2020 V8V. planning on replacing my 11 year old battery and wish to avoid a complete code rework/redo as seems to be the case when disconnecting the battery. As such planning on using a 'memory saver odb connector' (solar P/N 248-176-000) to shoot juice into the system and maintain things while swapping out the battery.
The connector gives the provisio that it can be used only if the draw with a shut off engine is less than 4 amps. One also has to wait 25 min after shutoff to ensure all post shut-off procedures are complete
Question; does anyone know what the draw is on the battery at rest in my 2010 V8V? I have no idea what kind of things in shutoff mode would draw 4 amps is vs 1amp vs 500mA
I did post something about this last year regarding the technique itself and it did not seem it was commonly done by owners during said procedure. Any further insight would help

 

After 25 min of shutdown it's less than 50mA unless you have accessories added. Which should be within the parameters regardless.

 

I replaced my battery. I kept the Ctek plugged into the outlet in the trunk. My car had no issues. Windows didn't need to be reset, even Sirius presets were still there. So I wouldn't worry about it.

 

thanks, just the info I needed

 

thanks, will use this as plan B

 

Removing the battery is a pain in the A**. I don't know if you have removed it yet. The bracket on the bottom left is a pain. You need to pull up or push in the trim to slide it completely off, the right one is easy. You will need to remove the bar at the top that the carpeted panel sits in, and pull the carpeted trim away from the battery to get to those hold downs. It takes a bit for force and you don't want to break anything. I replaced with a diehard battery, only one I could find. It is taller that the factory battery, so the hold down that goes over the top of the battery would not fit. I didn't realize this until it was too late, so I didn't install the bracket. But the lower clamps hold the battery tight. I was told the dealer charged around $600 to replace the battery.

 

just replaced the battery on my 2010 v8v with an odyssey pc49-950. battery fits well into the existing tray. I retained the cars settings by connecting the odb port under the drivers side with an odb adapter connected to a 12 v source prior to disconnect. Realizing that the pos cable was live, I wrapped the pos cable with a rubber glove and zip tied it to keep it in place.. Seems to have worked. All settings were retained and the car appears ok.
there were a few quirks in the change-out including the strap having torx bits vs sockets . The removal of the sliding aluminium retainer clamps was difficult. Initially I tried to push in the trim panel on the one side using a custom cut old hockey stick (Carbon see pic) to wedge it back but in the end found that bending the bottom out allowed me to slip in the clamps behind the trim panel and get them aligned. Be careful of all the wiring behind this trim panel
The Odyssey battery is a brute; 28.49 kg (63 lbs). Its an AGM and requires no venting
The old battery is a world source one (pic). I dont know if is the original or a replacement but given that I have had the car for 3 yrs and the prior original owner could not recall changing it, I opted to put in fresh. There was no info on the battery indicating its date of mfg.
I have used odyssey batteries in my sleds and they seem to retain their charge well even when being left all summer without a trickle charger. Come winter my sleds start no problem. Here is hoping this is the same. I want to thank all for the feedback on the project as well as the very useful videos put out by both Redpants and CTP 1111. The video by Redpants highlighting the issue of the retainer clamps put perspective on the job for me; I didnt feel like such an idiot trying to get this job done.And I fully endorse the notion of the Aston engineer who designed this system having his shins bruised

 

I just changed the battery in my 2009 Vantage (original battery), never changed it as I had no issue with it until a few days ago when the car after sitting for a few days wouldn't even turn over... the battery was done. instead of pushing on the trim I pull it and was able to slide the metal pieces very easily, I know fist thought was to push on it until that metal bracket pass but after a quick look pulling on it was the right way to do it and no cutting involved like some other people did. I had to reset my window drop that is it everything else (except the misfire calculation) was all good, took it for a drive and did the misfire process. Back to normal, my engine never spun so fast on initial start so I guess that battery was on its way out for a bit now.

PS: I unplug the battery in my car every year when it goes in storage, it is not the end of the world. Sometimes you might have to do more than Window Drop and Misfire but still easy to do.

 

Just jump the car from your other car with leads ….take care when removing the terminals then at the batt side, reconnect new batt and be done, remove jump leads from engine bay …go get laid simple as that .

 

aye, aye cap'n . the first part is clear .. .its that last part i have trouble with.

 

right ground school for you … 🤪

 

I replaced the battery on my 07 not long ago . It was original to the car , still had the AM logo on it .
removed the battery , drove to the nearest canadian tire , got new battery , returned , installed and connected . Took about 2hrs total , all I had to do was reset the clock and reset the windows .

 

thanks for the response. I did not have to reset anything using the 12v alternate power source plugged into the odb connector. i wonder if you will have to reset your backfire timing? the biggest problem with maintaining a power source to the car it accidently grounding out the pos terminal on the chassis. I was quite careful with this. As has been said, 'you must not cross the streams, it could be bad'. Perhaps I overthought it but in the end it worked out

 

I have driven the car numerous times since I did the battery replacement . Starts , sounds , drives like it always did . No codes , no issues .

 

You can only see if the misfire calculation is done using a OBD-II device and yes you will have to do it after replacing your battery if you did like me and remove the battery without other power source. The steps are fairly easy, drive 50 - 120 km/h going through the gear and leaving it in 6th until you hit 50 then down shift and go through the gear again up to 120, do that 3 times. you have to be in a straight line, no a/c, turn (I also do no radio) no braking just let it coast. you will noticed that the first time when it gets to 60 or so on coasting that the car will shake a little but that is fine and after the 3rd time it would do that anymore.... you are done, you can check with your OBD-II to confirm.