Any input before I try the steering rack removal??? Is there any certain hose I can't get to with the steering rack removed since I have the "updated" vac routing? Any hints or tips on removing the rack? Thanks

 

Any ideas on the u joint connection inside at the firewall?? Do I grind down a Allen key to loosen the u joint bolt? I have the air suspension dropped. Do I only have the 2 large bolts going "up" fastening it to the chassis?

 

....Hello A.J. (that's better)...is that one end of the steering rack in your picture...I saw a u-tube some while back on subject...I'll try to locate...JimB

 

Wow it's tight in here! lol I'm stuck... I did grind down a Allen key and got the inside u join removed, & grommett, got both inspection and heat shields from inside the wheel well, got the 2 bigger bolts dropped.... and something is hanging up on the drivers side?? What am I missing? Is there anything coming down from the cowl/scuttle area??

 

Hello AJ,
I am not sure by your PM if you found the 3rd bolt or not, here are some pictures showing the 2 long bolts and the 1 shorter bolt.

 

Also PLEASE rotate your pictures prior to posting, they are either sideways or upside down......

 

...Hello Johnny...you are a lifesaver...I have been trying to figure out the "steering strut" and "air suspension systems"..have looked at a number of U-tubes on various cars...thought they would be roughly similar and perhaps they are...not having first hand experience I find the information shared on this site very valuable...
A.J. has jumped in with both feet...got to give him props for that...yes it would help if his good pictures were right side up...
....To A.J....I don't envy your dilemma...Swiflbt23, has lots of experience as a Bentley tech...he says the bulkhead leak is perhaps the most common one, but may not be the only one (some require r/r motor)...has your smoke test identified all leaks...probably best guarantee would be to pull and redo all (if you intend to keep car)...you have the set up ready to go...but pulling engine a major challenge...looking forward to your decision...JimB

 

[img]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6speedonline.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/80-
Dr side
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The rack is out!! What a chore, that last bolt took about 2 hours! So far I would say I have about 6-7 hr into it. Wow I can actually touch the cracked vac line. I'm going to gather the parts and repair what I can see. Then I'm going to do another smoke test.

 

....A.J...outstanding...you sure don't waste any time...getting that steering rack out looks like a bear...your pictures are very valuable to all on this site...is it at all possible to get more light on subject when taking pictures...it would also add considerably if you could briefly describe the procedure of rack removal...is all work and extraction of rackJimB done from driver wheel well...JimB

 

....Hello A.J. Monday March 27 2017
You probably already got this information...but just for the record and others here on forum...The single use hose clamps are Oetiker...they are cheaper and safer than the stainless screw on hose clamps we are familiar with...these Oetikers are only about 50 cent each and once put on correct they are permanent and immune to vibration loosening...they are harder to take off than screw type, but easy once you get procedure (look on u-tube)
To install you don't have to buy special tool...a nipper plier tool you already have will work fine....
A.J. on the steering rack...could you briefly run down the procedure for removal...not all details just brief description...we can all use the information...thanks JimB

 

....Hello Johnny/ZaOs....A.J. is up to his ears on his project so don't blame him for no update...
....On the Steering Rack removal...the removal has been stated as a necessary short cut to replacing one of most common vac hose leaks on later CGT...what major components have to be removed to pull Steering Rack...in looking at AJ's pictures with no frame of reference it appears all is done from drivers wheel well and that air strut is removed...could you give brief idea how you would do it...and can it be done with car on regular floor jacks...JimB

 

