I have had some thorny issues (which you can read about on the forum) that forced me to get familiar with the VAS 5054A. Also, a couple of local Bentley owners and I have formed a virtual group wherein we help one another by using my system. Also, my independent garage borrows my system to solve complex issues. Since I am retired, I make a point of hanging around while they use my system to diagnose issues.

The first thing you will learn is to leave a battery charger on your car when you plug in the VAS 5054A. If the batteries get low, you get a lot of "interesting" false-positive error detections that can quickly make you more than a little bit crazy.

 

Its a shame there isn't a website you can go to and connect the vas to it via USB that replicates the ECU so you can set virtual faults and trace them


I'm going to search your posts and read about the issues you have had, I might learn something useful
Thanks,
Frank

 

I got mine from here:
http://www.ruggedcomputing.co.uk/pro...een_bluetooth/

 

Interesting you went with rugged computing. That's the same place I got my system. One thing I quickly learned is not to use the Bluetooth connection. While it is convenient, it is not reliable and will frustrate you no end if you lose connectivity in the middle of a deep diagnosis. I use hard-wired USB every time but my computer is older than your tablet.

 

That's not the computer I got, I think they have upgraded them since I got mine back in 2013. my one is a 2008 ex US Army computer . Its shower proof and drop resistant with a tough protective shell and touch screen. The battery isn't really reliable as every time I switch the darn thing on its flat and as you say I always use the power lead either to the car 12v or from my workshop. I haven't used the Bluetooth device and after your information I wont even bother.

 

I got a headache just reading this thread.

Do you think they are making cars complicated on purpose these days just to hold the mechanically timid hostage?

 

If its a circuit fault I would inspect the connector and any visible harness for chafing or shorts. If its a control fault look at the supplied vacuum lines you may have to smoke them. I would scan it with a VAS or equivalent to get the OEM fault description just so you aren't chasing your tail due too a poor aftermarket interpretation.