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@1eapplebaum today the car running perfect... I check all the wiring seem like it all good .. I just want to double checking
the red area is the place I'm hearing the hissing noise...
can I actuataion the Vacuum pump so I can check for the issue?
That's exactly where I was recommending you check. Spray starter fluid in that area and listen for a change in engine performance while engine is idling. Just spray a little bit here and there.
The upper circled area is the HVAC. You may have to remove the plastic scuttle below the windshield wipers to investigate that.
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; Aug 25, 2019 at 11:49 AM.
Yes the vacuum pump can be activated in vcds output test. I don't remember the specific address that the vacuum pump is found in. In any event experiment with the output tests in various addresses. Do not perform the output test for the airbags however. When performing output test do each one sequentially as it comes up in the computer. To start an output test sequence sometimes you have to start the car and shut it off.
so that mean now I understand why my car only rich at idle..
if my car running rich all the times it should set the fault code : P0175 Fuel System too rich at bank 2...
here is P2190 bank 2 too rich at idle... so.. I guess maybe the plug is my issue ? my spark plug is not the Original NGK one..
it something weirg the previous owner put in.
& one more question is PCV valve can cause that issue also?
Hi NG,
Yes, a PCV leak can cause a P2190 because it is an air leak. PCV air is returned to the intake manifold and it is air volume accounted for in the measurement (it was added when the engineers calculate/calibrate the MAF). If the PCV is damaged leaking, then this air is missing from the total air volume calculation. The ECU still fuels to what should be there in terms of air volume.
If you change the spark plugs, would you kindly post the brand name and the number on the spark plugs in the engine now? If someone put a spark plug that was 2 or 3 levels a cold plug, those plugs would have a difficult time firing at cold idle. It does not explain why you are not receiving a rich idle on bank 1 unless those spark plugs are different in bank 2.
This is an example of what makes online diagnosis difficult as the first assumption I make is everything like wiring is in good order, no water damage, and all components are correct parts that should be in the car.
until today.. I can confirm I have wiring issue some where..
I keep getting that weirg code
It is a difficult task to investigate wiring issues on this car as harnesses often disappear into places that are inaccessible. I hope you do report back on what brand and part no the spark plugs are when you get to the point of changing them. I am very curious what you find!
Here is the code I got..
do u think I should run another wire? or any common place for short to GND on this car?
NG,
Numerous counts of:
Implausible signal
Signal too high
IAT signal too high
I know we've been over and over the MAF on bank 2. Some of these failures COULD point to a wiring issue or could point to a sensor failure, or maybe both of these. I know you have swapped out the MAF on bank 2 with a known good MAF. If it is the same list of failures with a different MAF, wiring would be suspect.
Both the IAT and the air volume frequency signalling are all in the Bank 2 MAF.
VAG engine management system uses the term "implausible signal" often. Implausible signal is a nebulous term. It means the ECU was expecting a certain input or an input within a certain range and the signal failed to meet expectations.
So, Implausible signal could mean a signal was sent but too high or too low out of reasonable range or it could be no signal at all.
Most of the time if you know the wiring is good, implausible signal points to a failed sensor. However, if you are unsure of the integrity of the wiring, you also must add that to your diagnosis.
One small example related to intake charge - at any given RPM the ECU is receiving signals that should all be within an expected range from
Throttle position (Commanded throttle and relative throttle positions although the ECU sets relative)
TPS signal (which is what the ECU uses to set relative throttle)
MAP signal
MAF signal (including ambient intake air temperature)
O2 signal (results of AFR from previous combustion cycle)
ECT - Throughout the operating range
So, let's say at 550 RPM commanded (idle), the MAF signal should be in a known range, TPS too, MAP too, ECT too, IAT is a variable the ECU uses to modify timing, and O2 signal in an expected range. If any one of these sensors is sending a signal too high or low or no signal at all, the appropriate P-Code is set for the signal the ECU did not like.
Also, not to complicate it but because certain signals can drift, some tolerance is built into failures. These are called "counts". So for example, misfires must read a certain programmed count before the ECU will set a P-03xx.
This is just a suggestion guys, there's a lot mentioned re wiring getting damaged either by water or heat, I use silicon on the wiring, plugs and all the rubbers & gaiters keeps it soft & water resistant stops it from cracking, been doing this for years on all cars, its my dads old trick being a leather merchant kept the leather soft ... I even spray it on my shoes & boots keeps the water off & the leather soft so it don't crack ...
I want to offer something for you to try for free. It is what we call a "Long Shot", but it is actually something I've mentioned in earlier posts about air leaks (vacuum leak at the manifold) past the MAF measurement.
You will need a torque wrench that can accomplish 10Nm and a torx drive bit (T30, I think from memory). Please look at the following diagram. I've circled 8 intake manifold bolts. Please torque tighten these 8 bolts to 10Nm in the pattern I have shown. Start with bolt #1, proceed to bolt # 8.
After completing this please report back if ANY bolts actually turned (bolts that were loose). If so, post the number of the bolt(s) that moved (turned) at 10Nm.
As said, this might not accomplish anything. But, since you mentioned someone might have changed spark plugs, this is a test of their work:
@BWings I just did as u said and all the bolt seem tight.
Still waiting the Plug and the Intake gasket ... part come from USA take so long.. normally 2-3 week here hizz...
Do u think I should clean up the 2nd injection Valve also?
@Rico.Adams in here I can only buy 3m product... is it equal or I must buy the same as u?
@BWings I just did as u said and all the bolt seem tight.
Still waiting the Plug and the Intake gasket ... part come from USA take so long.. normally 2-3 week here hizz...
Do u think I should clean up the 2nd injection Valve also?
@Rico.Adams in here I can only buy 3m product... is it equal or I must buy the same as u?
Hello N ... No you don't need to buy the same that what you have is good quailty product ...
