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Overheating and no heat, Bentley Flying Spur

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Overheating and no heat, Bentley Flying Spur

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Old 12-08-2018, 03:11 PM
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Overheating and no heat, Bentley Flying Spur

Hi everyone, the car is a 2006 Bentley Flying Spur with 90k miles. Here is a quick rundown of events leading up to this: In August the water pump was sweating coolant, indy decided to change the pump and gasket before it got worse. Fast forward to November, the car started to creep above the 200*F, as expected the fans would kick in and move the gauge back to 200. At idle the fans would go pretty loud but as I drove it would be fine.

Now here is the current issue, 2 days ago the car randomly stopped blowing heat, AC works fine just no heat. The indy bled the coolant thinking maybe there was air in the system, but still nothing. On the drive home the car went well past 200*F and I turned the car off to cool down then got it home once it went back to operating temperature. Also I noticed if I turn the fans off on the heater and wait 2-3 minutes, once I turn it back on it will blow heat for about 5-10 seconds then become cold again.

The indy is suspecting a bad thermostat. Any ideas before I send her to the dealer? Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 12-08-2018, 06:30 PM
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Hello Ssonss,
I am going to go with it is the thermostat also, you most likely have one that is stuck partially open, meaning more closed then open, causing the higher then normal temps at the block and the fans to go full blast cooling the what most likely is not up to normal operating temp coolant in the radiator to flow to the heater cores (there are 2), it is a screwy system as in why the fans run full blast, it is just a safety measure, my 05 W12 A8L had a bad coolant temp sensor back about seven years ago, it would give the big red temp sign in the DIS, and the temp gauge would be on it's way up to normal 12 o'clock positions, then full to C, the fans would go jet speed, so I changed that sensor and all was fine for a while, then at the end of last winter it started again, I was about to do the sensor again but I instead cleared the code and all was fine, and I put the Torque OBD app on my phone for easy clearing of the code if it popped up again, yes I was putting it off as it was fine this past spring, summer, and fall, now fast forward to right right now I come to realize (what I had already known and put off) that I have a fully stuck open thermostat which for the summer months was fine, never got hot, and no warnings, but now have the big red temp warning from time to time, BUT of most importance is the engine temp will not get up to the proper operating temp, and even though it is below op temp the fans will come on making it even colder, therefore no heat, or very little when stopped and idling, forget about driving at highway speeds, I did find that if I drive in 3rd or 4th gear instead of 5th and 6th I get heat, hence it points to a wide open thermostat for me.

See link, also the thermo is not available separately, you most buy the whole housing with the heater element and thermo as one, even though the thermostat is removable from the housing as I showed in the link... the 04's to sometime in 07 have the heater element, the later 07 block I tore down did not have the heater, I have a few very low mileage 05-06 used pieces if interested.

Johnny aka Giovanni.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ature-2928224/



Originally Posted by ssonss1 View Post
Hi everyone, the car is a 2006 Bentley Flying Spur with 90k miles. Here is a quick rundown of events leading up to this: In August the water pump was sweating coolant, indy decided to change the pump and gasket before it got worse. Fast forward to November, the car started to creep above the 200*F, as expected the fans would kick in and move the gauge back to 200. At idle the fans would go pretty loud but as I drove it would be fine.

Now here is the current issue, 2 days ago the car randomly stopped blowing heat, AC works fine just no heat. The indy bled the coolant thinking maybe there was air in the system, but still nothing. On the drive home the car went well past 200*F and I turned the car off to cool down then got it home once it went back to operating temperature. Also I noticed if I turn the fans off on the heater and wait 2-3 minutes, once I turn it back on it will blow heat for about 5-10 seconds then become cold again.

The indy is suspecting a bad thermostat. Any ideas before I send her to the dealer? Thanks
 
  #3  
Old 12-09-2018, 06:38 PM
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I wouldn't discard the possible failure of the auxiliary cooling pump. This pump is electrical and is located in front of the front left wheel. If you take out the inner fender wheel arch liner panel you will be able to access the pump.
Switch on the ignition and grab the pump with one hand. If it is working you will be able to feel it.
Poor heater efficiency when the car is idling or moving slow in traffic is often due to this pump not running as it should. I wouldn't go into the thermostat possibility before I was able to rule out this pump.
After all it is indeed an easy check that will take you less than half hour.
 
