Good morning, I need to get my 2010 Rapide smogged but the "catalyst monitor" still shows incomplete (I made sure I have more than 1/4 of fuel in the tank).
I found on the forum the drive cycle for a V8V but I am not sure it applies to the Rapide.
Does anybody happen to have the corresponding drive cycle document for Rapide?
Is it recommended to do the drive cycle in the morning with lower temps, or rather with higher temps?
Thanks in advance for the help!

 

For the most part all manufacturers are simular drive cycles to set them. I recommend 1/2 tank of fuel, start car cold and let idle for about 10 min. Then have a route of about 5-8 miles where you can drive steady in the 50-60 mph range. Cruise control if you can. 55mph.

 

^^^
Agree with this.

When I lived in PHX, I replaced an O2 sensor on my wife's F-Pace, deleted the code, all was well, then took it in to get emissions tested. It failed BC the drive cycles had not completed yet from the repair. The tester hand me a one sheet page with "generic" drive cycle instructions on it (they do same with anyone failing the test BC of DCs).

The EMS needs to go through a number of "cycles" at different speeds, different ECTs, etc. with no failures showing before it deems all systems a go.... What a racket we've spun ourselves into in this country! At least some places. So glad I no longer live in a state/city requiring emissions tests on a regular basis.

Example of generic DCs

Here's a more detailed breakdown of a typical generic drive cycle:

1. Cold Start and Warm-up:

• Ensure the engine is cold (coolant temperature below 122°F and within 11°F of ambient air temperature).

• Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes to reach operating temperature.

2. Driving at Various Speeds:

• Accelerate to 30-60 mph under moderate acceleration.

• Hold the speed for a specified duration (e.g., 2-5 minutes).
• Deaccelerate without braking (coasting) to a lower speed (e.g., 20 mph).
• Repeat the acceleration and deceleration process, adjusting speeds and durations as needed.

3. Idle Periods:

• Stop the vehicle and allow it to idle for a specified period (e.g., 40-60 seconds).
• Repeat idle periods throughout the cycle.

4. Engine Cool Down and Shutoff:

• After completing the driving portion, allow the engine to cool down to below 100°F.
• Turn off the ignition.

5. Re-engagement and Repeat (if needed):

• Repeat the drive cycle steps (1-4) one or more times, depending on the vehicle's requirements.

• Some vehicles require a "cool down" period between drive cycles.

TRY THIS on a busy street or highway in just about any city!

 

Just take some time and it should work. Everyone seems to rush a drive cycle and claims they followed instructions and it's still not working.

 

^^^

Agree with this too. Often takes more than one try.

One of the hardest I/Ms to complete is EVAP emissions. Some states even waiver one I/M which is often the EVAP.

 

Yes indeed. You can pass smog in CA even with the EVAP not being ready.

 

I've attached the V12 Catalyst Efficiency monitor that occurs for your car in a drive cycle. If you can match the entry conditions in the table, then it will check twice with every drive cycle.

 

Thank you, now I understand the logic behind the test.

 

Thank you, I'll give it a try later this week!

 

Doesn't the A/C need to be off too?

 

Quick update: followed the advice from this thread, took the car for a couple of spins, and the monitor cleared
And most importantly, I took my time
Thanks again for all the help!

 

Hello, is this the misfire procedure or something different.
and if it's the misfire procedure it's about accelerating and let it drop to a lower speed. Who has the exact procedure, I read here one talk about a steady drive other of different speed

 

I tried with a full tank of gas driving on the hwy for 80 miles did not go through the drive cycle.

 

How have you done it? Did you turn ac on or apply the break. Have you seen Aston 1936 getting the code gone after just one trial going to 70 down to 20.....if I need to do it I won't call you...lol I m joking trying to find out why it didn't work or maybe it did....

 

Yes, I did turn on AC (it's always on) and applied the brake. Mechanic thinks it's the ECM (for the check engine light I cannot get rid of), and we are looking to get mine rebuilt vs. testing with a new one.