Happy to say I was finally able to remove the bezel without breaking or damaging anything. I slid thin plastic wedges underneath two sides of the bezel on the front which put pressure on the tabs. Then, working on the underside of the waterfall and the outside of the plastic piece that holds the bezel, I used a pick to pry out each of the two tabs at the back until they released from the bezel. Once it was out and to remove the top and bottom inserts which are also held in by a tab, I inserted thin wedges on both sides of the tab on the back side (see photo) and then used a plastic tool to apply pressure to push the insert out the back. All of this requires that the waterfall be removed from the car, as well as the dock mechanism, whereas the AM tool looks like it can be done without that being done.

 

Finished the job but not without running into an issue with the fob sticking. I'm not sure why since it wasn't sticking before so I did a lot of fiddling and disassembly, reassembly to see if I could figure it out. I thought maybe the Engine/Start inserts were slightly warping the space where the fob is inserted so I removed the chrome bezel and popped the inserts out again, but the fob continued to bind up in the bezel. I also lubricated the slide as outlined in https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...on-switch.html which seemed to resolve some of the sticking I was experiencing in the slide mechanism. In any event, I did what I could and reinstalled the waterfall back into the car. The fob is still sticking a bit and it doesn't pop out the way it used to, but it's working and it looks better than before. There's always the option of buying new parts but given the cost (approx $480US for the chrome bezel alone) I'd really like to avoid that!

 

I finished installing a new bezel in my 2011 V8VS last night. I ran into the same slight key sticking as you did. I took everything back apart and also lubricated things, but am still experiencing sticking of the ECU.

Did you ever resolve your issue? I am going to take another look tonight.

 

Not really unfortunately. The glass key works ok but still seems a bit tight. The valet key however continues to stick. The car is currently in storage for the winter but I may have another run at it come spring. Let me know if you come up with anything.

 

So, I managed to get my key working properly. I took a flashlight and studied the alignment of the bezel while the key was inserted. I could see it was ever so slightly off. I ejected the key, stuck it half way in, and gently twisted in the direction needed to correct the alignment. Works perfectly now.

Disclaimer: Attempt this at your own risk. I am not an AM mechanic, nor am I qualified to give advice.

 

Didn’t think of that. I’ll try it once I get the car back and before I start dismantling things again. Thanks for the update.