Buying first Bentley (and only second used car ever) next week - what to look out for
#1
Buying first Bentley (and only second used car ever) next week - what to look out for
Hey all, been a long time dreamer but never in right place with the right financial situation until now. I've wanted a bentley for some time but finally pulling the trigger now.
I live in the SW suburbs of Chicago (Downer's Grove area) and have found 3 2013 convertible GTs at 3 different dealers that I like. All in the $100k price range, all generally meeting my aesthetic needs. 2 V8, 1 V12. all around 20k to 30k miles.
One dealer is "authorized" but only has used stock and is offering CPO, one is a generic used dealer that can't provide CPO, and the last one is an authorized dealer who sells both new and used, and will make the car CPO if I pay $9,500.
Have only gone to the last dealer on the list so far. They want $5,000 more than what carguru says is a "fair" price, so seems overpriced. Especially when lacking CPO without an additional fee. They also said my tradein was worth $6,000 less than what Carguru says is the trade in price for my car (thought to be fair, the $6k goes away if you don't enter the zip code into the value estimator and they're offering me flat trade).
So to my questions:
What should I look for specifically that I want the dealer to do?
Should I demand new tires / brakes? Dealer said brakes with 27,000 miles on the odo are totally fine. Feels unlikely.
Should I demand more on trade / less on price / that they toss in CPO ($9,500)? I haven't negotiated anything with them at all at this point.
There was a problem with the convertible top, which they will fix, but that pushes me even more to getting the CPO and should also be easier to negotiate why they should pay for it
Anything on 2013 GTs that is a well known problem that I should make sure get addressed before I buy?
Any views on whether to even bother with the non-authorized dealerships? Feels a little sleazy to me / fly by night in this price range but I'm new to the used game so don't know any better.
I assume I should check out the other dealers even though I actually prefer the car at this dealer the most, if for no other reason than to get a second opinion on my trade in value...
Thank you in advance!!
I live in the SW suburbs of Chicago (Downer's Grove area) and have found 3 2013 convertible GTs at 3 different dealers that I like. All in the $100k price range, all generally meeting my aesthetic needs. 2 V8, 1 V12. all around 20k to 30k miles.
One dealer is "authorized" but only has used stock and is offering CPO, one is a generic used dealer that can't provide CPO, and the last one is an authorized dealer who sells both new and used, and will make the car CPO if I pay $9,500.
Have only gone to the last dealer on the list so far. They want $5,000 more than what carguru says is a "fair" price, so seems overpriced. Especially when lacking CPO without an additional fee. They also said my tradein was worth $6,000 less than what Carguru says is the trade in price for my car (thought to be fair, the $6k goes away if you don't enter the zip code into the value estimator and they're offering me flat trade).
So to my questions:
What should I look for specifically that I want the dealer to do?
Should I demand new tires / brakes? Dealer said brakes with 27,000 miles on the odo are totally fine. Feels unlikely.
Should I demand more on trade / less on price / that they toss in CPO ($9,500)? I haven't negotiated anything with them at all at this point.
There was a problem with the convertible top, which they will fix, but that pushes me even more to getting the CPO and should also be easier to negotiate why they should pay for it
Anything on 2013 GTs that is a well known problem that I should make sure get addressed before I buy?
Any views on whether to even bother with the non-authorized dealerships? Feels a little sleazy to me / fly by night in this price range but I'm new to the used game so don't know any better.
I assume I should check out the other dealers even though I actually prefer the car at this dealer the most, if for no other reason than to get a second opinion on my trade in value...
Thank you in advance!!
#2
If I were in your position, I would go with the CPO depending on how long it’s for and what all it’s covering. Rather have piece of mind then my mind in pieces. Any pictures from the ads or website we can see them at?
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 08-09-2019 at 06:33 PM.
#4
This might sound like a pain, however looking outside of your area for a similar car will probably save you money. Shipping from most areas is plus or minus $1,000. Factor in a potential savings of $10,000 which is possible. Look in areas where the Bentley is more common. The dealers tend to be more competitive. The farther south you go the more Bentleys there are.
The type of tires used on the Bentley are specific. Not surprising that year round tires aren't available. Myself coming from downtown Chicago wouldn't dream of driving a Bentley in the winter. The extreme amount of salt used and the complications that ensue, just not worth the risk. These cars have enough problems with rain water Ingress affecting the computer modules.
The type of tires used on the Bentley are specific. Not surprising that year round tires aren't available. Myself coming from downtown Chicago wouldn't dream of driving a Bentley in the winter. The extreme amount of salt used and the complications that ensue, just not worth the risk. These cars have enough problems with rain water Ingress affecting the computer modules.
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; 07-09-2019 at 08:08 AM.
#5
This might sound like a pain, however looking outside of your area for a similar car will probably save you money. Shipping from most areas is plus or minus $1,000. Factor in a potential savings of $10,000 which is possible. Look in areas where the Bentley is more common. The dealers tend to be more competitive. The farther south you go the more Bentley there are.
The type of tires used on the Bentley are specific. Not surprising that year round tires aren't available. Myself coming from downtown Chicago wouldn't dream of driving a Bentley in the winter. The extreme amount of salt used and the complications that ensue, just not worth the risk. These cars have enough problems with rain water Ingress affecting the computer modules.
The type of tires used on the Bentley are specific. Not surprising that year round tires aren't available. Myself coming from downtown Chicago wouldn't dream of driving a Bentley in the winter. The extreme amount of salt used and the complications that ensue, just not worth the risk. These cars have enough problems with rain water Ingress affecting the computer modules.
See if whomever have some sort of service records for whichever car you set your eye on. Also try to get both keys or have them give you a new set ( you doing it will set you back about $700-$900).
