I have now added the page to my favorites
I will be doing my brake fluid tomorrow and have managed to get 1.5 liters of Motul RBF 660 as recommended

Can I ask what is the meaning of wet boiling point and dry boiling point? It was mentioned in the video and I see it on the bottle

The 660 is a total overkill for my driving style but as Telum says if you can get it ,do it.
Will report back on any difference in pedal feel, my fluid has not been done for over 4 years

 

Think of it as new vs used brake fluid ratings. Brake fluid absorbs water over time, and that's bad for brake fluid because water boils very easily. New brake fluid is "dry" because it hasn't absorbed any water. Used brake fluid is "wet" because it has absorbed water. The more water content in the brake fluid, the easier it is to boil because water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid. That means, the older the brake fluid, the easier it is to boil compared to when it's new. The "dry" and "wet" boiling points are standardized based on water content so the boiling point of brake fluids can be compared based on how much water each has absorbed.

Hope that helps

 

No difference in pedal feel with 660, in fact the fluid that came out my car looked new.... all this hype about changing fluid every so many months is a load of crap!



I don't track my car, so for you road guys don't sweat it .... leave it for a few years.
I did learn I need new rear pads and new rear tyres, will do that in the next few days.

For what it's worth a full fluid change on all 4 wheels and clutch used less than one liter so don't buy three bottles like I did.

 

+1 - I don't remember changing the fluid on a street car. The fluid is very hygroscopic, but we just don't create enough heat in the system under normal driving for it to be a problem. A 10 year flush seems prudent regardless.

I've seen a lot of new performance cars drive off from boiling the fluid at the track. We flush the fluid on our track car after every event.

chr

 

You wont be able to tell just by looking at the old fluid if it is good or not.
There are tests you can do with a multimeter to check the water percentage content (or even a cheap brake fluid tester for around $5) but at least you now know your fluid is at its optimum.

Surprised you managed to completely replace the fluid with just one bottle (500ml?) as when i did mine was around 1.5 litres.

 

Just under a liter about 960ml I put through I have not done the clutch bleed yet.

 

The lifespan of (glycol based DOT4) brake fluid is time based and dependant on the local atmosphere.
Good engine oil can be mostly regarded as mileage based.So if you only do 2000km of road miles per year then change oil every 2+ years.
If you live at the coast (humid) then change the brake fluid every 2 years--regardless of driving style.
PS-Greg did Killarney track day last week--came home and changed oil and brake fluid.Now I also need new tyres

 

I concur. As it has been pointed out, brake fluid is hygroscopic. For any Aston, my recommendation is to change it every 2-3 years even under ordinary driving use, (obviously much more frequently, if you track it). Why? my experience is that more frequent changes will extend the life of the calipers and master cylinder. Any competent auto shop can do it or, if you are handy, you can do it yourself.

 

so I changed the brake fluid and old one came out lookign like new. My mobile mechanic wanted to stop and say this is still new! I forced him to change.

Last time it was done was 4 years ago 18k miles ago.

Dont really feel a difference in braking but was nice to know it has new fluid.

In my other cars I havent changed the fluid in 4-8 years and its still driving well Altought it may be time to change.

 

Brake fluid is only going to 'look' used if the car is driven. The more the car is driven, and the harder it's driven, the darker it will get.
Water absorption doesn't change the color of the fluid on its own - it changes the ability of the brake fluid to handle the heat generated by braking without boiling.

 

As for pedal feel... The pedal won't feel different unless your outgoing fluid has been boiled.

An example of why all this brake fluid stuff matters: If your fluid is fine but old (and therefore has water content), when you get hard on the brakes, the heat from that will boil the fluid. When the fluid boils, it turns from liquid into gas. Gas in compressible, so the pedal goes further down to the floor. This makes you press the pedal even harder to get back that braking, and that generates even more heat, which makes the problem worse. That why loss of brakes very often happens at the end of a long straight, and somewhat "suddenly".

To put this into a more common situation: Say your fluid is 5 years old and feels fine, but you rarely drive the car and when you do, you drive it very gently on a lovely Sunday with no rain and nobody else on the roads. You're cruising along the highway at 70mph and a deer/wallaby/moose jumps in front of you. You slam on the brakes, but that 'wet' fluid boils. Same as the example above, you've got loss of brakes and end up with a sheep on your lap.

The different fluid ratings (specifically wet and dry boiling points) are there because the harder you use your brakes, the higher boiling point you need - even if the fluid is brand new. Any brake fluid can boil. Even metal can boil if hot enough.

If you don't drive your car hard, you'll be fine with a normal DOT 5.1 brake fluid:
http://www.redpants.lol/shop/motul-dot-51-brake-fluid

If you do the occasional track day or drive your car hard in general, an uprated fluid adds a lot of capability and peace of mind:
http://www.redpants.lol/shop/motul-brake-fluid

If you're an advanced driver and need some serious brake fluid, get something that can handle it:
http://www.redpants.lol/shop/motul-rbf660

I've been using RBF600 for a while, but I'll be making my grey V8V more of a track car so I'll be swapping over to RBF660. My red V8V will be getting RBF600 when I do a bunch of maintenance on it.

Just remember, regardless of what fluid you have... if it's old and has absorbed water, one seriously hard stomp on the brakes can boil it.

 

Thanks Rich
Any advise on the the rear pads your vid is for the fronts, and you did not mention opening and or removing some fluid ?.... not sure how the pad scensor is removed ?.
I will be fitting EBC red stuff pads and will comment .... I have EBC red stuff in stock , only reason,,, but have read I really need porter field?.
The new red stuff comes with antinsqueal stuff molded into It?...

 

Scotty I will get a price on rubber if you need? PS what was your lap time?
I did 1 min 17 seconds


Ok that was on my Panigale I'm too in love with my Vantage to track it

 

Is it recommended to always do a full flush or merely a few fluid ounces at each corner?

 

The pad sensors just pull off and push back on.

The fluid is technically separate and completely independent from the pads, even though they're part of the same system. The pads can affect the fluid (more aggressive pads can generate more heat and that extra heat does affect fluid, which is why you need to have both pads and fluids that can handle the braking you're doing) but they're separate from each other as far as maintenance in concerned.

Brake pad companies are coming up with some interesting noise-reduction techniques. I had EBC Yellow pads on my 4Runner up until very recently, now using EBC Green pads - the Greens came with round "shim" inserts that snap into the brake pistons instead of flat shims or anti-squeal. Weird, but no noise so it must be working.

I always do a full flush. There's no reason not to get a good flush - all you'd be doing is saving a little brake fluid, but that small savings isn't worth the risk of having 'wet' spots in your brake lines.