First-time I Changed My Own Oil: DB9
First-time I Changed My Own Oil: DB9
Encouraged by the postings of dallasbaker and aston1936 (spmcevoy), I changed my 2006 DB9's oil by myself today.
What I learned:
-Most anyone CAN do this. Follow the directions of folks like those I mentioned above, and all will be fine.
-You CAN do the job without removing the front shield under the car. I did that, accessing the drain plug through the access hole, with no problems.
-As everyone notes, you have to remove the driver's side throttle body to access the filter on an LHD car. I was fortunate in that I could remove the filter by hand, because most filter wrenches won't have as much maneuvering and access room as you'd like.
-The "stick your finger in the filter's center threaded hole then pull up carefully" method worked for me to extract the filter once unscrewed. It's tight and you have to push hoses out of the way, but it can be done.
-Look for aston1936's video on removing the clamps on the throttle bodies.
-Removing the bolts on the throttle bodies is a pain because of tight access. Be careful reinstalling them, because there isn't much margin for error (get all four threaded before tightening them too much).
-I suspect that each time my car got an oil change the person doing the job only removed and cleaned the throttle body on the driver's side, because the one on the passenger side was much grungier.
-Bite the bullet and buy a can of the specific solvent designed for cleaning throttle bodies. Some of the varnish around the butterflies' sealing position was pretty stubborn.
-Torque the drain plug to the correct spec when you replace it. I understand that over-torqueing can cause leaks.
-Buy some oil-absorbing towels and stuff them around and under the oil filter before unscrewing it.
-The scariest thing for me was putting my beloved car up on four jack stands when the stands need to go in the place that you're supposed to jack the car at. I followed aston1936's procedure, and it worked.
All this info came from others...this post is just to encourage those who've never tried it that the advice works. Just be patient and allow plenty of time for a first attempt.
Good luck!
What I learned:
-Most anyone CAN do this. Follow the directions of folks like those I mentioned above, and all will be fine.
-You CAN do the job without removing the front shield under the car. I did that, accessing the drain plug through the access hole, with no problems.
-As everyone notes, you have to remove the driver's side throttle body to access the filter on an LHD car. I was fortunate in that I could remove the filter by hand, because most filter wrenches won't have as much maneuvering and access room as you'd like.
-The "stick your finger in the filter's center threaded hole then pull up carefully" method worked for me to extract the filter once unscrewed. It's tight and you have to push hoses out of the way, but it can be done.
-Look for aston1936's video on removing the clamps on the throttle bodies.
-Removing the bolts on the throttle bodies is a pain because of tight access. Be careful reinstalling them, because there isn't much margin for error (get all four threaded before tightening them too much).
-I suspect that each time my car got an oil change the person doing the job only removed and cleaned the throttle body on the driver's side, because the one on the passenger side was much grungier.
-Bite the bullet and buy a can of the specific solvent designed for cleaning throttle bodies. Some of the varnish around the butterflies' sealing position was pretty stubborn.
-Torque the drain plug to the correct spec when you replace it. I understand that over-torqueing can cause leaks.
-Buy some oil-absorbing towels and stuff them around and under the oil filter before unscrewing it.
-The scariest thing for me was putting my beloved car up on four jack stands when the stands need to go in the place that you're supposed to jack the car at. I followed aston1936's procedure, and it worked.
All this info came from others...this post is just to encourage those who've never tried it that the advice works. Just be patient and allow plenty of time for a first attempt.
Good luck!
Last edited by zuman; Apr 16, 2016 at 03:52 PM.
Congrats for tackling it yourself. Saved about $400 I'd say.. My dealer charges around $600 for an oil change.. Ridiculous!
Working on these cars is such a pleasure..I really enjoy it very much and the more you do, the more you'll want to do.
Last winter I wanted to clean the inside of my rear window (tight squeeze to climb in back seat), so I wound up removing the passenger seat to get better access. This lead to removing most of the rear interior pieces to clean/treat the leather. I enjoyed every moment of it.
It's addicting.. Cheers!
Working on these cars is such a pleasure..I really enjoy it very much and the more you do, the more you'll want to do.
Last winter I wanted to clean the inside of my rear window (tight squeeze to climb in back seat), so I wound up removing the passenger seat to get better access. This lead to removing most of the rear interior pieces to clean/treat the leather. I enjoyed every moment of it.
It's addicting.. Cheers!
The biggest issue I have with changing the oil is getting rid of the oil. I have to go to the county drop off site 10 miles away. Years ago I would just bury it in the backyard
Now we know better

Now we know better
I invested $13.99 for a FloTool 16-quart drain pan/container from AdvanceAuto because I didn't want to have to switch pans in the middle of a 12-quart drain procedure. It's a great tool: it's both a catch-pan and an oil container, so I just laid it under the plug, removed it, let the oil drain into the pan, inserted the sealing cap, wiped it off, then used it to take the old oil to the store where they disposed of it for free.
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