Guys, I have a 2004 continental gt with 40k miles that wont stay running. Im getting code p0230 fuel pump relay. I replaced both relays with brand new ones but still having the same issues. Before installing the new relays I replaced the batteries first thinking that was the problem because the dealership told me that was my problem, but to no surprise it still stalls out. If I clear out the code I can get the car to run for a few seconds then It stalls out. Thanks ahead for any & all help.

 

have you bypassed relays to make sure pumps run ?

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Whats the procedure on bypassing the relays ?

 

By supplying a separate power feed direct to fuel pumps whilst trying to start the car.

 

if you take the two micro relays out in the trunk ,use a jump wire and go from one of the larger terminals to the other.don't jump the smaller terminals.you should here a buzz from the trunk carpet area.

 

By any chance would you have a pics of the relays? Last time the car was at the dealership all my manuals came up missing & they wouldnt replace them. I want to make sure that Im bypassing the correct relays. I believe that there is 2 relays(404) that sit next to each other. I can feel the one clicking when cycling key on but I dont feel the other one clicking. The car ran fine until I had it shipped to my new home & thats when I started having problems with the car throwing a ton of codes but it didnt seem to effect the drivability until one day it just stalled out while I was driving it down the road. I can get the car to fire up after clearing out the codes for about 20 seconds or so & then it stalls out again. Do you have a diagram of the relay & fuse boxes layout & for all the ground locations? Thanks again to everyone for all the help.

 

unfortunately my brother is borrowing my computer with the wiring diags on,so i will describe as best i can. in the trunk on the left hand side remove battery panel and you will see fuses and some relays,you may well be right that it is 404 but there are two smaller black relays together,remove them and you will see 3 smaller terminals and 3 big ones of which one is at 90 degrees,bridge the bigger terminals with a jump lead or paper clip...pumps should run .

 

you have got gas in it right !

 

LOL, yes gas is full. The relays that I have pulled are a 5 pin relay. 3 small & 2 large. Do I need to jump both large ones separately(2 jumper wires, 1 for each relay) or do I use 1 jumper wire and jump from the out side large terminal to the 2nd relays outside large terminal so that they are as one? There is 2 relays that run the pumps correct?

 

yes,one wire for each relay,should here some sort of buzz and you could maybe start car and see what happens.

 

Thanks a ton. Thats what I thought. If you get a chance could you please post a pic of the fuse/relay panels & descriptions whenever you get a minute & locations of all the grounds. Thank You again for all your help & Ill keep you updated.

 

in the trunk,in left hand fusebox check the fuse F33. it is a 5 amp fuse and is 4th one up in long column.also just below is two 20amp fuses,check them as well because they are in the fuel pump circuit as well. in the engine compartment on the right hand side bulkhead is the Ebox fuse board,there is a 10 amp fuse in there that may be your issue. hope this info helps.

 

here is the wiring diagram

 

Sorry for the delay guys but I got an update for you. Code po230 continues to pull up whenever it acts up. Im undecided on if I have a bad pump or not. One day the car will run fine & then the next it wont even stay running. This is what I found after tearing into it, Drivers side pump turns on first when ignition is turned on then after a few seconds the passanger pump turns on and that is when the car decides to die(when it decides to act up). I bypassed the relay that controlls the pass. pump & the pump stays on along with the car, zero issues. I was thinking that it may be a bad passenger side fuel pump but it is quiet with zreo noise & that is why I decided to bypass the relay to see if the pump would actually cut out but it doesnt. I was thinking about totally bypassing the computer from controlling the pumps & rewire them with my own relay & to ignition on. Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks

 

in the engine compartment where the Ebox is,can you put your hand down by the heater box and feel for moisture,we have had occurrences where the drains don't work and water stays in that well and corrodes the soldered joints. also you may want to try an overlay from the fuse in wiring diagram to the relay (fuse in ebox that is),if it runs fine with the overlay then you probably have moisture in the wiring.