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I found the jack points underneath the V8V. The front area is highlighted in red. It's very narrow. Not sure how tire shops get their big circular ends of their lifts to fit this tiny and narrow, rectangular area without damaging the side sills that is wrapped underneath?
I don't understand where to find the rear jack area, highlighted in yellow. It cannot be that entire area right? The middle part doesn't feel that stable.
Last edited by lovingit; Nov 24, 2018 at 07:47 PM.
The rear jacking point is roughly 10" in front of the rear wheel well, with a similar rubber cup on the pin point. A couple of vendors here sell jacking pads that exactly fit the front and rear jack points (front and rear are not the same.) Buy a set and bring it to the tire shop. And watch to make sure they know which is front and rear.
AND, warn the tire shop to not drag their boots across the door sill when they get in and out. Just to be sure, cover the sill with blue painters tape.
David
'07 V8V
Last edited by dshield; Nov 25, 2018 at 09:50 PM.
Reason: clarity
I found the jack points underneath the V8V. The front area is highlighted in red. It's very narrow. Not sure how tire shops get their big circular ends of their lifts to fit this tiny and narrow, rectangular area without damaging the side sills that is wrapped underneath?
I don't understand where to find the rear jack area, highlighted in yellow. It cannot be that entire area right? The middle part doesn't feel that stable.
Is your car a convertible? The rear clearance around the sill looks very restrictive compared to what I've seen before. I also don't have plugs for the holes, mine are just holes. Here's the link to the lift pads that I made for my car.
Mine is a coupe. Yes, the back is VERY restrictive. So the square area to the front of the black circle (that I highlighted in yellow) is NOT stable enough to put the lift correct?
So how does the dealer lift it? Do they just jack up the area, damaging the sills and plastic cover?
Do authorized dealers use those plug areas in lifting cars? I was at a authorized dealer service area here in LA and they were picking up V8Vs with standard round rubber jack pads near those rubber plug areas but they left didn't unplug them or use machined pads with special fitted posts or anything.
I took these in their service area:
I found this info in another thread about the Quickjack. Try searching the forum for “Vantage Jack”
I bought a set of jack pads for my DB9 and they fit perfectly.
wait, so AM owners are supposed to pay $200 for jack plugs so our cars won’t get scratched or sills indented by the lifts if the shops don’t have them? I can’t imagine every shop to be properly equipped. Not to be ignorant, but shouldn’t there be enough clearance to properly lift the car? I see potentially a small amount of room in the front (light grey area highlighted in red from the picture above) but I see absolutely NO room in the rear.
Last edited by lovingit; Nov 25, 2018 at 12:36 AM.
IF you want to prevent slight slight marring on the under neath part of the rocker panel where it meets the area where the jacking holes are, then buy Hockey Pucks and place them between the jack and the car under the holes.
If you want to go one step further, buy a set of specific jack pads from HRM or HSM (forum sponsor) that will fit into your holes and provide a small round surface to jack it up.
NO, dealers and any other company just places their rubber free under the area with he hole and jacks them up.
Several members with Quick Jacks just place the 4" by 3" rubber blocks under the hole area. I do, and honestly what does it matter if a few small scuff marks are on the very edge of the rocker pacnel unseen. Its plastic, so no real damage is occurring other than marring the paint a bit, and lets face it, you will never see it, and it doesn't cause any future issues being exposed to the elements. I am a perfectionist who details the undercarriage of my DB9. Those areas on the rocker are pot marked from road debris and rocks. Jacking my car up multiple times has never put a mark in it that i can see. If my rockers were perfect, they would be covered in PPF, and then it wouldn't really matter at all.
Just make sure the jacking pad is under the small holes.
There are a ton of threads covering this topic, just do a search and read them.
Last edited by SheriffDep; Nov 25, 2018 at 10:15 AM.
With regards to jacking in general. If the manufacturer provides a point of positive purchase on the chassis, such as a hole, a peg, a seam, or a slot, MAKE SURE YOU USE IT when lifting the car with a floor jack or in any situation where the lift isn't picking all four corners of the car up perfectly vertically at once. The features are in place to ensure that the jack does not slip in relation to the body. If it does, the car can slip off the jack and potentially damage the car or cause a serious injury. Specifically with the Aston, I wouldn't lift the car with anything that doesn't poke into the chassis holes located at the factory lift points.
Hi,
In your photo with yellow hash lines, the jacking point and rubber cup are way over to the right of the lines. In the earlier photo with the blue polygon, the same rear jacking point is way over to the right in the small rectangle.
I’ve attempted to attach a photo of the left rear jacking point on my 07 V8V coupe. It’s 51” back of the front point.
David
Last edited by dshield; Nov 25, 2018 at 10:44 AM.
Reason: Add photo
The rear jack area on the 2013 is indeed very tight with the platstic wheel well guard and side skirt. Shops and dealers will just use a rubber pad and lift up on the plastic as others said. It can scuff the plastic, but shouldn't cause any more damage. If you are **** then you can get a set of the aluminum jack pads from HSM that fit up against the metal and have an extension to fit into the plugged up holes so they don't fall off. He didn't have a pattern for the 2013 when I ordered from him, but I worked with him to make one so he should be able to machine you a set.
Does anyone know if there is a central jacking point from the front? I've searched everywhere and the only thing I find is for a DB9 which states that you can jack from the front cross member.
Yes, it looks like you can lift from there on the cross member.
Note thought that in your picture, the rear arms of the lift are not on the jack points. I'm not sure how strong those inner rails are, but I would recommend re-positioning the jack to pick up where the plastic caps are on the jack points.
There is a thread somewhere that a car was lifted improperly, and ended up being totaled due to unrepairable damage.
On your car, you can use a puck or block of wood to clear the bodywork. Roadster has an odd shape that is harder to mate up with.
Thanks again.
The only thing that frightens me about using that piece of the cross member is that it looks welded. I'm not sure why they chose to weld as opposed to a one piece construction, but if it was one piece, I'd feel a lot better.