How To: DIY Vantage Battery Replacement
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Step 5 is the only hard step. Other than that surprisingly simple. Nice write up!
I made another video, yay.
Battery Change in an Aston Martin V8 Vantage - YouTube
NEEDED:
New battery
T-27 torx bit
10mm socket
13mm socket
Long extension
Ratchet
Philips screwdriver
About an hour
NOTES:
This shouldn't be a difficult job, but... packaging. What makes it difficult is that you're working behind the seat (which is not a comfortable place to be), you're likely to have a trim piece in the way of the sliding brackets (I hate them for this), and the battery is super heavy (53-1/2 lbs!).
Step 1
Move the right-hand seat all the way forward. In the US, this is the passenger seat. In the UK, this is the driver seat.
Step 2
Remove the parcel shelf (just pull it out, no tricks there), and the styrofoam blocks from on top and behind the battery.
Step 3
Remove the philips-head screws along the aluminum bar, then remove the bar itself. You can now pull the vertical piece of carpet away from the battery and have plenty of room to work around it.
Step 4
Use the ratchet, long extension, and 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the U-shaped bracket that goes over the top of the battery.
Step 5
Use the T-27 torx bit to loosen the 4 bolts on the two sliding clamps. These do not come all the way out. They just need to be loosened enough to let the brackets slide freely. Remove the sliding brackets NOTE: The carpeted trim piece to the left of the battery might be in the way. You'll have to loosen it, remove it, or simply pull it out of the way to get the brackets off. This might be difficult.
Step 6
Remove the vent tube.
Step 7
Use the 13mm socket to loosen the nut on the ground terminal and then pull the cable away from the battery, then do the same for the positive cable.
Step 8
Remove the battery. Be careful! It's very heavy!
Step 9
Put the new battery in place, then complete the above steps in reverse.
Battery Change in an Aston Martin V8 Vantage - YouTube
NEEDED:
New battery
T-27 torx bit
10mm socket
13mm socket
Long extension
Ratchet
Philips screwdriver
About an hour
NOTES:
This shouldn't be a difficult job, but... packaging. What makes it difficult is that you're working behind the seat (which is not a comfortable place to be), you're likely to have a trim piece in the way of the sliding brackets (I hate them for this), and the battery is super heavy (53-1/2 lbs!).
Step 1
Move the right-hand seat all the way forward. In the US, this is the passenger seat. In the UK, this is the driver seat.
Step 2
Remove the parcel shelf (just pull it out, no tricks there), and the styrofoam blocks from on top and behind the battery.
Step 3
Remove the philips-head screws along the aluminum bar, then remove the bar itself. You can now pull the vertical piece of carpet away from the battery and have plenty of room to work around it.
Step 4
Use the ratchet, long extension, and 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the U-shaped bracket that goes over the top of the battery.
Step 5
Use the T-27 torx bit to loosen the 4 bolts on the two sliding clamps. These do not come all the way out. They just need to be loosened enough to let the brackets slide freely. Remove the sliding brackets NOTE: The carpeted trim piece to the left of the battery might be in the way. You'll have to loosen it, remove it, or simply pull it out of the way to get the brackets off. This might be difficult.
Step 6
Remove the vent tube.
Step 7
Use the 13mm socket to loosen the nut on the ground terminal and then pull the cable away from the battery, then do the same for the positive cable.
Step 8
Remove the battery. Be careful! It's very heavy!
Step 9
Put the new battery in place, then complete the above steps in reverse.
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so, will a battery tender save from having to reinitialize everything? If not, what will need to be reset? Window modules, audio presets, seat modules, etc?
My thought is to plug in battery tender and then as i remove each cable, cover/wrap terminals in electrical tape.
I've done this on my BMW without loosing anything, but my Porsche, I still lost some memory items, etc.
Will likely do this over the holidays as I change out batteries every few years, regardless of how they are performing.
Off hand, anyone know the proper group type? I know some AML need a lower height battery... Mine is a 2008 V*V Coupe
Thanks to Rich for great insutructions
My thought is to plug in battery tender and then as i remove each cable, cover/wrap terminals in electrical tape.
I've done this on my BMW without loosing anything, but my Porsche, I still lost some memory items, etc.
Will likely do this over the holidays as I change out batteries every few years, regardless of how they are performing.
Off hand, anyone know the proper group type? I know some AML need a lower height battery... Mine is a 2008 V*V Coupe
Thanks to Rich for great insutructions
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From: So Cal
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Group size 49 (H8) battery tender doesn't put out enough power to save everything, I would use at least a 10-20amp charger @the under hood power supply. Clock and windows lose memory, radio can go for hours without loosing presets. Main thing is misfire corrections and emissions monitors being lost which requires drive cycles to restore.
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I apologize for asking as I don't have one of these cars (yet, not in a position to be getting a car right now but soon), but how is the battery secured from moving side to side? Does the battery drop into a recess that holds it in place?
I'm trying to source some lithium titanate batteries (for cold weather), and the factory I'm talking to has cases that come in the common 175mm footprint depth (shared by H6, H8, etc. common European large AGM battery sizes). I only have the family Porsche Cayman to look at right now, which has a group 48 H6 (a little less wide than the Aston battery but otherwise similar), and what I noticed is it's secured with a bracket at the base of the battery that bolts into the car at the sides. Obviously, this isn't going to be able to hold a shorter battery without some spacers.
