Usually shops are parts changers and do a hack job. I Have a feeling you will go thru a lot time and money before you find the issue if any.
Is the car on stock tune ?
You need logs.

Rpm
Engine load
Ignition angle
Maf kg/hr
Oxygen sensing lambda value bank 1 and bank2.
Setpoint lambda bank1 and 2
Boost pressure of sensor
Boost pressure of p/d factor

 

man if thats not the pot calling the kettle black

 

I had all kinds of issues when I bought my car last fall, including uncontrollable boost and I, as well, started regretting buying my car. While it hibernated for winter, I read absolutely everything I could find about these cars and turbos in general. It didn't take too long after I got the car out of storage and started looking everything over, pressure testing, and Durametric logging that I got everything sorted out. Now, I love the car and don't regret buying it at all.
Download the entire parts diagram and study it while comparing it to your car. Some diagrams are a little hard to follow but comparing it to the car helps determine where a hose on one page stops and where it begins on a separate page. Do the pressure test. Once everything is sealed and hooked up properly, the Durametric logs will be extremely helpful in pinpointing any other problems.

And listen to Markski about boost leaks.
I would also like to add that I could not have diagnosed a physically damaged ECU without him sending me(a stranger in a different country) his spare ECU (free of charge) to help trouble shoot mine. He spent hours emailing and on the phone with me( a non client). His only stipulation was that I consider using his tune and parts in the future.
Great customer service.

 

I'm just saying, when people put their hands in the cars they most likely screw things up. I get the calls and emails. As a matter of fact 3 today just about similar issues. It's always when someone " World's on the car " that it comes back like this and that. And I'm not pointing fingers at any shop. Bottom line is : you drop off your car for dvs to be swapped, car comes back with issues. That's just one example.
Another client dropped the car off for collant lines and car now had a endless misfire. On and on. Do it yourself or make sure you take it to someone that will do it right. Be it a oil change or or a motor job.
Markski

 

Work was done at Salerno Motorsports in Sac, i've heard good things, but obviously don't have first hand experience.



Curious, is the pressure increase when letting off the throttle normal? (this is my first turbo car)




Markski, I do need logs, hence why the durametric is on it's way (now just need to figure out how to use it). I also need a boost leak test....did my package ship this week?

 

Yes that is normal.

 

It doesn't matter who did it. Don't even repeat it. But someone dos install the n75 upside down. A good wrencher knows the car inside out.
Your getting a spike when you let off
I think your over reacting.
Do logs. Start with rhat.
Check for error codes too.



QUOTE=HotRodGuy;4439285]Work was done at Salerno Motorsports in Sac, i've heard good things, but obviously don't have first hand experience.



Curious, is the pressure increase when letting off the throttle normal? (this is my first turbo car)




Markski, I do need logs, hence why the durametric is on it's way (now just need to figure out how to use it). I also need a boost leak test....did my package ship this week? [/QUOTE]

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html

 

Pressure spike is just the DV being a little slow to react and pressure hitting the sensor is all. Most folks see it, nothing to sweat. I think the DV on our car might even have a solenoid that activates them? My car has no N75 solenoid on it and just runs W/G boost and I don't think I see the spike but I'll admit I don't stare at the gauge at those speeds lol.

The more concerning thing to me is the car laying down. That could be ignition retard, could be coils, could even be the throttle pulling back maybe. The Durametric will be a big help and Marski can guide you. There's a sticky in the forum up top that will help you figure out logging. Hang in there, I doubt this is anything super serious.

 

you mean like sending your car to someone to have a head gasket replaced and the blowout repaired only to open the motor and find broken parts bolted in and the blowout still there?

 

I plan on calling the shop that worked on the car tomorrow. They didn't do this work to long ago, and the owner put virtually no miles on it after done as he had a brand new GT3 in the garage. But I have a feeling this issue started after they did this work. I've read nothing but good things about them, so we'll see what they stand by.

I obviously will run some logs on my side when my durametric comes.

 

Like blkmgk mentioned, misfires could cause that flat feeling. If you don't have records of plugs and coils being changed, replace them. They are maintenance items anyways.
Also log your throttle position with your Durametric when doing a wot pull. If your ecu is sensing a problem with your boost, it will cut your throttle to ~30%. That could be the flat feeling as well.

 

was hoping you guys could help me make sense of these data runs

I did one good 3rd gear pull to redline


I also did a few 6th gear WOT (the first one ABS PSM came on and surprised me and I let off). Second two are a little longer in it.

 

it looks like there is a boost spike around 3K RPM, or am I reading wrong?

I got markski's boost leak kit yesterday, haven't had a chance to run through it.


Here are also the codes the car is currently throwing:


P1601
Porsche fault code 660 - CAN timeout - instrument cluster
P1255
Porsche fault code 230 - exceeds limit value
P0103
Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor



ABS
5525
Incorrect data transfer with DME master control unit

 

Maf values are low for .7 bar. Also afrs are lean probably due to that. I'm guessing still tune ?
Clean the Maf. Then do a pressure test