This post serves as a guide for those wanting to create their own remote filter kit. I was hoping to offer complete kits to members, but I have been reprimanded for doing so since I am not a sponsor. These kits are not for sale.

You'll need a low profile 22x1.5 take-off plate. I got mine from a Trans-Dapt 1127 Oil Filter Relocation Kit. This will screw onto the threads where you would normally screw on the filter. I had to cut about a 1/4" of thread off to prevent bottoming, but there is still plenty of thread to revert back to stock if needed.
-Out of the side hole, you'll screw a 1/2" NPT to AN10 45 degree fitting. This 45 degree fitting must go in first! (Use Teflon tape on the NTP side)
-Out of the middle hole (has the blue fitting in the picture), you'll screw a 1/2" NPT to AN10 straight fitting. (Use Teflon tape on the NTP side)
-From that straight fitting, you'll then add an AN10 45 degree male to female fitting.
**Note: the orientation of the take-off plate may vary, so you may need to adjust how the fittings are attached. The NPT to AN10 45 fitting should always go in the hole lower to the ground and the straight fitting should always go on the higher one and have the AN10 male to female 45 attached to it.

You now need two AN10 female to hose fittings. I used crimp fittings but you can use normal hose fitting.

You'll need about two feet of hose for each line, but be sure to measure. Add the AN10 to hose fitting on one end of each and then secure them to the take-off plate fittings. It's pretty tight in there. I made a little 4" wrench sized for an AN10 and it worked like a charm.

You'll need to mount a Hayden 2106 Oil Filter Mount to the frame, just in front of the sway bar. There are two unused threaded holes there (I think M10x1.25), which you can't directly attach the oil filter mount to, but you can create a mount that bolts on here and drops down below the frame so you can mount the oil filter mount.

Lastly, screw in some barb fittings (Use Teflon tape on the NTP side), cut the hoses to an appropriate length and clamp the hoses on the correct barbs (I had to cross my hoses) and zip tie the hoses to secure them. Make sure you get your inlets and outlets correct.

Sorry, this is a bit complex. As a DIY, it's not for everyone, but this is the extent to which I'm allowed to help.

 

dope project! Def makes oil changing much easier. Minimal pressure loss I presume? That's like maybe 4 ft of hose 1/2" hose?

 

I still have to test pressure which I should be able to do tomorrow. I'm at the tail end of a major rebuild so there's still some uncertainties with the car, but I should be able to at least get the system pressurized. And ya, ~4' of 1/2".

 

I tested oil pressure today. I could only do it on a cold engine, but it was up at 110 psi. The manual says at least 100 when cold, so looks like there's no issue.

 

Great job on a great idea.