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V8 Vantage Downstream O2 Sensor Part #

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Old Oct 5, 2021 | 08:42 AM
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V8 Vantage Downstream O2 Sensor Part #

EDIT: After a lot of research, back and forth, and buying the wrong parts, I was able to determine (on a call with NGK) that NGK 22106 will work for rear O2 sensors on my 2007 V8 Vantage. At $90 USD for the paid, they're an inexpensive alternative to the OE or other aftermarket setups. A couple of hundred miles on the road and a passed emissions test validated that they do indeed work.

I'm going to replace my rear O2 sensors on my '07 V8 Vantage and am looking for Ford or other part numbers to reduce cost, if possible. I'm told the AM part is 6G33-9G444-AA. There are a few sites that show the following as cross referenced Ford parts.

FORD F07F-9F472-BA
FORD F5 TF 9G 444 CA
FORD 1R3A9G444D2A
FORD XR3F-9G444-CA

Has anyone used these, or other parts? Scuderia used to have the downstream sensors for $80 each. They're now $250 shipped....
 

Last edited by UNDRPSI; Nov 11, 2021 at 08:50 AM.
Old Oct 7, 2021 | 04:45 AM
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try searching for this on ebay.... found several for less than $50, and from what I have read the upstream and downstream are the same just a longer cable

"o2 sensor aston martin vantage 4 wires"

 
Old Oct 8, 2021 | 08:09 AM
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Ebay is the best place for these, the OEM ones are made by NGK / NTK, they are OZA488-AM1 (0042). I've just paid £60 for one.

The OEM ones have short leads for the front, longer leads for the back, and different coloured plugs so you can't go wrong. When you buy NGK / NTK all the leads are long enough to reach the back, so you just need to use cable ties make a loop to get the extra length out of the way, and they all come with white plugs, if that bothers you then use some of the $750 you saved on some sharpies and colour them to match the plugs.
 
Old Oct 8, 2021 | 07:20 PM
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I bought the NTK ones to replace the 2 upstream ( pre- cat) O2 sensors on on our 2007 V8V when it started throwing errors at about 30k miles. 13,000 miles later they are still working great.
 
Old Oct 8, 2021 | 07:46 PM
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i just ordered a couple of these (Oxygen Sensor Downstream For 2005-2008 Ford Escape 2.3L | eBay) because i'm having trouble getting my "secondary air system" monitor to reset and i've read that a "lazy" 02 sensor can cause it, even though there are no check engine lights of faults. so before sending it off to the local dealership for a diagnosis at a minimum of $300 just to tell me what they THINK miight be the problem, i'm going to install them myself. it doesn't look too difficult. maybe i'll get lucky and it will fix the problem.

and for twelve dollars each, delivered free, i can hardly go wrong. i can leave the car on the jackstands and run the car, and if it doesn't run or runs badly, i can throw the old ones back on and only have wasted a couple hours of my time....okay maybe three or four hours.

i'm hoping that i'll get lucky and that what i read was true, that being that all ford 02 sensors are the same that have four wires and the connector works. well see, i guess.
 

Last edited by 61mga; Oct 8, 2021 at 07:56 PM.
Old Oct 9, 2021 | 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 61mga
i just ordered a couple of these (Oxygen Sensor Downstream For 2005-2008 Ford Escape 2.3L | eBay) ...
i'm hoping that i'll get lucky and that what i read was true, that being that all ford 02 sensors are the same that have four wires and the connector works. well see, i guess.
Will be interesting to see how you get on. Over the last week, I ordered the correct ones (OZA488-AM1) on ebay and the seller sent a completely different one, OZA816-EE1. The plug looks the same, but this wasn't what I'd ordered so am sending it back. I need the car for a trip to Scotland next week, so ordered the correct ones from a different ebay seller, checked the code with them before ordering it, and it arrived this morning. Can't believe it, this different seller has sent me the same wrong part as the other seller. I don't think there is time to get another one sent before we leave, so will have to just clear the codes and hope it runs OK
 
Old Oct 9, 2021 | 07:52 AM
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Hey guys,

I am about to upgrade my manifolds and I'm wondering if I should just replace the upstream and downstream O2 sensors while I'm down there. Not sure how easy it is to get to once the manifolds and cats are installed.

For the downstream sensors the part number seems to be: 6G33-9G444-AA

I went to this site (never heard of this before) and cross-referenced that part number and it gave me a list of all compatible parts

https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/6014983...339g444aa.html

Apparently these are the compatible ones:

NGK 1707
Hoffer 7481029
Meat&Doria 81029
Aston Martin 6G33 9G444 AA; SPD 5551; SPD 5552

Let me know your thoughts
 
Old Oct 10, 2021 | 06:58 AM
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An update on my previous post, NTK (the ceramics branch of NGK) make the OEM sensors for our cars, and in Jan '21 started to rationalise their range, apparently the only difference between many of the different types was the length of the wire, so they have put the longest wire on all of them, and thrown in a couple of cable ties. Seems very sensible.

