Wow, that is a sweet sound!

 

A wee snifter of the good stuff!

 

I have a bottle of Rip Van Winkle (Pappy's 10 year) that I have been saving... But maybe some scotch would be more appropriate!

 

Hello again, and congrats on your awesome project.
More questions for you: I ordered same exact enginetech pistons, however, mine came without rings ...
Were yours the same? if that is the case, where did you order rings from?

I think I should create my own thread soon, so i dont distract people from your project

 

My pistons came with rings, wrist pins and keepers. Bought them on eBay...

 

Hello
I'm starting work on my 2012 Virage Volante, I have three connecting rods bent, I wonder if my car has the same connecting rod as yours DB9?



Thanks

 

Those photos are automotive snuff ****. It will have bent the crank as well. But yes, those are the same conn rod and pistons.

 

Yesterday I brought a crank from a machine shop, good news, she's fine.

Do you know where I can find torque specifications for the engine?

Thanks

 

I used the ones in the manual for the car that is downloadable. Where they didn't specify in the manual I used the ones for the modular ford V8 found online. Good luck!

 

Thanks

 

I have followed this adventure with growing admiration. A wonderful example of inventiveness and dedication. I found the fact that many parts were basic Ford bits very interesting. Many years ago, probably in the 80s, I know a bloke who bought a LamborghiniEspada with a blown engine. He was a mechanical engineer and in the rebuild process, he was able to source many parts from other more mundane manufacturers at huge cost savings. For my part, I have been pretty pleased with just being able to rebuild MG Midget and Mini Cooper engines so your project was really enjoyable to follow. Hope you are enjoying your DB9 - one of my all-time favourites. My garage has my 1961 Bug Eye Sprite; 1976 V12 XJC Jaguar and 2003 996 Porsche Targa.

 

I admire the work that you have put into this project! WOW!
How about the cause that created this breakdown. Oil-starvation due to PCV-circuit failure?

 

I don't know if the PCV circuit failed, but I do know that when I got it it only had 6 quarts of oil in it. Further investigation confirmed that at 26K miles the air filters were old enough and nasty enough to be original (build dates in 2005). I couldn't tell if the oil filter was original but the bellly pans had been off with evidence of shade tree repairs. I ordered the Carfax and it had 6-7 owners. The service manager at AM Washington was nice enough to run the VIN and confirmed it's NJ/FL/Wash state residences and claimed that it had been serviced.

My theory is that the car was loved but loathed. People bought it, drove it a bit, and right before a major maint, passed it on to the next owner. A caution, and why a car with an **** owner who truly verifies and documents the state of the car is worth a premium, or at least the one you want to buy from.

In this case, I had Level 3 AMD (severe AM Disease) but no funds to buy the cure. I went into this fully expecting to find what I found and to date the only pleasant surprise is that I was able to get it out, put it back, and have it run.

After spending time scouring the web, watching the videos, and staring at engine parts, here's my assessment of the V12. The oiling system is based on the Duratec / Modular Fold engines. These work reliably for I4, V6 & V8. The one notable is that the heads will pool oil in sustained g load (sweeper on/off highway) causing pump starvation. This is due to the narrowness of the return passages back from the heads to the sump. Ford owners will run 1/2quart up to keep the oil level up. Note that the V12 has one of the most exotic windage tray ever made. This to keep the oil from getting flung up by the crank when you have a full sump. Really nice, and obviously done to keep the pump happy.

As we know the V12 derives it's running gear from Ford. All the parts that could be bought from the Ford Global Supply Chain were bought there... It's why we have 8 O2 sensors, and 2 ECMs, it is cheaper (and less NRE/Risk in design) to use 2 of everything that build a custom system that only uses one...

The oil pump is a custom casting...It has windage casting on the back side which is unique to the AM. It runs a 70 PSI relief spring (similar to the Jags). Sure it burns more gas to pump more oil, but it is a long way from the pump to the back of the block.

We all know that bearing support a thin film of oil, the oil keeps the moving parts away from the nonmoving parts... Oil weight/Oil Pressure/RPM (which equates to loads) are all hotly debated, but in the Ford Modulars run a .002-.0025 on the main bearings (which dominate oil use & pressure) with a 5-30w oil and a 60 PSI spring.

The V-12 runs a 0-40W and a 70 PSI spring and specs .0009-.0019" main bearings. So it runs a slightly lighter oil supported on much tighter tolerances. There is no stock oil pressure gauge, and the pressure sensor measures at the camshaft button. The pressure sensor goes on at 6 PSI, which is a cry for help. I've added a pressure sensor at the oil filter and another cam button, which were the only easy locations to tap into.

All of which is a way of saying that, oil starvation killed this motor, and if cylinders are going to be starved it would be the 6/12 pair because they are furthest from the pump. Going forward, I'm going to make sure the oil temperature is fully warmed up before exercising the engine (wear increases dramatically with cold/thick oil) and use Blackstone Oil Analysis to monitor the state of the oil. And as the engine gets older, I will use a ZDDP additive with the oil change.

 

Hi there, it's me again
Pistons are in, and some thing were different in my case, my pistons didn't arrive with rings so i ordered them separately.
Sealed Power E-931K - apparently those are chrome molly - at least the first ring is
Can you describe how you did the oil pressure gauge? pictures and parts if possible.
Thank you

 

Good luck on your motor. FWIW, I know from experience that you need to set the mains to to spec (.0009-.0019") or you will have low oil pressure!

There really isn't a good location to grab oil pressure on the V12. I have an oil filter adapter, which allows me to run a shorter oil filter and confirm pressure at the pump exit. I also have a dual pressure-temperature sensor/gauge kit. This is installed on the opposite bank from the oil pressure warning sensor (idiot light). You can see it on the LHS of the motor - it's all the shiny brass.... I used a brass T to attach them to the block to maintain a tight clearance. The wiring snakes around the back of the motor with the harness and through the firewall in parallel with the primary harness. I mounted the gauge in the passenger footwell on the center console.

I bought the oil filter adapter (22X1.5), pressure-temp gauge kit (which comes with "everything"), and the gauge mount from Glowshift direct.

Gauge on right, separate Voltmeter in Cigarette lighter...

Pressure/Temp sensor on Bank 2 (LHS) above.