Vantage wheel studs, wheel spacers, zany nuts...What am I dealing with, here?
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From: Hollywoo
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Vantage wheel studs, wheel spacers, zany nuts...What am I dealing with, here?
I'm trying to remove the spacers the previous owner put on my car, but it looks like I'll have to do a lot more than just unbolt things...I'm trying to figure out if I need to buy new wheel studs and lug nuts, what size to buy, and what's involved with replacing them.
Up front, the studs stick out 42mm with coarse threads. The lug nuts I have extend deeper into the wheel than the stock ones, so I'm hoping new lug nuts are all I'll need there (without the spacer, they bottom out before securing the wheel).
In the rear, it looks like the original studs were cut and the adapters secured with nuts like I've never seen before. These studs stick out 31mm with a fine thread.
How far should studs stick out from the factory (or, what length are the stock studs) front and rear ? Presumably they're all coarse threads stock? I've read that Aston sells complete hubs and not studs, but surely there are some same-spec studs that I can hammer in? With a set of 20 lug nuts running $260 from Scuderia, I'm daunted by the cost of messing with the hubs at all...
Up front, the studs stick out 42mm with coarse threads. The lug nuts I have extend deeper into the wheel than the stock ones, so I'm hoping new lug nuts are all I'll need there (without the spacer, they bottom out before securing the wheel).
In the rear, it looks like the original studs were cut and the adapters secured with nuts like I've never seen before. These studs stick out 31mm with a fine thread.
How far should studs stick out from the factory (or, what length are the stock studs) front and rear ? Presumably they're all coarse threads stock? I've read that Aston sells complete hubs and not studs, but surely there are some same-spec studs that I can hammer in? With a set of 20 lug nuts running $260 from Scuderia, I'm daunted by the cost of messing with the hubs at all...
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I bought a set of hubs (4G43-2B663-AD) from Aston Parts 24/7 and measured the studs.
Stud length: 65mm
Thread length to hub face: 49mm
Hub "depth": 11mm
Thread: M14x2.0
Stud length: 65mm
Thread length to hub face: 49mm
Hub "depth": 11mm
Thread: M14x2.0
Last edited by Tremelune; Jul 9, 2021 at 07:29 AM.
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I finally managed to get rid of the rear spacers/adapters. I couldn't see any way to knock out the old studs without removing the hubs from the carrier, so I felt it made sense to simply replace them. My front studs were stock in the end, so I didn't mess with them. I couldn't find any splined drivers that fit the nuts on my car, so I had to remove them with an EZ-out. It worked pretty well.
It's straightforward, but a bit involved. I made a video of the process:
https://bit.ly/vantage-hubs
It's straightforward, but a bit involved. I made a video of the process:
https://bit.ly/vantage-hubs
Last edited by Tremelune; Jul 9, 2021 at 07:42 AM.
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A few things worth noting:
- It's not mentioned in the manual, but you must remove the ride height sensor (for leveling the headlights) or you won't be able to get the left side axle out. I think it's one bolt.
- Be careful where you move/set your handbrake caliper, as the tube that houses the cable is weak before the bend...It's not hard to fatigue it into cracking.
- The axle bolts I received were a few mm longer than the ones I removed from the car, but they worked fine.
- If you've ever wondered why Aston lug nuts cost $5, it's because they are of high quality.
- It's not mentioned in the manual, but you must remove the ride height sensor (for leveling the headlights) or you won't be able to get the left side axle out. I think it's one bolt.
- Be careful where you move/set your handbrake caliper, as the tube that houses the cable is weak before the bend...It's not hard to fatigue it into cracking.
- The axle bolts I received were a few mm longer than the ones I removed from the car, but they worked fine.
- If you've ever wondered why Aston lug nuts cost $5, it's because they are of high quality.
Last edited by Tremelune; Jul 9, 2021 at 07:56 AM.
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Why the anti-spacer position? Were they just out too far?
I wish my DB9 had a little wider stance, as by modern standards it looks a tad narrow to the body lines. But I'd probably do about 1/2 the distance, and I'm thinking it might be best reserved for also going to Wilwood lightweight rotors. I'm not sure if the studs themselves can be just tapped out and replaced with new, barely-longer ones.
I wish my DB9 had a little wider stance, as by modern standards it looks a tad narrow to the body lines. But I'd probably do about 1/2 the distance, and I'm thinking it might be best reserved for also going to Wilwood lightweight rotors. I'm not sure if the studs themselves can be just tapped out and replaced with new, barely-longer ones.
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There's no real reason for the wheels/tires to be flush with the bodywork; it's just...fashion, and I don't think it looks better than stock.
Spacers negatively affect the handling of the car as well. The effect is either very slight (if you don't slide your tires around much) or very pronounced (if you can feel differences in tire pressure and what not). When I removed my spacers the car just felt...a touch lighter. Very slight. Adapters are better than spacers, but my car had cheapo spacers up front that pushed them off the hub...Cheap spacers on hub-centric wheels is an invitation to wobble.
This thread discusses it a bit more detail (scrub radius, spring rate, etc):
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...t=1915962&i=20
Spacers negatively affect the handling of the car as well. The effect is either very slight (if you don't slide your tires around much) or very pronounced (if you can feel differences in tire pressure and what not). When I removed my spacers the car just felt...a touch lighter. Very slight. Adapters are better than spacers, but my car had cheapo spacers up front that pushed them off the hub...Cheap spacers on hub-centric wheels is an invitation to wobble.
This thread discusses it a bit more detail (scrub radius, spring rate, etc):
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...t=1915962&i=20
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generally, the wider the track, you lower weight transfer and can increase the grip...obviously you can go overboard...
I think Astons, from the factory, are a compromise on power, handling and other characteristics wrapped up in one of the most stunning looking vehicles ever, which is why people like to modify and tweak their cars...
I have 20" wheels, a wider stance, because I like the look... it doesn't affect handling that much (based on how I drive it...I don't track it, I have another car I do that with)
Track width, geometry, etc make more difference if you track your car
To each his own...
I think Astons, from the factory, are a compromise on power, handling and other characteristics wrapped up in one of the most stunning looking vehicles ever, which is why people like to modify and tweak their cars...
I have 20" wheels, a wider stance, because I like the look... it doesn't affect handling that much (based on how I drive it...I don't track it, I have another car I do that with)
Track width, geometry, etc make more difference if you track your car
To each his own...
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