Fuse is #22 on a 2011 V12 and V8 for the exhaust vacuum pump. People that don't know disconnect the vacuum lines instead of the fuse. Or it could have a failed vacuum pump. I would sort out if the valves are working first, secondary bypass for the $ vs sound and easy installation would be second.

 

My vacuum pump was buzzing when ignition was on (but not the engine) so I assumed it had failed and ended up pulling fuse 22. And later on, I added a Larini decat system. Love the sound of the V12 now!
And no more buzzing vacuum pump

 

Most of the decat pipes are same( it's just a straight pipe replacing secondary cats) unless it's x-pipe design, what does your larini decats look/sound like?

 

​​​​​​fun to be in driver seat, but no fun doing anything under hood, no room! Let the fun begin. Major service is in the order....

 

Had a chance to check exhaust valves today, I have checked fuse & plumbing & vacuum hose/pump & solenoid everything is connected as it should be, but valves are always open, connected my vacuum pump to vacuum source no vacuum to valves when car is cold or warmed up, checked valves with vacuum pump , they open & hold vacuum . Am I missing something? Starting to think, maybe it has a tune to keep valves open all the time?

 

what was the major service it needed? Or just catching up on the 5 to 10 year interval stuff?

Was this the car recently for sale in AZ? You beat me to it- seemed like listing was only up for a couple days great find!

 

Just doing all the fluids, filters, belt, tensioner, door/hood/trunk struts. want to start with fresh. Next -ordered Velocity AP X-pipe & 11MM H&R spacers. I think that would be it..... And paint correction & ceramic coating.
Yes, I did purchased from AZ.

 

You sure it's an OEM exhaust?

 

Yes, all stock OEM, no mods at all.

 

Are you basing the valves open all the time on just it idling or hear no difference driving? No difference in sound at 2K driving vs. 5K?

 

Valves are open all the time at idle, cold or warm start or idling. scanned for codes, none found, so I'm assuming its programmed to stay open all the time..

 

Have you checked the line with the car running to see if it's actually drawing vacuum? Solenoid could have failed, line could have a hole etc.

 

I checked while car running, I get vacuum from the pump and to tank, (not leaking there) but no vacuum to valves on both sides. I was thinking about solenoid, but wouldn't it have created trouble code for that?
I'll check that next, I don't mind valves staying open all the time, but just wanted find out why..

 

They're supposed to be open at idle, no? Driving is when you notice if the valves are working or not.

 

Not sure about that, I thought it suppose to be open when engine is cold and close after few minutes when it goes to closed loop at idle.... in my case I had the car running for 10+ min but valves are still open.