Good evening,
I apologize in advance for the basic question, but which of these fuses would be "switched" fuses in the cabin fuse box?
I installed a backup camera and a Naviks unit a couple weeks ago, and my battery has since drained (I was able to recharge it, thankfully), so I suspect I used fuses that were "hot" all the time.
Which 2 fuses would be the best choices then?
Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Sorry if this sounds curt. Your camera will draw insignificant current. Just tap into any fuse that's hot only when the ignition is on. Get a meter, pull the fuse and check the hot side for power, ignition on and ignition off.

 

Thanks for the answer, I'll try this out.
On another note, if I need, let's say, 5A to feed the camera, can I tap into a 10 or 25A fuse? Or it has to be a 5A fuse?

 

[QUOTE=On another note, if I need, let's say, 5A to feed the camera, can I tap into a 10 or 25A fuse? Or it has to be a 5A fuse?[/QUOTE]

Buy a fuse tap (of the correct type - ATM or Mini ATM) at your local auto store and then use whatever fuse is necessary to protect your camera circuit.

 

I ended up taping power on F7 and F22. Will monitor potential leak over a couple days before I call it a win.
Thanks for the help!

 

Did that work? I’m trying to hardwire a radar detector and can’t figure out which fuse to tap into for power when vehicle is on.

 

It did, yes, No more battery drainage since I tapped into these 2 fuses.