continue to dismantle the car.
Anyone had a similar thing happen or know where a main fuse is located that I should check?
have you put a voltmeter to the battery? You need have 13+ volts. My thought is for whatever reason your battery is charged. Sorry, never mind just reread your post and you checked it.
You might try looking at the cables attaching to the terminals of the battery to make sure they're tight. The other thing to check is the ground cable from the battery to chassis/engine block, I'm not sure where it grounds on the AM.
You might try looking at the cables attaching to the terminals of the battery to make sure they're tight. The other thing to check is the ground cable from the battery to chassis/engine block, I'm not sure where it grounds on the AM.
on the vantage you press the cutoff battery,but to restart you just put the key into the ignition and start.
i had a very similar issue on my 05 db9 a few months ago
car would not start, seemed like it was a dead battery
i replaced the battery, checked the fuses and everything, could not find the issue
ended up having to pull it out of park manually through the release behind drivers seat and towed it to the aston dealer
took them like 2 days to find the problem, was a broken wire somewhere in the left rear firewall above the quarter panel that had to do with the transmission control unit
car would not start, seemed like it was a dead battery
i replaced the battery, checked the fuses and everything, could not find the issue
ended up having to pull it out of park manually through the release behind drivers seat and towed it to the aston dealer
took them like 2 days to find the problem, was a broken wire somewhere in the left rear firewall above the quarter panel that had to do with the transmission control unit
Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
Have you tried your other key?
Perhaps the key you are using won't communicate (somehow lost is programing) with the PATS, which immobilizes engine start.
Perhaps the key you are using won't communicate (somehow lost is programing) with the PATS, which immobilizes engine start.
What year is it?
What model?
How did you test the battery to know it's good..whats the voltage and amps?
Is the dome light working and are there any msgs displayed in the dash at all?
What model?
How did you test the battery to know it's good..whats the voltage and amps?
Is the dome light working and are there any msgs displayed in the dash at all?
__________________
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
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I brought home my fluke meter from work and found that the battery only has 7V and will not take any more charge so the battery appears to be bad (even though its less than a year old). I guess the cheapo meter I checked with originally was not too accurate after all.
I figured even with 7V there would at least be a dim dome light but the BCM must block low voltage to prevent damage to the vehicle components.
Thanks for the help though guys!
Sounds similar but I have a manual so not sure if that would be the issue.
Nothing is working not even components that you don't need the key for.
No dome light, no messages at all (as if there is no battery in the car)
I brought home my fluke meter from work and found that the battery only has 7V and will not take any more charge so the battery appears to be bad (even though its less than a year old). I guess the cheapo meter I checked with originally was not too accurate after all.
I figured even with 7V there would at least be a dim dome light but the BCM must block low voltage to prevent damage to the vehicle components.
Thanks for the help though guys!
Nothing is working not even components that you don't need the key for.
No dome light, no messages at all (as if there is no battery in the car)
I brought home my fluke meter from work and found that the battery only has 7V and will not take any more charge so the battery appears to be bad (even though its less than a year old). I guess the cheapo meter I checked with originally was not too accurate after all.
I figured even with 7V there would at least be a dim dome light but the BCM must block low voltage to prevent damage to the vehicle components.
Thanks for the help though guys!
Sounds like the battery dropped a cell..if a regular battery goes flat once, it's just reduced it's life by 33%..after 3 times the batteyr usually does not hold a charge long.
Now that your changing the battery, do a amp drain test to make sure there is no drain..carefull not to blow the fuse in your meter, fuses aren't cheap!

Not sure what year you have, but pre 2009 you will need to relearn the misfire factors..along with windows, and also seats if memory is fitted
__________________
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
"Not sure what year you have, but pre 2009 you will need to relearn the misfire factors..along with windows, and also seats if memory is fitted"
Can you tell me how to do this for a "pre 2009". I expect I'll have to go through that procedure when I change my battery in a MY2008.
Thanks.
Can you tell me how to do this for a "pre 2009". I expect I'll have to go through that procedure when I change my battery in a MY2008.
Thanks.
Doesn't block it, does require a minimum of 9V to operate though, even the dome light needs 9V to work without any ECU's.
Sounds like the battery dropped a cell..if a regular battery goes flat once, it's just reduced it's life by 33%..after 3 times the batteyr usually does not hold a charge long.
Now that your changing the battery, do a amp drain test to make sure there is no drain..carefull not to blow the fuse in your meter, fuses aren't cheap!
Not sure what year you have, but pre 2009 you will need to relearn the misfire factors..along with windows, and also seats if memory is fitted
Sounds like the battery dropped a cell..if a regular battery goes flat once, it's just reduced it's life by 33%..after 3 times the batteyr usually does not hold a charge long.
Now that your changing the battery, do a amp drain test to make sure there is no drain..carefull not to blow the fuse in your meter, fuses aren't cheap!

Not sure what year you have, but pre 2009 you will need to relearn the misfire factors..along with windows, and also seats if memory is fitted
I brought home my fluke meter from work and found that the battery only has 7V and will not take any more charge so the battery appears to be bad (even though its less than a year old). I guess the cheapo meter I checked with originally was not too accurate after all.
I figured even with 7V there would at least be a dim dome light but the BCM must block low voltage to prevent damage to the vehicle components.
Thanks for the help though guys!
I figured even with 7V there would at least be a dim dome light but the BCM must block low voltage to prevent damage to the vehicle components.
Thanks for the help though guys!

Many of the modules need ~9V to wake up!
Last edited by mikey k; Nov 19, 2014 at 11:35 AM.
Since it was on a trickle charger, it seems like the Charger should have indicated that the battery was not reaching it's full charge, as an indication the battery had failed. Hmmm?