  #4  
Old Yesterday, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Hotspur GT View Post
Hello Ssonss,
I am going to go with it is the thermostat also, you most likely have one that is stuck partially open, meaning more closed then open, causing the higher then normal temps at the block and the fans to go full blast cooling the what most likely is not up to normal operating temp coolant in the radiator to flow to the heater cores (there are 2), it is a screwy system as in why the fans run full blast, it is just a safety measure, my 05 W12 A8L had a bad coolant temp sensor back about seven years ago, it would give the big red temp sign in the DIS, and the temp gauge would be on it's way up to normal 12 o'clock positions, then full to C, the fans would go jet speed, so I changed that sensor and all was fine for a while, then at the end of last winter it started again, I was about to do the sensor again but I instead cleared the code and all was fine, and I put the Torque OBD app on my phone for easy clearing of the code if it popped up again, yes I was putting it off as it was fine this past spring, summer, and fall, now fast forward to right right now I come to realize (what I had already known and put off) that I have a fully stuck open thermostat which for the summer months was fine, never got hot, and no warnings, but now have the big red temp warning from time to time, BUT of most importance is the engine temp will not get up to the proper operating temp, and even though it is below op temp the fans will come on making it even colder, therefore no heat, or very little when stopped and idling, forget about driving at highway speeds, I did find that if I drive in 3rd or 4th gear instead of 5th and 6th I get heat, hence it points to a wide open thermostat for me.

See link, also the thermo is not available separately, you most buy the whole housing with the heater element and thermo as one, even though the thermostat is removable from the housing as I showed in the link... the 04's to sometime in 07 have the heater element, the later 07 block I tore down did not have the heater, I have a few very low mileage 05-06 used pieces if interested.

Johnny aka Giovanni.

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ature-2928224/
Thank you for the reply, I will shoot you a dm

Originally Posted by sspeeder View Post
I wouldn't discard the possible failure of the auxiliary cooling pump. This pump is electrical and is located in front of the front left wheel. If you take out the inner fender wheel arch liner panel you will be able to access the pump.
Switch on the ignition and grab the pump with one hand. If it is working you will be able to feel it.
Poor heater efficiency when the car is idling or moving slow in traffic is often due to this pump not running as it should. I wouldn't go into the thermostat possibility before I was able to rule out this pump.
After all it is indeed an easy check that will take you less than half hour.
Thank you, will definitely have this checked out.
 
  #5  
Old Yesterday, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sspeeder View Post
I wouldn't discard the possible failure of the auxiliary cooling pump. This pump is electrical and is located in front of the front left wheel. If you take out the inner fender wheel arch liner panel you will be able to access the pump.
Switch on the ignition and grab the pump with one hand. If it is working you will be able to feel it.
Poor heater efficiency when the car is idling or moving slow in traffic is often due to this pump not running as it should. I wouldn't go into the thermostat possibility before I was able to rule out this pump.
After all it is indeed an easy check that will take you less than half hour.
Hello sspedder,
Unless I am missing something, and I may be, (I will look tonight) there is no auxiliary water pump in the left hand wheel house under the liner, the pump located there is the vacuum pump for the vacuum circuit when on boost, the auxiliary pump that you may be thinking of is located as pictured over the transmission in two different locations for the Spur VS. GT, with the GT being at the far end of the trans, while the Spur has it located mid-way of trans, also, this auxiliary pump is for the cooling of the turbo chargers, and to date I have not heard of one failing, at least not on here.

Johnny

...


 

Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Yesterday at 02:55 PM. Reason: add pics
  #6  
Old Yesterday, 04:26 PM
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Hello Johnny

Efectively these vehicles do have a turbo cooling pump (after run) that is very similar to the auxiliary cooling pump I am talking about.
n fact it is they even have both the same part number, The auxiliary cooling pump I am talking about is 3W0965561 and the after run pump you mentioned is part number 3W0965561C
I attach pictures of them both.
 

Last edited by sspeeder; Yesterday at 04:31 PM. Reason: don't see my attachments
  #7  
Old Yesterday, 04:29 PM
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I stand corrected, I think...
This does appear to be as sspeeder stated, so that makes two electric coolant pumps so far.
Blue GT pic is of when Zaos did his engine pull.

Johnny

.



 
  #8  
Old Yesterday, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by sspeeder View Post
Hello Johnny

Efectively these vehicles do have a turbo cooling pump (after run) that is very similar to the auxiliary cooling pump I am talking about.
n fact it is they even have both the same part number, The auxiliary cooling pump I am talking about is 3W0965561 and the after run pump you mentioned is part number 3W0965561C
I attach pictures of them both.
Thank you sspeeder, I will definitely verify the operation of both before I complete my rebuild.

Johnny
 
  #9  
Old Yesterday, 04:46 PM
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By the way Johnny, I do agree with you when you say that you don't know of any failing. In fact they are very reliable considering that these electric pumps operate all the time from the moment you switch on your ignition. However there is history of cases of failure with similar results to what ssonss1 described above. And if this pump has failed, in his case is a lot simpler and less expensive repair
 
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