2003 Porsche 911 Turbo 6 Speed
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 78
From: Brooklyn NY
Rep Power: 18
2003 Porsche 911 Turbo 6 Speed
Year: 2003
Make: Porsche
Model: 911
Price: $36000
Mileage: 100000
Color: Arctic Silver
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): NY
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: 4WD & AWD
2003 Porsche 911 Turbo
6 speed
100k mi
WP0AB29993S685636
X1 - Arctic Silver
EX - Metropol Blue Full Leather
M6F - Metropol BlueFloor Mats
P78 - Sport Seats
342 - Heated Sport Seats
XSA - Painted Sport Seat Backs
XSC - Porsche Crest Headrest
XME - Painted Center Console
Z84 - Seats Deviated Stitching
Z88 - Dash Deviated Stitch
Y06 - Aluminum Shifter Ebrake
Full Bose sound w rear sub
Additional:
KW V3 Suspension
Elephant Racing Toe Links
Tarett Drop Links
GT3 Short Shifter
BBI Billet Slave Conversion
Fabspeed Maxflo Sport Exhaust w/ 200 CEL Converters & X50 Style TIps
K40 Radar and Laser Detector
Recent Maintenance:
New Engine mounts
Full Pads and Rotors
New Bosch Battery
Brake Fluid Flush Super Blue 1 year
Oil change up to date every 5k Miles
The bad things about the car:
Rear wing is disabled.
Driver seat bolster is worn.
Coolant lines has not been pinned.
Front windshield has a crack.
I'm the 6th owner.
The car will come with the stock wheels. The ADV1 wheels are being sold separately.
The stock exhaust and a brand new set of OEM Metropol Blue Porsche floor mats will also be included with the sale.
Clean Car Fax. No Accidents. No Track History. Clean well optioned and maintained 996tt.
I copied the old for sale ad from the previous seller so please add a year to time that the recent maintenance was completed. I purchased the car March of 2018 from another member on the forum. I've only put about 200 miles on the car since i've owned it. Only thing I replaced was the Fabspeed exhaust and the wheels, but the car will be sold with the stock wheels. I’m willing to have a PPI done at the buyers expense. I have the Carfax available and could email it to anyone that's interested. I’m selling the car because i'd like to buy a Supra. Really miss having a JZ powered vehicle. I’ve been doing some research trying to figure out a fair asking price. I figured $36,000 seems reasonable. Please message me if you’re interested or if you have any questions. Thanks.
Last edited by shogun86; Jan 29, 2020 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Car is sold.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 78
From: Brooklyn NY
Rep Power: 18
The car currently have ADV wheels and a Fabspeed exhaust, but i'll be reinstalling the stock twist wheels. Thanks.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 78
From: Brooklyn NY
Rep Power: 18
Trending Topics
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
From: Newbury Park, CA
Rep Power: 0
I'll take a stab at this, but not an expert. With the Mezger motors in the 996 cars, and I believe the 997, (turbos & GT3's/RS, not base cars) there was an epoxy/sealant that was used to join the coolant line fitting to the couplings throughout the engine, sorta like copper plumbing in your house where you sweat the joints with solder utilizing 1.21 jigawatts of flux. There are something like 7 joints that could "potentially" become separated while you're driving under extreme conditions and while it is a big deal for driving around the streets, it's a BIGGER deal if you track your car. Reason being, if one of those lines goes, the person behind you on the racetrack will potentially loose grip with all the coolant you're dumping. Separate from the track, if you're not paying attention, you could overheat your engine which is obviously not good.
The solution is to "pin" the lines which basically means you put a screw through the male and female part of the coupling to keep it from disconnecting and you can do this while the engine is in the car. The other approach is to weld the male and female parts together, but that requires pulling the engine out and is more expensive. There are arguments as to which is better, but that gives you a high level summary pinning the coolant line.
The solution is to "pin" the lines which basically means you put a screw through the male and female part of the coupling to keep it from disconnecting and you can do this while the engine is in the car. The other approach is to weld the male and female parts together, but that requires pulling the engine out and is more expensive. There are arguments as to which is better, but that gives you a high level summary pinning the coolant line.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 10
From: Salt Lake City
Rep Power: 0
I'll take a stab at this, but not an expert. With the Mezger motors in the 996 cars, and I believe the 997, (turbos & GT3's/RS, not base cars) there was an epoxy/sealant that was used to join the coolant line fitting to the couplings throughout the engine, sorta like copper plumbing in your house where you sweat the joints with solder utilizing 1.21 jigawatts of flux. There are something like 7 joints that could "potentially" become separated while you're driving under extreme conditions and while it is a big deal for driving around the streets, it's a BIGGER deal if you track your car. Reason being, if one of those lines goes, the person behind you on the racetrack will potentially loose grip with all the coolant you're dumping. Separate from the track, if you're not paying attention, you could overheat your engine which is obviously not good.
The solution is to "pin" the lines which basically means you put a screw through the male and female part of the coupling to keep it from disconnecting and you can do this while the engine is in the car. The other approach is to weld the male and female parts together, but that requires pulling the engine out and is more expensive. There are arguments as to which is better, but that gives you a high level summary pinning the coolant line.
The solution is to "pin" the lines which basically means you put a screw through the male and female part of the coupling to keep it from disconnecting and you can do this while the engine is in the car. The other approach is to weld the male and female parts together, but that requires pulling the engine out and is more expensive. There are arguments as to which is better, but that gives you a high level summary pinning the coolant line.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 11
From: Newbury Park, CA
Rep Power: 0
Thanks for clarifying and not sure if it’s the same for the turbo, but I pinned/screwed my 996 GT3 with the engine in and a 90° drill bit extender thing-gee and there is a how to on either rennlist or Pelican, can’t remember.
That said, It’s been a couple years since I did it so I may have only done the High probability failure lines that you get access to from the top, but can be done rather easily. (3 hours? Which means 6😜
There are arguments that this method will drop shavings into the coolant system but other people believe that as it is pressurized, it won’t allow the metal shavings to get into the system.
As I bought my high mileage (60k miles) 996 GT3 on the cheap for $33k (not a typo), I went with the low cost redneck approach. Again, this was several years ago.
As mentioned, the correct way to do it would be to pull the engine out, but if you’re not tracking the car, I’m not sure I would worry about it.
That said, It’s been a couple years since I did it so I may have only done the High probability failure lines that you get access to from the top, but can be done rather easily. (3 hours? Which means 6😜
There are arguments that this method will drop shavings into the coolant system but other people believe that as it is pressurized, it won’t allow the metal shavings to get into the system.
As I bought my high mileage (60k miles) 996 GT3 on the cheap for $33k (not a typo), I went with the low cost redneck approach. Again, this was several years ago.
As mentioned, the correct way to do it would be to pull the engine out, but if you’re not tracking the car, I’m not sure I would worry about it.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 106
From: NJ
Rep Power: 14
Except some of the carpet looks like blue carpet.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1
From: Chicago
Rep Power: 0
I am interested in your 996 M-T for sale. I am not a dealer or broker. Please call or email me at 574-258-4500 (Chicago area) or jimschrager@gmail.com. You can also message me in 6SpeedOnline as "sailing professor." Thanks, Jim S.