(If anyone is interested, the battery I'm looking at is 12V (5S config) 40Ah w/200A continuous current BMS, withstand discharge down to 0V, can charge at -40C unlike the common LFMP batteries which can't be charged anywhere below 0C, can take 200A of charging current, withstands tens of thousands of cycles, weighs 15lbs. I am probably going to buy a bunch of extras to get a discount.)
I'm trying to source some lithium titanate batteries (for cold weather), and the factory I'm talking to has cases that come in the common 175mm footprint depth (shared by H6, H8, etc. common European large AGM battery sizes). I only have the family Porsche Cayman to look at right now, which has a group 48 H6 (a little less wide than the Aston battery but otherwise similar), and what I noticed is it's secured with a bracket at the base of the battery that bolts into the car at the sides. Obviously, this isn't going to be able to hold a shorter battery without some spacers.
(If anyone is interested, the battery I'm looking at is 12V (5S config) 40Ah w/200A continuous current BMS, withstand discharge down to 0V, can charge at -40C unlike the common LFMP batteries which can't be charged anywhere below 0C, can take 200A of charging current, withstands tens of thousands of cycles, weighs 15lbs. I am probably going to buy a bunch of extras to get a discount.)
Last edited by convexproblem; Oct 20, 2020 at 02:45 AM.
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Quick question: I have a MY12 Roadster. I saw the vent tube on the old battery, but I replaced it with an AGM battery. I forgot to check the vent tube before putting the battery back in, but went back afterwards, took the carpet away, and didn't see anywhere to put the vent tube into the AGM battery. I didn't want to take the whole battery back out again, so coming here to see if anyone knows.
I have read conflicting info on whether or not AGM batteries need to be vented - can anyone on here provide some advice?
I have read conflicting info on whether or not AGM batteries need to be vented - can anyone on here provide some advice?
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I did a video on this as well, some differences from Rich's original video on my 4.7L
T30 torx was used to remove all bracket screws, no 10mm required
a strange 8mm bolt was just on the left side of the aluminum bar, rest were phillips head screws
I bought the Oreilly's battery for $169 that was in stock and it works fine, has a 3 year warranty, the original interstate battery was still in my car from 11 years ago!
T30 torx was used to remove all bracket screws, no 10mm required
a strange 8mm bolt was just on the left side of the aluminum bar, rest were phillips head screws
I bought the Oreilly's battery for $169 that was in stock and it works fine, has a 3 year warranty, the original interstate battery was still in my car from 11 years ago!
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Also I mentioned this in my lithium ion battery thread, but the sliding brackets are actually very easy to get off, you need to pull the carpet panel facing you all the way forward like Rich does in the video, then pull the side trim outward towards yourself. This gets just barely enough clearance for the sliding clip to slide behind it. The trim panels are very thick and rigid so you'll never be able to stretch them enough if you push inward.
Last edited by convexproblem; May 9, 2021 at 04:56 PM.
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bolt on battery side of aluminum bar too (the rest are screws) the car was 100% stock when i bought it as a 12 year old, with 11,000 miles on it. including the defective thermostat and flat spotted original bridgestones and battery.
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My 4.3L also had the 8mm bolt on the left side of the aluminum bar, not sure if the dealer put it in when servicing the battery for the PO, or if the car originally came with it. I also had T30 Torx instead of T27 like Rich says in his video.
Also I mentioned this in my lithium ion battery thread, but the sliding brackets are actually very easy to get off, you need to pull the carpet panel facing you all the way forward like Rich does in the video, then pull the side trim outward towards yourself. This gets just barely enough clearance for the sliding clip to slide behind it. The trim panels are very thick and rigid so you'll never be able to stretch them enough if you push inward.
Also I mentioned this in my lithium ion battery thread, but the sliding brackets are actually very easy to get off, you need to pull the carpet panel facing you all the way forward like Rich does in the video, then pull the side trim outward towards yourself. This gets just barely enough clearance for the sliding clip to slide behind it. The trim panels are very thick and rigid so you'll never be able to stretch them enough if you push inward.
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Hello, thanks to the videos it was pretty easy to change the battery, but I have got one question.
The degassing hose that was attached to the old battery, I've attached it to the new battery again, but where should it go on the other end?
My hose was only attached to the battery and was going nowhere, is that normal?
The degassing hose that was attached to the old battery, I've attached it to the new battery again, but where should it go on the other end?
My hose was only attached to the battery and was going nowhere, is that normal?
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Posts: 126
From: NYC Area
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Hello, thanks to the videos it was pretty easy to change the battery, but I have got one question.
The degassing hose that was attached to the old battery, I've attached it to the new battery again, but where should it go on the other end?
My hose was only attached to the battery and was going nowhere, is that normal?
The degassing hose that was attached to the old battery, I've attached it to the new battery again, but where should it go on the other end?
My hose was only attached to the battery and was going nowhere, is that normal?
. I guess my old battery was also connected to that hole and I just didn't notice it when I was lifting the battery.
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Jun 29, 2020 03:11 AM