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The 62 is all in pieces in my shop , superstructure is all repaired , engine gearbox/OD is rebuilt . Its waiting for me to get a new set of wings (fenders) for it then it goes back to the bodyshop to get them all fettled and fitted along with door and shroud repairs etc etc .
It will be a couple of years before it even looks like a car again .
its there tucked away looking sad in the corner , on the shelf top right is the original factory hardtop that was sold with the car in 62 .
Last edited by Vantagelvr; Jun 8, 2020 at 03:52 AM.
Car on trickle charge all day , green light , actual voltage measured at the battery 13.8VDC .
Scanned for codes . P0497,P2402,P2406 .
tried drivers window , nothing .
Removed passenger footwell carpet and fuse panel fuse 82 good . Tried pulling fuse as its supposed to reset the window modules ? As per thread on piston heads . Didnt work .
Screw it when all else fails disconnect the battery .
Disconnected ground side as its easier to get to . Lots of clicking from fuse panel and TPMS module with ground disconnected. Reconnected after 15 or so secs .
Windows working , ran both windows through reset cycle . Passenger window good . Drivers window works and dips but wont raise once the door closes .......weird .
Anyways erased codes will take for a drive later but will disconnect battery charger once at full charge again and monitor voltage drop till I drive it again but that probably wont be till the weekend .
I think your good on the batt. IIRC I've experienced all of this Evap nonsense. My findings (at least 4 times) .
Take the car and fill it full of fuel. Drive it and try to get some highway miles in. Don't let the tank go below 1/2 refill and drive normally but do try to get some highway miles in. Drive it every day and typically mine corrects itself within a few days. This last time took 3 days of putting around. Nothing extra. Shop to work 11 miles varied up to 50 miles/hr. Errands during the day stop and go and back home at night.
It needs exercise and don't put it away with an empty tank.
Once that does not go your way - maybe something is wrong with it .
Hey I just remembered I did get about 25 miles of interstate driving also. Just ran the speed limit. Keep it full of gas and make sure to click the cap. It seems like every time it corrects itself it is at startup at the beginning of a day.
Update .
Battery Voltage maintaining at 13.4VDC . Disconnected both terminals waited two mins or so and reconnected .
Did window reset procedure . Both working both dipping correctly on open/door closure .
Im going to just drive and see what happens with the emission codes .
I do remember back in the winter when gas price took a nose dive I went out and stocked upon high test and topped off all the cars , maybe I overfilled the Aston and fuel got into something it shouldn't and it just needs to evaporate and been drawn out of all the emission vapour system ?
Voltage at battery car idling 14.3VDC .
Who knows , thats why I love my Healeys so easy to work on , no computer science degree needed , fuel , spark , ignition go .
Suck ,Squeeze, Bang , Blow (minds out of the gutter please ) intake , compression, ignition , exhaust .
Irish posted up some kind of Coast Down procedure. I never got it to work, but have a feeling just driving it around over time duplicates and corrects the problem. I don't think you over filled it. Letting sit seems to be at least one cause for this problem. One thing I've found is to keep it at least 3/4 full of fuel until it corrects itself. Not while your driving. You can run it down to empty, but immediately fill it with fuel, but don't put it away with less than 3/4 fuel - even over night.
That said, if you fill it and let it sit for a couple of months don't be surprised if it triggers the codes. Then you get to try again, fretting all the while if it's really broken
I hear you on the simplicity - a 2900 lb stripped GT with minimal electronics (no phone, no nav, manual seats, maybe lexan etc.) - that would really have been something. Tough to sell those I guess, but what a car.
The coast down procedure for learning the misfires is easy - straight road driving 55-70 mph, not turning steering wheel and touching brake. Drive for a minute or so, then coast to 45. Repeat. Somewhere on the forum is the official procedure. I have it in my files so if it is needed I can post it.