But, this means the replacements for our cars has changed, the sensors for the V8 Vantage 2005+ are now OZA816-EE1 for the front, and OZA836-EE13 for the rear.

I've just paid £57 for a sensor, there are cheaper ones, but when you can get OEM-level sensors from the company that makes the originals for Aston Martin, this doesn't feel like a place to save a few pounds.
 

Last edited by MichaelD; Oct 11, 2021 at 05:26 AM.
Old Oct 12, 2021 | 08:59 AM
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I ordered some of the NGK ones that are supposed to be compatible to replace both upstream sensors. They were the ones mentioned above, with the long, white cables. Installed them, reset the computer, ran the car. As soon as I started it up I knew something was wrong. It was running so rich the entire garage stank of fuel. I thought maybe the computer needed to adapt to the new sensors, so I drove it for a couple days. Idle was loping, the engine stumbled badly at low rpm, stalled twice even with 1/4 throttle input, noticable loss of power across the entire rev range, HORRIBLE fuel consumption. Parked the car, ordered the OEM sensors from scuderia, installed them, and all those issues went away. It felt like I got back 100 horsepower I didn't know was missing, and the car's running great 1300 miles later.

So be wary of "compatible" parts.
 

Last edited by Kalepsis; Oct 12, 2021 at 09:02 AM.
Old Oct 12, 2021 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalepsis
I ordered some of the NGK ones that are supposed to be compatible to replace both upstream sensors. They were the ones mentioned above, with the long, white cables. Installed them, reset the computer, ran the car. As soon as I started it up I knew something was wrong. It was running so rich the entire garage stank of fuel. I thought maybe the computer needed to adapt to the new sensors, so I drove it for a couple days. Idle was loping, the engine stumbled badly at low rpm, stalled twice even with 1/4 throttle input, noticable loss of power across the entire rev range, HORRIBLE fuel consumption. Parked the car, ordered the OEM sensors from scuderia, installed them, and all those issues went away. It felt like I got back 100 horsepower I didn't know was missing, and the car's running great 1300 miles later.

So be wary of "compatible" parts.
Oh ****, I've just fitted one of these replacement sensors, done a short test run, and am leaving tomorrow morning on a 800 mile trip round Scotland. Hope I won't be doing the trip with only one bank of cylinders working right
 
Old Oct 13, 2021 | 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MichaelD
Oh ****, I've just fitted one of these replacement sensors, done a short test run, and am leaving tomorrow morning on a 800 mile trip round Scotland. Hope I won't be doing the trip with only one bank of cylinders working right
I hope the ones you got work better than mine did. Keep an eye on your fuel usage and see if it feels sluggish when starting from a stop. If they're as bad as mine were, you'll smell gasoline if you stand behind the car while it's idling. Mine was running very, very rich.

It's possible I just got a bad pair of sensors and yours will be fine.
 
Old Oct 13, 2021 | 07:22 AM
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Have you done a battery disconnect to clear past fueling tables? If you had bad sensors or a fault before, replacement of the sensor will over time correct itself. But a reset will learn quicker. If your pre 2011, misfire corrections need to be relearned.
 
Old Oct 13, 2021 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by J doubleU
Have you done a battery disconnect to clear past fueling tables? If you had bad sensors or a fault before, replacement of the sensor will over time correct itself. But a reset will learn quicker. If your pre 2011, misfire corrections need to be relearned.
Yeah, I had my local shop wipe it immediately after putting them in.
 
Old Oct 21, 2021 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Kalepsis
I hope the ones you got work better than mine did. Keep an eye on your fuel usage and see if it feels sluggish when starting from a stop. If they're as bad as mine were, you'll smell gasoline if you stand behind the car while it's idling. Mine was running very, very rich.

It's possible I just got a bad pair of sensors and yours will be fine.
Thanks, I'm just back online after a very enjoyable 1,000+ miles round the Scottish highlands. After reading this post I was worried on the first day, but after 350 miles, mainly at 75mph with an average of 28mpg, I felt pretty confident that the new sensor was working fine, and it continued to behave as I'd hoped throughout the trip.

So, don't know what went wrong with yours, but pleased to hear you found a resolution, even though it was an expensive remedy.
 
Old Oct 21, 2021 | 10:06 AM
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a sort of non-event update:

the ebay o2 sensors were delivered, but before they got to me i decided to punt and head to the dealership in an attempt to fix my can't-get-my-car-smogged-because-the-secondary-air-monitor-won't-trigger situation. they said all they did was a "drive-cycle" and they got it to trigger (not that i hadn't driven it several hundred miles and every which way but loose and it didn't trigger) anyway, cost about $350. so i assume it wasn't the o2 sensors after all.

the point is that i've got them and they look identical to the ones on the car, and although that, in and of itself, is not proof that they would work, my research has shown that the voltage and amperage they put out is the same across the board for these things. pretty much an industry standard sort of situation... which i do not find surprising. and i won't hesitate to drop them in if the car gives me any grief. and that's a threat.
 


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