Hi, will you put the group buy on here or on your website? could you send an email out when its released

steve

 

I'm in.

 

And that's the issue, from a cost-benefit analysis.

Yes, it will look cool under the hood. Yes, it will make more noise. Both of those are good things.

But I'm waiting for the dyno results to believe the bit about power gains. Pardon my mechanical ignorance, but I'm having some difficulty seeing from the pics where they sit in relation to the OEM air box. As the air box/shielding is deleted, what is to prevent hot engine bay air from being drawn into the filter?

 

You won't be able to see this kit from under the bonnet, filter boxes are located behind front bumper corners in front of the wheel (bottom, and few mm's of the horizontal section of the inner fender liner in front of wheel..small impact in this area cracks the stock box, knocking of filter and sucking in unfiltered air..LOL in your case rocks and birds).

If your travelling forward, your not going to have much/if any engine heat in the filter zone, it's the reason why Aston has bonnet and side strake venting to release the hot air/pressure while driving. If you were at idle, the delete kit might actually breath in cooler air being it's trying to suck from below versus sucking primarily in front of the radiator. Your V12VS stock boxes have flaps that open and suck from the airbox area when under heavy load, this pretty much bypasses the frontal induction and mirrors the same location this delete kit draws in air. We did not re-invent the wheel, we just designed a street version of the Aston Martin GT4 style kit. The GT4 is a wedge plate that gets drilled into the front bumper crash brace(Welcoming lawsuits for street applications), instead of going this route we just made our own design that would bolt into place without the need to modify anything.

Now, lets say we had every single model on hand, lined up and ready to dyno, it would still be impossible to get numbers for this kind of modification..simply being we would not be able to simulate the front air on the vehicle at every speed. We'd need a vehicle on the dyno in a wind tunnel with the wind calibrated/scaled to the dyno rollers and tire size. If we just put a vehicle on a dyno and tested before/after, we'd just be proving how insufficient the stock box is at taking in air from a paint dryer fan sitting on the ground on front. Even a nice large fan in front would not be proving the gains you would see in 2nd gear versus top of 6th at +200mph. This is mainly why dyno testing an intake is worthless in my mind unless done correctly in a wind tunnel environment, otherwise I could just shift the placement of the fan and skew either of the results to benefit either design.

I really wanted to change the MAF placement which would result in affecting the size, but this would require dyno testing every model to re-scale the MAF sensor, making this product only yield to guys willing to tune the ecu. By doing it this way, we don't touch the OEM emissions system and we don't affect the engine operation, making is near impossible for Aston to try and void a clients warranty by adding in this delete kit.

 

Jeez, I was looking for a detailed response, and then you come up with this simplified version...

BTW I'm sure that bird was worth at least a couple of extra hp!

 

 

How are you guy's feeding air into the filter area. On mine we eliminated the OEM ducting entirely and used 2.5 hose routed thru blocking panels. The blocking panels reduced the opening thru the OEM side panels once we pulled the ducting. This assured the radiator is boxed to at least the level originally delivered by Aston . Our goal being maximum air pressure in front of the radiator which would otherwise be bled off thru the side panels if the stock ducting is removed.

The added flaps to the boxes was a pretty good indicator the stock ducting system was quite restrictive at higher RPM. I thought I saw 10 hp, but maybe not.

Someone stated the race cars eliminated the ducting entirely and pulled air thru the side panels, but I have never been able to verify it and I am quite surprised Aston would use such a design. Especially when I see all of the beautifully engineered ducting on their race cars. It is hard for me to believe they would allow air pressure to be vented around the radiator. Look at the effort they went to to duct exhaust air on the back side of the oil cooler down thru the engine plate and not thru the radiator.

Can you provide any knowledge on this?

x-chr

 

 

 

 

You can always source your own pre-filter.

https://www.outerwears.com/

 

The problem with dry filters is supply/demand/pricing. If right now, we sourced dry filters like Dinan, this would make our current "cost" of each filter near +95USD x2 filters - +180USD filter Cost price + brackets + mark-up. We don't plan on selling this kit for +500USD, just to have a dry filter option, we want it priced right.

I totally understand the dry filter PROS, it's definitely something we're looking into providing a choice. For a dry option, we won't be able to buy-in from a dealer, we'll need to make our own to keep sale price reasonable. Now, I'm also aware of the dry filter CONS, which is the lesser flowing restriction in comparison to an oiled type. The dry as a large element area, I don't see flowing any more air than a stock paper element. Also the V8 guys won't have much of an issue with contamination, but the V12 crowd will soak the dry element in engine oil from the PCV system. On the V12's, the motor oil vapor collects just after the throttle's and when powered down, the vapor turns to fluid and motor oil runs back to the air filters. If you invested in dry filters, you would be spending a nice chunk of time trying to save and clean out the oil contamination on the inside through a 3.25 inch hole (hehe..how big's your hand?). By doing the oiled option, it's more feasible in cost+your time to just replace the filter versus spending time to wash out and re-use...

Something else I've been more in favor of looking into, is the ability to use an ITG filter as an option. But.. regardless of my own opinion, we can beat this issue for days/weeks/months/years and still not come to a truce among filter types..it's the most common debated issue on every single automotive forum site..LOL

 

I don't see the point or need. In the stock OEM upgraded Sport air box, the paper element doesn't get wet and a nice portion is raw exposed to the front of the vehicle. I've used the screens in past on other projects, the screen would actually collect water on the top of the filter where the screen cord is located (allowing the water to drip inside screen and onto filter element..it's not a waterproof seal). If water ingress became an issue, a shield plate would be the solution.

 

hello
why don't optimize with better air intake flow with a bellmouth cone and big filter on ?
as those :

 

If we were cutting a hole in the front bumper, I'd see the benefits of a bell mouth..otherwise if the engine is naturally aspirated with bolt-ons and breathing from the stock 2 x MAF 3inch tubes, I don't see the benefits. If we're chasing from extra power in a forced induction setup OR single runners on a natural aspirated engine, then I'd also see the PROS. For a simple intake to delete the air-boxes and be reasonably priced, don't think the bell mouths are going to achieve anything worth the extra costs.

A lot of these mammoth intake kits that enlarge the air filter opening, add on bell mouths..they are either running a MAP sensor setup OR the MAF sensor tube is enlarged to benefit from the larger filter and tube opening. If you wanted to go that route with a different MAF tube, the engine ECU would need to be calibrated/tuned for the larger tube, otherwise the vehicle will be flagging numerous fueling lean codes every-time you drove the car. It's one of the main reasons vehicles with MAF sensors have to be tuned when the MAF is transferred over to the high flowing intake, otherwise lean codes are stored. This is something we're avoiding..