Sorry for no recent updates, but the car has been finished and has been running Flawless for a while now! No check eng light! Amazing smooth idle. I have a few more pics I will also just add in the next few posts. Maybe I or someone can copy them over cleanly to a new thread as a sticky? Since it seems to be a running theme. Here is my very brief run down. Legally speaking. This just for information purposes from my experience. Consult a professional. And proceed at your own risk! Lol.
Now let me start off by saying I understand why there's very little information out there about this car especially repairs on older cars . And I can totally see why this would not be a Bentley approved method of repair for one of their technicians. There's was a lot of cramped quarters that would be much easier to get to with the engine out... And let me say if my Bentley was new under warranty and I just paid $150k+ on my car I would want things done in the upmost exacting way shall we say... but my personal beliefs is these cars and most exotics/ performance speciality cars have a life under the care of enthusiast after they have aged and came down to the price of a new SUV. I have owned and repaired Tons of vehicles mostly unique and custom ones. Everything from this Bentley to a Ferrari 360, several turbo Supras, several Porsche's (new & vintage) a heavily modified Audi TT, so I feel comfortable making these type of "improvements / repairs" to factory parts that fail such as our vac lines. I personally believe these repairs are superior to the factory tubes. And I will post a couple of pics of how I would "Repair" the split ends possibly the next one I come across.

 

Here's the procedure in a nut shell
1. you gotta have a lift, I moved the car up and down so many times to get into the spot my body had to be in to reach stuff..
2. Once the car is up in the air secured on your lift properly, I would ahead and disconnect the batteries .Start by removing the wheels obviously in the inner fender wells remove the plastic cowling and Windshild wipers and all engine covers. 3
3. Make sure your steering wheel is straight! Just makes things easier...
4. Drop both front air struts. There is a airline on the side, And a wiring harness coming out of the top. The harness disconnects from under the cowling. There's 3 double square Vw bolts on top and a bolt for the bottom. I replaced them Btw! You have to unbolt and slightly move the coolant reservoir on the passenger side. There's also a long through bolt that holds the top of the hub assembly to the suspension. I wire tied up the suspension so it didn't stress the Cv shafts with the weight of the hub hanging off of it... inspect your cv boots and shafts throughly... now the time if they are needed.
4. Remove the inspection plates from the in we fender area for the steering rack several 10mm bolts. You can see!!! Remove tie rod ends.
5. Drop the steering rack. Break loose but don't remove the paasenger bolt first (the easy of the 3 bolts! . This keeps that side of the rack from dropping and binding while loosinging the dr side. Then from the dr side reach up and feel for the inner bolt. You can't see it without a inspection mirror they are all 19mm. I had to use several different short extensions and tape to get the length correct as I was removing the bolt it was a bear. Then the last bolt which you can see.

 

5A Oops! disconnect the steering column... push out the rubber seal and remove the Allen bolt from inside. 6mm if I remember correctly. My steering shaft went on only one way. So it had that flat spot in the shatmft. Someone else told me they are splined and to mark the position prior to removing the bolt which is a good policy anyway... I had to grind down a Allen key and lay on my back in the floorboard it's pain literally ...

5B disconnect the connector on the steering rack it has a spring loaded end you push in on with a small screwdriver... and then it easily removes do not pry!

6. I removed the rack with the heat shields installed but you have to watch and have assistance from the other side. The heat shields do clip in so you can slide them out separately but watch the clips if they fall they might go to the abyss where you can't reach them... I actually had to reposition the shields after I put the rack back in so it's possible... FYI... you can also get to the forward o2 sensors this way I believe....

Now your rack is out and you can do a smoke test and see where you have problems

 

Repairing the hoses themselves !
I replaced the smaller hoses with 1/4 brake lines where it made sense. Then for the larger hoses I have notice it's the "outer" style of vac hose ends that fail. Not the ones with a metal federal and rubber hose clamped on.... so like in the fender well at the reservoir tank I simply cut off the split & end made a copper ferral to from 3/8 " pipe which is the same ID of the plastic hose. Then I simply made a short rubber connection hose just like the other factory connections. Easy and simple and coming from other Audi's that also have vac issues many of their connections are this way and this a accepted "repair" method on other forums and boards. Now I don't think I would do that if I had the transmission mounted version I would still use the metal lines in that area where heat is a issue. But in the fenderwell this is easy to get to and I believe a great and simple way to to repair certain hoses. You make your own call on what you feel is better.