Yesterday I was moving my cars around and in the process I put my Ford Escape key in my V8V ignition. The key went in easily but obviously would not turn. when I realized what I did I tried to remove it. It won't come out. No amount of wiggling or pulling will free it. The V8V key is the cylindrical type and the Ford key is flat with the teeth cut in the top and bottom faces (not an older saw tooth type.) I think the problem is that the lock tumblers have dropped into the ford key "teeth" and won't retract. It looks like I'll have to replace the V8V lock cylinder. To do that I have to remove the steering column shrouds. BUT to do that I need to rotate the steering wheel to expose the shroud screws. Of course the steering wheel is locked. If i remove the steering wheel, the shroud screws will be exposed and can be removed. BUT to remove the steering wheel, the airbag module needs to be removed, To remove it you need to rotate the wheel to expose the screws.

Does anyone have any ideas?? I'd be home free if I could release the electronic steering wheel lock. Can the dealers computer system unlock it?

Steve

 

Oh boy, how hard did you try pulling? Tibbie lock barrel has disc's that rotate so no tumblers or drops are going on. Pre 09 is a mechanical lock. Electrical steering lock is ECU 2009 onwards.

 

I've pulled on the key really hard. My next level up is vice grips and a hammer. I am confident that I'll damage the lock barrel using enough force to remove the key so any way you look at it I need to replace the lock Barrel and that will mean new keys and undoubtedly programming work at the dealer.
Steve

 

You won't know until you get it out. If it is damaged 7/8" hole saw works well just have to be patient and keep checking the depth of the center bit. Then you can turn it to release the steering lock.

 

J doubleU: I'm not sure I understand what you are proposing. I have a 3/4" and 1" hole saw and I can get a 7/8". The hole saws I have have different size center drills. What size should should the center drill be? Also, what work is the center drill doing and what work is the hole saw itself doing? Is the objective to be able to remove the lock barrel internal parts (disks)?
Steve

 

Standard bit I believe is 1/4" and yes you are just cutting the core to remove the disc's. Try the 3/4" it may work 7/8" is the largest I would go.

 

I know NOTHING about this, but I'd call a locksmith out to take a look before doing anything drastic like drilling. They're unlikely to have specialist knowledge about Astons and their locks, but I'm confident they'll know much more than I do!

 

If you think it is just a friction issue and not hung up tightly on the discs you could try spraying it down with an upside down can of keyboard cleaner (canned air) and freeze the key, it may shrink the metal sufficiently. Alternatively, you're deep freezing that lock and it will be very brittle if you can get it into the hole.I'd also suggest wearing Mechanix gloves or similar if you try this. I would also vote for a locksmiths eye first...

 

Thanks for the replies. zuman: I do have a locksmith coming out. He says that he can probably get the key out but says that it is likely that the lock will be damaged and I still might not be able to release the steering wheel lock.

Marmot: It is not a friction issue, the key moves in and out about 1/4" and you can definitely feel it hang up on something inside the cylinder.

J doubleU: I presume that the idea here is that the 1/4" center drill bit will center the hole saw by piloting in the center hole in the disk stack and the hole saw will cut a hole through the outer cap to allow removal of the "guts". When the cylinder is gutted, how do you turn it to release the steering wheel lock??

Steve

 

The key is most likely to be hanging up on the key flap. If you try a very thin 2-3 mm strip of metal inserted at the 9:00 position it may free up to exit the key.

If it does require drilling a simple screwdriver will complete the turning.
Seen it in a movie.

 

Definitely call a lock smith. Those dudes can work wonders and even if they can't help you..They may have an idea or 2 to pass along. I would do this LONG before taking a drill to the car in any way.

That being said...That is DEFINITELY one of the dumber things I've ever heard anyone do. Sorry...lol

 

So, I called 6 lock smiths. 2 said I was out of their service area (in spite of their web site indicating the contrary). Three of the four either didn't answer their phone and didn't respond to the multiple messages I left. The 4th answered my first call and never returned subsequent calls to set up a visit. Ultimately I threw my hat in the dirt and took matters into my own hands. I took a large nylon wire tie and made a loop through the key ring hole in the key. I used the loop to give a huge yank on the key and the Ford key popped out. The moment of truth came when I put the Aston Martin key in the lock and turned it. The dash lights and displays came on, the steering wheel unlocked and she started right up. Woo Hoo,

speedracer800: yup it was dumb.... I had several keys in my hand at the time and I stuck the wrong one in the lock because I was in a hurry. I got lucky. This could have been VERY expensive,

Thanks to everyone for throwing out some ideas. that's the true value of forums like this.
Steve

 

Happy result…glad it worked out…