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06 Gt with split vac hose issues. Gonna pull eng & Repair any input??

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06 Gt with split vac hose issues. Gonna pull eng & Repair any input??

 
  #46  
Old 02-15-2019, 07:45 PM
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Your right the rack bolts test a personsobs sanity or lack of it
 
  #47  
Old 02-16-2019, 09:58 AM
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Word to those wiser, to make vacuum line repair "easier" use copper nickel brake lines, much easier to form. However, if one likes to be mentally, physically and psychologically challenged use the steel lines.

Regrettably on 04 's there are two 8 mm lines that run on the left side of the engine to the turbo solenoid controls above the transmission that become fragile and leak. They are close to the block and run through the abyss. Their fragility is revealed at metal contact ends. There are little brass ferrules inside some of the lines that go into rubber hose fittings. These brass ferrules cause the lines to crack. Of course there are the pressed metal to plastic connections with no clamps that also crack. Replacing the whole line is better than splicing. The plastic lines are degraded to the point that heat and vibration will fracture the material. Bend a piece what happens, snap. When new they would kink.

Agreed and encouraged, smoke test from many different spots. There is also a vacuum connection behind the steering fluid reservoir to check. An inspection camera can be fished down the back of the engine from on top to check the junction above the transmission.
 
  #48  
Old 03-14-2019, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Adrenalinejunky View Post
So I haven't had the car that long but is my believe the previous owner did not know about the issue. 2006 Bentley Continental GT approx 26,000 miles! So after a long hunt I decided to purchase this car because of it being super clean, clearly kept in a garage it's life, clean Carfax/service history no paint work,and it was a 06 that Should Not have splitting hose issue.... Wrong! starting I n the middle of fall time I first noticed that I pulled the car out of the garage and let it run while locked up the home occasionally it idled a touch strange. No check eng light and no other issues running. I Initially brushed it off as bad gas from a recent road trip. Then I thought it might be a possible battery issue so I swapped and put in brand-new batteries with a tender, then cane the dreaded check engine light. I purchased a rosstech cable and started down the rabbit hole. I replace both temperature senders with VW OE as one was slightly suspicious and they were inexpnsive, & coming from Audi cars I know they failrandomly and can cause odd things. But that wasent the issue. I kept getting misfire and lean bank codes for bank 1 and 1-6 cylinders. But the car ran good & it was rare for it to stumble at idle, no check engine lights. But I still knew something just wasent right. So I decided to do a smoke test. Right off the bat I knew where this was going. After pulling the driver side wheel and inner fender to gain access to the vacuum pump and reservoir I went to go pull the mainline and it was split at the end connecting to the T at the reservoir! Why do you immediate thought was cool I found it let's hope nothing else is got cracks !! Yeah right!! I almost immediately found2 more cracks at the larger plastic hoses that lead to the manifold! Then smoke coming from behind the steering rack on the passenger side! I got a inspection mirror in there and can see the hex nut looking T and the hard plastic 3/16~ line was split by at least a inch! It came off as soon as I touched it. So it looks like my low miles super clean car I paid a little extra for wasent the car I was hoping for... But she is gonna be the car!! Lol
So engine out time! I needs lift!! So I ordered my lift and I'm picking it up today. Gonna install it over the next couple of days. Then it's time to drop the engine. I have read over johnnys gt rebuild and Zoas "Pulleed my engine" thread.
I have done engine work and removals before it's just been a while lol.

The Plan... Pull the engine and replace all plastic hard lines with steel and rubber ends. Like John did on the YouTube videos. John or anybody that has pulled one before, if your out there can I pick your brain for a few minutes over the phone?? Lol
I am Not going to be changing the starter. I know it's a risk, but with the low miles and being well kept I believe it's a worthwhile risk. I think I'm going to Change the O2 sensors though. Input??

Questions I have...
Where is the best place to get O2 sensors? Specifically please. What should I be looking for as far as OE equivalent. Please give suggestions.

Where do I get the "cloth rubber hoses" and what sizes so I can order them now... for my connection ends? Where do I get the factory style crimp clamps? Amazon one I initially see saw BMW...
those that have done this any odd tools? I have the double square bit set already from my Audi days..
Oil dipstick tube??
Anything else while I have the engine out??
Yes I'm going to photo and document the repair. Hopefully it will help someone out later

that at is amazing that there are some ppl that are willingly taking engines out of their Bentley’s in their garages. Just blowing my mind.
I definitely have a vacuum leak, every time I touch brake pedal I hear pump go on. And it idles ruff in the morning during warm up (seems to run fine as it hits 200f) And triggers check engine light some time. My question is... How did u perform a smoke test. What equipment did u use. Where did u attached it to. Can u explain the process. Thank you.
 
  #49  
Old 03-15-2019, 07:29 AM
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Bottom line on a 2005 replace all the vacuum lines. There's a series of lines behind the steering rack that control the EVAP system and the power brake assist. Then there are the two 8 mm lines that run down the back of the engine to the infamous above the transmission vacuum lines. Only replacing the one that's currently leaking will lead to pulling the engine again. Than again to fix the next one that's leaking and to pull it for the next one that's leaking etc. How much is in your wallet???

By the way one vacuum leak test is if the pump runs every time pressing the brakes. Another indication is while going up a hill the pump cycles.

Go back to archival postings there are articles on how to do the vacuum smoke test. Honestly the next step is to start looking for an independent shop to replace the vacuum lines with metal.
 

Last edited by 1eapplebaum; 03-15-2019 at 07:35 AM.
  #50  
Old 03-15-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Adler2501 View Post
My question is... How did u perform a smoke test. What equipment did u use. Where did u attached it to. Can u explain the process. Thank you.








 
 


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