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Sorry for the late post as I am not on here much. From what I have read, you are not supposed to use aftermarket O2 sensors as they can cause problems. Try some British websites such as gsparkplug.com for OEM O2 sensors. Also check out: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...atibility.html
All the best! Let us know what happens.
Sorry for the late post as I am not on here much. From what I have read, you are not supposed to use aftermarket O2 sensors as they can cause problems. Try some British websites such as gsparkplug.com for OEM O2 sensors. Also check out: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...atibility.html
All the best! Let us know what happens.
What kind of problems are they suggesting might happen? See my post following this one to see where I stand. Thanks for your input!
Okay everyone, so I replaced the battery and took my old battery to Autozone. Old battery tested GOOD. At any rate, after plugging everything back together, with new AGM battery and my OE equivalent Walker plugs, the car fired up with no codes (except p1000). Ran perfectly for about 6 or 7 minutes and then started again with the intermittent rough idle (every 4 or 5 minutes). By the end of 15 minutes of idling, I ended up with with P2198 code again! So with new O2 sensors and battery, I'm back to about where I started, throwing O2 sensor stuck rich codes, LOL.
I can't drive my car right now due to the roads and salt, but I'll eventually need to road test it and see how it goes to get a full diagnostic. So if anyone tracking this were in my position, would they replace the O2 sensors with genuine AM sensors to see if that fixes it, or is there enough information here suggesting my problems are elsewhere? I guess it's possible my initial P2196 and P2198 codes triggering this repair may have actually been coming from somewhere other than the O2 sensors. Is there anything I can do with my OBD2 scanner to see if my oxygen sensors are truly a culprit? I'm open to all ideas, including the spark plug and coil replacement, if that's what this all points to, even at 6200 miles on the vehicle. Fun.
EDIT: Forgot to mention that I pulled a bunch of applicable fuses to make sure they weren't blown, listed below. I also show a "Tire System Fault" on the cluster for some reason, but I am hoping this will go away upon driving.
Your getting rich fuel mixture reading from new oxygen sensors, and your having symptoms of misfires. New O2 sensors are not wrong. Misfire corrections have not been set with your battery replacement. Those need to be learned before it will register to identify a cylinder and or ID a cylinder misfire. Cut bait and replace the ignition coils and spark plugs.
Your getting rich fuel mixture reading from new oxygen sensors, and your having symptoms of misfires. New O2 sensors are not wrong. Misfire corrections have not been set with your battery replacement. Those need to be learned before it will register to identify a cylinder and or ID a cylinder misfire. Cut bait and replace the ignition coils and spark plugs.
Just for full awareness, I showed codes P2196 and P2198 on my old O2 sensors, as well. The codes seem to be constant between my old sensors and new. I may have to just set aside a weekend or two and take apart the top of the engine, using Aston1936's tutorials. Interested to see if anything else jumps out before I spend a couple grand on parts alone.
I will definitely make it a priority to learn the misfire correction procedure as soon as I can get on the road. I'll report here what I find with respect to misfire values.
The misfire learning is easy. Get on a nice stretch of straight road, and accelerate easily to 70 mph. Let off the gas and coast down to 35-40 mph. Do not touch the brake or you will have to do it again. Do it twice and it should be learned Drive for bit and see if you get lots of misfire codes. One or 2 of them will probably have lots of misfires compared to the others.
Will definitely learn the misfire correction as soon as I can. In the meantime and while I can still work on the car, does anyone know if a bad PCM could cause misfires? When I threw all these codes and the car went into limp mode earlier, several codes pointed to the PCM. When I read the attached diagnostic manual page regarding my current HEGO codes, some of these point to the PCM, as well. I admit I don't know how to measure the continuity and resistance the way they suggest in order to diagnose the PCM, but I'm interested to know if it could be related to misfires as well, so I don't perform a plug/coil replacement if I actually have a faulty PCM. That'd be a bad feeling.
What kind of problems are they suggesting might happen? See my post following this one to see where I stand. Thanks for your input!
If you use non-OEM O2 sensors, you will get error codes. I wouldn't do it at all. Look at the web link I shared earlier. I think gsparkplug.com sells the OEM plug/play sensors at a fraction of dealer cost, if I recall when I researched.
Thanks for the continued support on this everyone. While my car still has hesitation and lumpy idle, I also noticed that I got a plethora of codes the exact MOMENT that I plugged in my Foxwell NT530 OBDII scanner into my car's BODY port while it was running. I had meant to plug it into the OBDII port, but didn't expect anything bad to happen anyway. As soon as I plugged it in, I got a red triangle and the cluster read some different messages, stating that traction control was temporarily off, DTC needed serviced, and emergency system service required or something like that. I ended up with the following pending codes:
Bank 1
P1000 - DTC--System check not completed since last memory clear
P1656 - DTC--CAN Link PCM/PCM Circuit/Network
P2106 - DTC--Throttle actuator control system - forced limited power
U0073 - DTC--Control module communication bus off
U0121 - DTC--Lost communication with ABS control module
U0146 - DTC--Lost communication with gateway A
Bank 2
P0606 - DTC--Engine control module - safety microprocessor error
P2105 - DTC--Throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown
U0121 - DTC--Lost communication with ABS control module
U0146 - DTC--Lost communication with gateway A
U0300 - DTC--Internal control module software incompatibility
Brake Control Module (Body)
P0115 - DTC--Steering angle sensor CAN timeout
P0148 - DTC--Steering angle sensor - wrong identifier
I'm not sure if these codes are at all related to my misfires, but my more pointed question is if it's likely that me plugging in my Foxwell while the car is running could have triggered all these codes? Are you guys able to plug yours in while it's running, without issue? I couldn't find any guidance on the instructions. Please let me know, as it will help me determine if these codes are a result of my Foxwell or likely just pure coincidence and I have another problem going on.
UPDATE: For any forum searchers, I am tentatively reporting that we found the issue, as the car seems to run fine now without misfires. Cause was a cracked evap line in the fuel tank, sending unmetered liquid fuel into the fuel tank. This flooded the carbon filter above the fuel tank as well, which needed to be replaced as well. Replaced both parts (among others in the fuel tank) and all appears to be well again.
Hi there, been following your issue with great interest as I have a similar problem but different. 08 DB9 update model. Driving along, car suddenly goes into limp mode with "check fuel system" previous owner had both fuel pumps replaced to try to rectify which obviously it didn't. This happened to me twice at about 2 month intervals (its not a daily driver) both times I pulled over, turned the car off and re started and all good. It has never had lumpy idle and runs like a dream (except in limp mode of course). 2 weeks ago it did same again except it added check emission system, tried to pull over, stop and restart, no good, stayed in limp mode, fortunately I was only 5 minutes from home, also this time after I got home there was a stink of cat converter. Spoke to my mechanic (AM trained and 10 years on AM) said to try car next day and report back. Started car, and apart from the check emission message, no issue. The reason I am interested in your story is that my mechanic mentioned the crack in the fuel tank pipe thing when I told him it does not seem to happen when the fuel tank is less than half full. He doesn't have an AM code reader but his Snap On code reader came up with : 2106 throttle actuator and 2195/2197 O2 sensor signal bias/stuck lean.
Any thoughts or help greatly appreciated. Cheers Dean
