Are you still running stock n75 or a boost controller? , are your brake lights working?

 

thanks i will try to look at the connector. all of this started happening after my MAF went bad. i tested it with Durmatric - there was no reading from teh MAF. I replaced the MAF - it was reading fine. Next day code came back with ABS/PSM lights on first start. i thought maybe i got a defective MAF - so I exchanged the MAF at the distirbutor and put another brand new MAF in. at this point any lead is worth chasing because i am getting tired of it. i have read about a similar problem where a guy had a MAF fail and when it failed it ruined something in the ECU. so I got a new ECU as well, it currentyl at EPL getting my tune installed onto it and vin coded for my car.

yes stock N75 that has been repalced as well just in case, all vac lines are good to it.

brake lights work just fine.

 

should have included ck'ing the conn at the maf as well

 

I had psm/abs driving me mad, it was the brake light switch....

 

I'm curious how was this resolved? thx

 

my car no longer has a MAF so its not an issue.

 

Who cast a spell on your car for MAF less?

 

This is exactly my same situation. I recently bought the car. The old owner had put a new MAF in about 2 months prior. Car drives fine 99% of the time. But i've had the ABS/PSM error twice now.


And on occasion in higher gear at WOT it feels like it falls flat on it's face, get off the gas and back on it and all seems to be fine.

The error has popped up when in either 3rd or 4th at WOT.


Pulled code today with my cheap little scanner and got P0103

 

Disconnect the Maf and see if it does it.
If not then it's Maf related.
Have your tune checked out to if you have one in there.

 

Would car be safe to drive around with MAF disconnected?


Additoinally, owner is 99.9% confident there is no tune on it. But, I do plan on doing one shortly, so I guess i'll find out then!


does car take awhile to adjust / learn to a new MAF by any chance?

 

If it's .7 bar its stock.

Yes you can do the test it don't make it habbit.
Also doing a pressure test is a good idea not to mention getting a Durametric cable and logging it.
I offer free diagnostics and I supply a boost leak tester with all my tuning. Those who been there before he value in that. Last client got taken for $2100 in Colorado due to a shop telling him stories he needs to drop a motor to find a vacuum leak, and a tuner who didn't step up and help him. Don't make that mistake.
Markski

Check this out
https://markskituning.com/pressure-test-101-how-to-find-boost-leaks/

 

Mucho Gracias!!!

 

Need to order a durametric


Marski. I generally see .8. With one offs to .9-1.0

 

Well its worker .7 or 1 bar. No in between lol. Unless it's a x50.

 

If it's stock, you're overboosting and you have a wastegate issue, possibly sticking, or a cracked hose that sends pressure to your wastegates and not allowing them to fully open, or a bad N75 valve. Try to manually exercise your wastegates by moving the connecting rods. And do a boost leak test. The boost leak test should also open your wastegates when you get up to ~0.7bar (10psi). Make sure your 2 wastegates are opening at the same pressure.