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 07-09-2019 at 06:57 AM.
#6
It's difficult to advise someone else how to negotiate, but simply, you're at round one on a car you like. These cars don't fly off the market. Finding a buyer is a challenge. Use that to your advantage if this is your car. Best psychological buyer's tactic is don't lose your "cool"; don't show too much excitement. In fact, let them know you're looking at a couple of other examples you really like (even more than this car). And the hardest advice....disappear for a few days. See how nervous they get. There is a subtle difference between cool and cold. Don't be cold, just a serious shopper with options.
In the second/third rounds you should work a reduction on their asking price, then negotiate your trade in price. Your option on the trade in is you'll sell it yourself (depending on what it is). But, if you're not comfortable selling a used car on your own, that one might backfire.
Downer's Grove...wow...a blast from my ancient past. Bought my first home in Hinsdale.
Good luck!
In the second/third rounds you should work a reduction on their asking price, then negotiate your trade in price. Your option on the trade in is you'll sell it yourself (depending on what it is). But, if you're not comfortable selling a used car on your own, that one might backfire.
Downer's Grove...wow...a blast from my ancient past. Bought my first home in Hinsdale.
Good luck!
#7
is one of the sellers bentley northbrook? its been a few years but larry balkin ia manager and a good guy. he arranged a tour for me of the factory in crewe
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#10
Search the whole country. When I bought my GT Speed it came from Aston Martin Washington DC. My Flying Spur came from the Mercedes dealer in Daytona Beach. Searching the country you should be able to find a car with the specs,color,and price you like. Have fun searching they are all perfect in your minds eye. Don’t be afraid to travel to find that perfect car.
#11
First 9000 for CPO is a blatant ripoff. It's about 5K for 1 year and 9K for 2 year extended warranty. Each dealer has a base amount then can markup cpo. 27K miles is high. Maybe I missed it but you were looking for coupe or Convertible. What packages Mulliner package Naim etc? A W12 more maintenance but quicker and heavier car. V8 better noise less maintenance overall. Personally I would consider waiting as the new GTs are landing soon September / October so people have been trading in old cars for new deliveries further pushing down prices. My suggestion is stick to cargurus and assume the cargurus pricing doesn't include the 5K for CPO. A lot of dealers wouldn't come close to the discount I got from my dealer and told me it wasn't possible. Target cars from cargurus on the lot for a longer period of time. The price increase from 13-15 relatively isn't much. Also MSRP is a good point to compare for similar cars. Optional paint alone on the car I found was 7K. Also find a good independent mechanic in your area and get a proper PPI even if it's from a dealer. I have seen dealers not provide info about repainted bumpers or replacement ones as cars of this value people will pay cash to cover small accidents especially Florida. Put the vin in my Carfax of the car to get the average trade in and retail value of the car. First rule of negotiating never talk about a trade until dealer locks in a agreed sales price otherwise they can over allow your trade to make it look like a good deal with a higher MSRP. Get the trade in valued atleast at two other dealers including the brand itself ie honda for honda. Don't show dealer my Carfax numbers. Get financing before the deal from a credit union or woodside credit if you want some more payments at higher interest but quicker approval on large loans. Antonio at Woodside has been good so far. Going into to negotiations first make a list of checks ie has car been touched up. What were the reconditioned items, what is the dealership policy on third party inspections etc. Current tire tread depth if wheels were refinished etc. Then once all answers are good mention you have financing get a price agreed then add the trade and have them match other dealers trade in value.
#12
These cars don't come with all seasons and I wouldn't recommend them. Get a set of winter and summer tires. The cars great in the snow.
#13
Auto Gallery Chicago
Star Motor Sales
Nobody else had something I liked in the condition/price range I was looking in.
#14
So, stupid question - how do you get your tires to the shop to have them switched out each season? I suspect the answer is "pay someone a bunch of money to do it or have someone drive the tires in a separate car". Neither are ideal but ...
#15
First 9000 for CPO is a blatant ripoff. It's about 5K for 1 year and 9K for 2 year extended warranty. Each dealer has a base amount then can markup cpo. 27K miles is high. Maybe I missed it but you were looking for coupe or Convertible. What packages Mulliner package Naim etc? A W12 more maintenance but quicker and heavier car. V8 better noise less maintenance overall. Personally I would consider waiting as the new GTs are landing soon September / October so people have been trading in old cars for new deliveries further pushing down prices. My suggestion is stick to cargurus and assume the cargurus pricing doesn't include the 5K for CPO. A lot of dealers wouldn't come close to the discount I got from my dealer and told me it wasn't possible. Target cars from cargurus on the lot for a longer period of time. The price increase from 13-15 relatively isn't much. Also MSRP is a good point to compare for similar cars. Optional paint alone on the car I found was 7K. Also find a good independent mechanic in your area and get a proper PPI even if it's from a dealer. I have seen dealers not provide info about repainted bumpers or replacement ones as cars of this value people will pay cash to cover small accidents especially Florida. Put the vin in my Carfax of the car to get the average trade in and retail value of the car. First rule of negotiating never talk about a trade until dealer locks in a agreed sales price otherwise they can over allow your trade to make it look like a good deal with a higher MSRP. Get the trade in valued atleast at two other dealers including the brand itself ie honda for honda. Don't show dealer my Carfax numbers. Get financing before the deal from a credit union or woodside credit if you want some more payments at higher interest but quicker approval on large loans. Antonio at Woodside has been good so far. Going into to negotiations first make a list of checks ie has car been touched up. What were the reconditioned items, what is the dealership policy on third party inspections etc. Current tire tread depth if wheels were refinished etc. Then once all answers are good mention you have financing get a price agreed then add the trade and have them match other dealers trade in value.