Hi Everyone,

I found the jack points underneath the V8V. The front area is highlighted in red. It's very narrow. Not sure how tire shops get their big circular ends of their lifts to fit this tiny and narrow, rectangular area without damaging the side sills that is wrapped underneath?

I don't understand where to find the rear jack area, highlighted in yellow. It cannot be that entire area right? The middle part doesn't feel that stable.

 

Here is a better picture of the rear area highlighted in blue. Is the entire blue area safe for jacking?

For some reason, I thought the rear area was the same small rectangular narrow size as the front area.

 

Hi,

The rear jacking point is roughly 10" in front of the rear wheel well, with a similar rubber cup on the pin point. A couple of vendors here sell jacking pads that exactly fit the front and rear jack points (front and rear are not the same.) Buy a set and bring it to the tire shop. And watch to make sure they know which is front and rear.

AND, warn the tire shop to not drag their boots across the door sill when they get in and out. Just to be sure, cover the sill with blue painters tape.

David
'07 V8V

 

Is your car a convertible? The rear clearance around the sill looks very restrictive compared to what I've seen before. I also don't have plugs for the holes, mine are just holes. Here's the link to the lift pads that I made for my car.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...jack-pads.html

 

Mine is a coupe. Yes, the back is VERY restrictive. So the square area to the front of the black circle (that I highlighted in yellow) is NOT stable enough to put the lift correct?

So how does the dealer lift it? Do they just jack up the area, damaging the sills and plastic cover?

 

 

 

 

IF you want to prevent slight slight marring on the under neath part of the rocker panel where it meets the area where the jacking holes are, then buy Hockey Pucks and place them between the jack and the car under the holes.

If you want to go one step further, buy a set of specific jack pads from HRM or HSM (forum sponsor) that will fit into your holes and provide a small round surface to jack it up.

NO, dealers and any other company just places their rubber free under the area with he hole and jacks them up.

Several members with Quick Jacks just place the 4" by 3" rubber blocks under the hole area. I do, and honestly what does it matter if a few small scuff marks are on the very edge of the rocker pacnel unseen. Its plastic, so no real damage is occurring other than marring the paint a bit, and lets face it, you will never see it, and it doesn't cause any future issues being exposed to the elements. I am a perfectionist who details the undercarriage of my DB9. Those areas on the rocker are pot marked from road debris and rocks. Jacking my car up multiple times has never put a mark in it that i can see. If my rockers were perfect, they would be covered in PPF, and then it wouldn't really matter at all.

Just make sure the jacking pad is under the small holes.

There are a ton of threads covering this topic, just do a search and read them.

 

With regards to jacking in general. If the manufacturer provides a point of positive purchase on the chassis, such as a hole, a peg, a seam, or a slot, MAKE SURE YOU USE IT when lifting the car with a floor jack or in any situation where the lift isn't picking all four corners of the car up perfectly vertically at once. The features are in place to ensure that the jack does not slip in relation to the body. If it does, the car can slip off the jack and potentially damage the car or cause a serious injury. Specifically with the Aston, I wouldn't lift the car with anything that doesn't poke into the chassis holes located at the factory lift points.

 

 

The rear jack area on the 2013 is indeed very tight with the platstic wheel well guard and side skirt. Shops and dealers will just use a rubber pad and lift up on the plastic as others said. It can scuff the plastic, but shouldn't cause any more damage. If you are **** then you can get a set of the aluminum jack pads from HSM that fit up against the metal and have an extension to fit into the plugged up holes so they don't fall off. He didn't have a pattern for the 2013 when I ordered from him, but I worked with him to make one so he should be able to machine you a set.

David

 

Does anyone know if there is a central jacking point from the front? I've searched everywhere and the only thing I find is for a DB9 which states that you can jack from the front cross member.

 

The workshop manual says the V8V can be lifted from the front cross member.




If you don't have a copy of this, you can download here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6dc6m3w62...anual.pdf?dl=0

 

Thanks a lot. To confirm, jacking where circled in red is no problem assuming using a hock puck?